First build 3d printed

Vrogy · Jan 27, 2016

Straton JD said:
here are some build stages
then 2 stage auto paint (I work at a body shop =] )

A few very good propmakers/costumers have come from auto body shops. Work looks good so far. Maybe take clearer photos, document all steps in your process.

Straton JD · Feb 5, 2016

its a bit unorthodox, but i started a freehand build out of sintra for the chest, felt a little overwelmed by the prospect of pepping one out, and chunking out for 3d printing was getting rediculous

built a duct tape dummy with the help of the girlfriend

started with the top, used dabs of jb weld to hold angles in place, then sanded down to smooth

then built the back

added detail through layering and filler, also added holes for future lighting

hardened back using drywall tape and micro fibre rondo

Ckesner · Feb 5, 2016

Nice, the idea of using drywall mesh is brilliant.

Straton JD · Feb 5, 2016

hardened back

hardened top with fiberglass

connected top and back

the joining gaps i will fill at a later date

hardened the joints with drywall tape and more rondo-micro fibre and started build on the lower arms

realised the chest was a bit long, so measured off an inch and a half to remove

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also did a bit more work on codpiece, also freehand sintra

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Ckesner said:
Nice, the idea of using drywall mesh is brilliant.

thanks =] mostly i dont enjoy working with fiberglass, so i was looking for an alternative that had the stability. I dont like the reek or dry time of resin

MonsterMask · Feb 6, 2016

Straton JD said:
The printer actually didn't run much of a bill, i got a diy kit on ebay for 300$, but you can build one for about 180 if you get all of your parts from china, it still might seem a little steep, but in the first week it paid for itself with sold prints.

And yea got a lot of exp with bondo =] though i used a plastic filler (lord fusior 114LG) as it is sandable in bout 15 min and is softer and nicer to work with than bondo.

a 2 stage paint basically just means that the clear is a separate vehicle, so it has two stages of application: base (the color) and clear (the shine)
2 stage are usually more expensive but give more control as far as quality and color

and I did bake them, I am printing with abs which is workable at about 220 degrees Celsius, and I baked at 160 C so there was no warping

I am however having some issues with my primer reacting to the plastic and causing bubbles, but I am trying a few different sealers this weekend so hopefully that problem will be resolved

CAn you tell me more about this plastic filler? I paint eva foma helmets cast resin so this filler maybe will be good for my work . Thank you

Reclaimara · Feb 6, 2016

Wow! Great work! Also didn't expect you to work manually later on, I thought the chest piece and everything would be 3d printer too XD

Straton JD · Feb 6, 2016

MonsterMask said:
CAn you tell me more about this plastic filler? I paint eva foma helmets cast resin so this filler maybe will be good for my work . Thank you

sure =] the 114 lg is a two part press tube (meaning you need a special gun to use it, sort of like an over-under silicone caulking gun) I personally get it from our supplier at work (wd co-auto) though you can buy it at some autobody stores (i would do a google search in your area for autobody suppliers, as opposed to autobody shops), it is a little pricey (i pay 50 a tube and that is at a small mark-up, not sure if 10 or 20 pecent) but it is insanely easy to work with and bonds to most plastics. If you do go this rout though, be sure to get extra nozzles as they solidify after one or two uses

heres a link to the product info
http://www.lord.com/products-and-so...-114lg114sm-plastic-finishing-adhesive-(fast)

MonsterMask · Feb 7, 2016

Straton JD said:
sure =] the 114 lg is a two part press tube (meaning you need a special gun to use it, sort of like an over-under silicone caulking gun) I personally get it from our supplier at work (wd co-auto) though you can buy it at some autobody stores (i would do a google search in your area for autobody suppliers, as opposed to autobody shops), it is a little pricey (i pay 50 a tube and that is at a small mark-up, not sure if 10 or 20 pecent) but it is insanely easy to work with and bonds to most plastics. If you do go this rout though, be sure to get extra nozzles as they solidify after one or two uses

heres a link to the product info
http://www.lord.com/products-and-so...-114lg114sm-plastic-finishing-adhesive-(fast)

Grate. can you tell me is it stinks ?

Straton JD · Feb 7, 2016

it has virtually no odour to it when applying, though as everything I still suggest a mask when sanding =]

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Marawuff said:
Wow! Great work! Also didn't expect you to work manually later on, I thought the chest piece and everything would be 3d printer too XD

thanks =] a good part of it was that I was missing the more hands on feeling of crafting =P also I have absolutely fallen in love with playing with sintra. I am insanely excited about future projects that I have planned =]

Straton JD · Feb 17, 2016

did some work on the cod piece, filled edges with filler to make smooth channels

sanding down groves with rolled sand paper

add a touch of primer

did same to rest of codpiece, sorry for lack of pics

secured strap for interior, still have to add side boxes/containers want to make them operable though so gonna have to figure that out

also started on nades and sniper shoulder

Xan Ives · Feb 18, 2016

Those are some sweet nades, I should think about picking a few up myself!

Straton JD · Feb 19, 2016

what I have so far (with pj undersuit =P)

First build 3d printed

Vrogy

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Straton JD

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Ckesner

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Straton JD

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MonsterMask

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Reclaimara

Sr Member

Straton JD

New Member

MonsterMask

Member

Straton JD

New Member

Straton JD

New Member

Xan Ives

Jr Member

Straton JD

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