Props M6 Mod WIP

Greeting and salutations to all. This will be my first mod of a HALO weapon so I decided to go small first and then work up to a larger weapon. My son had this particular gun lying around the house and had no more of the ammunition for it (didn't like the gun to begin w/) so no great loss for him.



As you can see, it is called a Hammer Head. It's an I-phone compatible gun that you can play it on-line. That small black protrusion center top of the gun is a tap piston that controls the phone's game gun trigger. Again, my son didn't like the game. The gun itself already is near M6 in shape. Hopefully I can get it a bit closer. Some of the features that I liked of the gun were 1) the tactical light in the front, 2) the hammer slides back when firing and, 3) magazine clip fed. I want to keep the motion of the hammer and the clip and make a working tactical light so here we go:


First step, disassemble:



Next step, paint:



I went w/ grey for the main body of the gun and taped over the grip to save the black. Need to touch up here and there but overall it came out nice and even. The front "Barrel" cover I went w/ silver to give it a bit of color. I may go back to a black but that can come after anyway. The tactical light was a bit harder. I first needed to find a light that would fit in that enclosed space but allow me access to turn on and replace the batteries when needed. I couldn't build something from parts so I found the smallest flashlight I could at my local hardware store. It was some kind of safety light w/ a long glow stick at the other end w/ a whistle attachment. I cut it down just enough that the push button remained on the outside of the frame. Speaking of which, the frame had to be cut in order for me to open it up. I took a hacksaw to the very front of the piece and it came apart easily. Sanded the rough edges and inserted an O ring (made of.....wait for it......yep, you guessed it, FOAM BOARD!!!) on the inside to hold the light in place. I hot glued it in position and them filled in the gap w/ more hot glue to make sure the foam O ring doesn't tear apart. And here is how it came out:



Pretty sweet. I just need to paint it black and the tactical light is done. Before I continued, I wanted a more secure way to holster the gun. I found an old style 2 part phone clip at work and attached one part to the gun and the other part will be clipped to my suit. I may or may not remove the spring that will lock it in place. Depends on if drawing the gun is too difficult. I would need to push a button to release the gun from the clip while wearing gloves.





Back to assembly: Just a quick piece together to see how it would look:



I left the orange strip in the front to indicate it was not a real weapon.......I read somewhere that certain cons require such visual aids to allow it to be worn. The front of the gun itself is wide open, as is the back end where the silver meets at the top of the gun but over all it looks cool. Once fully assembled, I will fill in the screw hols and touch up w/ paint. Certain screws I will leave as they are hex screws and look cool on the gun (To me at least). Also, I didn't spot it till after I started, there is a small section of grip at the back that I need to paint black. It was not original painted black but the main body color of yellow. Small fix but it will give the gun more definition.

That's all for now. Up next will be full assembly, filling in parts, and extending the hand guard. Not sure how yet. Any body have any suggestions? As always, comments and questions are more than welcome. Will update as i can.

Looks sweet as is already as far as I'm concerned. Could do with some kind of Misriah symbol somehere when ready, no ?
I did that on my Boomco by using a dark grey printed water transfer of the Misriah logo and slapped it on both sides of the handgrip. Just a thought.

As for extending the handguard .... if it was me, I'd be looking if I could extend the bottom of the "clip plastic" somewhat, maybe using eva foam or similar. I wouldn't make it that much bigger as it will start looking "off/forced" otherwise.

Thanks kaween, I like the logo idea. Not sure what you mean by the clip plastic. I was looking to extend the finger guard all the way down to the bottom of the grip. The clip itself adds a bit more to the bottom of the gun and I was going to add a bit of foam to flatten out the bottom itself. Something like this:

Ah. That makes sense. Misunderstood what you meant there, I thought you wanted to extend the handgrip itself.
Well, If I would have to do something like that now and I don't have access to a 3D printer, I'd look into bending an aluminium bar to a form/dimension that would fit what you want to do, slap a black paintjob on it and dremel the original triggerguard away.

In other words, I'd try to :
1) dremel away the "horizontal" part of the triggerguard, only keeping the 'vertical' part that would be extended in the to-be-created part
2) create a new handguard (the black thing you've drawn) so that it slides/shoves into the remaining part of the original trigger guard, and secure it in the handle at the other side. Fixation can be done by any type of material you want but if you want to it be strong, I've used "maleable metal" as it's called here. It's a gum-like material when unused, but it's some kind of 2 component compound which you have to knead to make it active. You can use it as filler/mounting plug to secure the new trigger guard inside. The material becomes rock-solid after it has hardened and can even be drilled into once solid state has been achieved.
3) paint the hole downside in a uniform color, done.

kaween point #1, Not sure if I can cut away at the horizontal part of the trigger. The trigger itself is on a track top and bottom w/ a spring on the bottom track. I'm not sure but if I do cut it away, I might loose gun functionality. Point #2, I know the stuff you are talking about. I've used it several times. Don't know why i didn't think of it. Thanks. That stuff will definitely do the trick. Point #3 The whole had grip? From the bottom of the main body all the way to the bottom of the hand grip? Yeah I see what you mean.



