I'm a wetworks with a railgun

You could also probably go to a local supermarket or retail store and ask about taking cardboard from them. It doesn't hurt just to ask and you could get it for free. As for foam board, I love that stuff. Yes it isn't as tough as wood or plastic, but I have a lot of it and it also cost me nothing (work perk).



Foam board core for my light rifle. My suggestion is make the template and core first then assemble the outer templates to match the core. I had to start over twice because the templates didn't match up w/ each other. Then the pieces didn't match when I was assembling it.

Corweena said:

If you're doing a sliced cardboard build, you don't need to use fiberglass. You're just making more work and tons of extra sanding for yourself, like both Chernobyl and Sandbagger said. Cardboard with a healthy amount of pva woodglue is PLENTY strong enough to hold everything together and keep it stiff. Like they said, you could do a resin coat on the outside, but its really not needed. Cardboard base ---> craft foam detailing ---> seal the foam ---> paint the prop. That's really all there is to it. No need to overcomplicate it with extra unneeded materials.

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^^^^ this right here. Read it, learn it, love it, stick to it. Don't try to add any unnecessary steps or materials and it will turn out well.

It's frustrating to experienced members when we give you helpful advice on simple, but tried and true, methods, and you completely ignore it and say you are going to do something different. Trying new methods and materials is awesome, and the community loves it, but asking advice, ignoring it, then doing something different anyways is not a great way to go about it. Good luck with your build, though.

FlyinPhil said:

^^^^ this right here. Read it, learn it, love it, stick to it. Don't try to add any unnecessary steps or materials and it will turn out well.

It's frustrating to experienced members when we give you helpful advice on simple, but tried and true, methods, and you completely ignore it and say you are going to do something different. Trying new methods and materials is awesome, and the community loves it, but asking advice, ignoring it, then doing something different anyways is not a great way to go about it. Good luck with your build, though.

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Ditto!

FlyinPhil said:

^^^^ this right here. Read it, learn it, love it, stick to it. Don't try to add any unnecessary steps or materials and it will turn out well.

It's frustrating to experienced members when we give you helpful advice on simple, but tried and true, methods, and you completely ignore it and say you are going to do something different. Trying new methods and materials is awesome, and the community loves it, but asking advice, ignoring it, then doing something different anyways is not a great way to go about it. Good luck with your build, though.

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sorry bout that I was ust wondering about how to make it way stronger...

PEPAKURA TURTLE said:

sorry bout that I was ust wondering about how to make it way stronger...

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No need to be sorry man, I was just being blunt and telling it how it was.

So you would like it strong....that is why I strongly recommended against using drywall on the first page of this thread, as drywall is not strong. Read through Sandbagger's posts in this thread, and you will see he suggested using cardboard and wood glue, and alternating the direction of the corrugation in the cardboard. This is similar to how plywood is made (alternating grain directions) and should add a decent amount of strength. You seem to have your heart set on using fiberglass, so along those lines, I'd recommend adding one or two very lights coats of resin to the outside of the prop to harden and seal it. But don't do this if you use any foams for details. It doesn't harm eva foam, but still retains a rather soft texture and doesn't look all that great (speaking from experience).

Now why does it have to be so strong? My weapons are eva foam with pretty minimal reinforcement, and hold up very well at conventions, look awesome (it's tough being modest), and are light enough to be comfortable carrying around for hours. Certain parts wouldn't hold up super well if they were sat on or thrown around, but they are more than strong enough for my needs.

Also, it's definitely worth it to fork out a little bit of money for good materials. I know we disputed on contact cement a little while back when you told someone that it wasn't good for foam, despite it being one of the best adhesives for foam detailing. You then mentioned that you got yours from the dollar store. Don't get me wrong, I get lots of little items from the dollar store for my cosplay work, but for adhesives, tools, and such, it's worth it to by decent consumer grade products from a large chain store like home depot, Lowes, wal mart, etc. Also don't be afraid to ask other members what brands and products they've had good luck with, that's kinda why we are all here helping each other out!

Now let's see this rail gun get built man! I haven't seen many, and it will be great to follow your progress!

I didnt have time over the weekend to work on this alot, anybe just 15 min or so, and I looked at my master "key", and compared it to the boxes...some of them work, but most won't fit the size measurements...

PEPAKURA TURTLE said:

I didnt have time over the weekend to work on this alot, anybe just 15 min or so, and I looked at my master "key", and compared it to the boxes...some of them work, but most won't fit the size measurements...

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You can always use more than one piece of cardboard for a layer. I doesn't have to be one continuous piece for every layer. I'd just make sure that the outer layers are single pieces for aesthetics.

FlyinPhil said:

You can always use more than one piece of cardboard for a layer. I doesn't have to be one continuous piece for every layer. I'd just make sure that the outer layers are single pieces for aesthetics.

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I am building a prop that is nearly ten metres long, five metres high and three metres high - all out of cardboard. You certainly won't find cardboard that long so just build layers overlapping like bricks do. I'm sure you can build a railgun out of a few small cardboard boxes.

Sandbagger said:

I am building a prop that is nearly ten metres long, five metres high and three metres high - all out of cardboard. You certainly won't find cardboard that long so just build layers overlapping like bricks do. I'm sure you can build a railgun out of a few small cardboard boxes.

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I am slightly intrigued, Sandbagger. May I inquire as to what this gargantuan prop is?

FlyinPhil said:

I am slightly intrigued, Sandbagger. May I inquire as to what this gargantuan prop is?

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Nope.

Secret squirrel until it's finished.

SB

Made quite a few knifes, like more like razors...about 5 out of the blades from Daiso (1.50$ for 10) And put some details on it, nothing much but I will be getting way more done in the winter break if I don't watch anime the whole time.

Sandbagger said:

Nope.

Secret squirrel until it's finished.

SB

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Is it a cardboard jarvis? jk

PEPAKURA TURTLE said:

Made quite a few knifes, like more like razors...about 5 out of the blades from Daiso (1.50$ for 10) And put some details on it, nothing much but I will be getting way more done in the winter break if I don't watch anime the whole time.



Is it a cardboard jarvis? jk

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Have you done any more work?

yeah 'made a few more pieces and designs.. they arnt clean cuts be warned

Lookin good now that your on the right track man! Now just remember that if you take your time to make your cuts clean, it will look waaaay better in the end! My SAW took roughly 60 hours to build, but made sure to make all of my cuts as clean as possible to make the finished product look great.

~Railgun materials lacking thus rusulting in delay or subjsct dropped~...had too much foam around the house and deciding to work on another build...