Here is the reassembly so far:



The gun is still functional and still shoots these little tiny rubber bands. The clip I installed also works great. I tried it wearing my armored gloves........no issues drawing it. Now once I have my suit built, I just have to figure out where to attach the other part of the clip to. Down the road a bit but I like to think ahead. So I should do away w/ the silver and stick w/ the all grey body?

HI there !

As for the triggerguard, I could be horribly wrong but as far as I can see, the only problem you'd have when removing the triggerguard is you'd loose the attachment point for the trigger-return spring.
So if you'd drill a hole in the front of the large trigger assembly part that resides in the gun, and create a new spring attachment point in the gun (... using a screw as attachment point) you should be able to remove the complete trigger guard without compromising the gun's functionality (unless there's some kind of guide/slide in the finger guard which I'm missing on the pictures of course).

"Naming of stuff". Yeah, that's a real pain but I'm glad you figured out what I meant.
A lot of stuff is known by the Mfg'ers name, and that changes from continent to continent, sometimes even from country to country.
Over here, that "kneadable metal" stuff is made by a company called Bison. So here it's called "Bison kneadable metal".

Countless times I had to look up what kind of stuff was being talked about on US-based forums to figure out exactly what the writer was talking about, only to find out the exact same company sells the exact same material in Europe under another name. Paints for example that are sold under the Dupli-Color label in the US ? That stuff is called Motip over here. Same company.

I like the dual color layout. Probably because it looks like many of the M6 color schemes I'm aware of. Mine's a similar, but reversed setup (black underside, gun metal barrel and ejector blabla, dark metal front part). It makes for a less boring look, and it accentuates the fact you still have a working slide action. Or at least, that's my opinion.

Here's an older WIP i made where it's a bit more clear what I meant to say with that. The fingerlight on the picture has nothing to do with the gun mod, it was for another part of the "halo project". The led in the front of the gun is acutally a 3Watt Cree led.

PS : consider painting the inside of your gun where opening ports are present. While I do like the orange highlights, seeing orange plastic when removing the clip for example (and when you look at an angle, the area of the trigger too) give an "off" impression.
Not looking to nitpick, but it just doesn't do justice to the otherwise splendid job you've done so far.

Yes, I see what you are referring to about the interior orange showing. Just have to make sure I paint lightly and thin enough not to get the clip stuck.

As for the trigger spring, it had one above as well built in to the main mechanism. Taking off the horizontal finger guard may be possible.

That 2 part kneed-able metal is available in the states. Several companies make different styles. Lock-lite: 2 part epoxy, JB Weld: Steal Stick, and Rector Seal Epoxy Putty Stick. The last one just sounds dirty......There are a few more but these are available at most chain hardware stores.

Thanks for the compliment. Your input is going to very helpful.

This is looking awesomeI love how you kept the moving parts.
I was thinking of doing something like this with my BOOMCO halo magnum as soon as I can figure out how to take it apart!:lol

Yeah taking the gun apart to paint while still keeping the functionality of it was hard. I kept everything on a desk in a certain place and left it as is till I reassembled. Provided you don't mess w/ the mechanical parts of the gun, you keep functionality of the gun. Take pictures of the interior once you open it for reference.

Chiefwannabe said:

This is looking awesomeI love how you kept the moving parts.
I was thinking of doing something like this with my BOOMCO halo magnum as soon as I can figure out how to take it apart!:lolView attachment 23804

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Taking that apart isn't half as hard really.
There are only 2 things that are a bit problematic : the pin at the rear "above your thumb" so to speak, and a similar pin in the front.

There are various links on the net that show different ways to open it. Take a look at the first minutes of this video for reference : I did a mod on this one myself while keeping it fuctional and adding a working tactical light commanded by the trigger : you might find that interesting, it's posted here somewhere too.

The fastest way is to simply hammer the back pin out from the "small" side -the side you're showing on the picture-. Take a nail and a hammer, and beat it out. Done.
If you heat up the plastic a bit, it will be somewhat easier.

I removed/free the back pin by using a set of cable-cutter pliers and jamming them on either side of the gun's slide from the inside (when the gun's clocked). The metal is quite weak, so if you press the pliers so they get a grip on the rod a bit, you can "unscrew" it. The front is a question of ... gently pulling. I took a large flat head screwdriver and pressed it between the front of the slide and the gun barrel, and carefully worked the pin out.

If you're a bit careful, you can open the Boomco that way very fast and without cause any damage at all.

kaween said:

Taking that apart isn't half as hard really.
There are only 2 things that are a bit problematic : the pin at the rear "above your thumb" so to speak, and a similar pin in the front.

There are various links on the net that show different ways to open it. Take a look at the first minutes of this video for reference :

I did a mod on this one myself while keeping it fuctional and adding a working tactical light commanded by the trigger : you might find that interesting, it's posted here somewhere too.

The fastest way is to simply hammer the back pin out from the "small" side -the side you're showing on the picture-. Take a nail and a hammer, and beat it out. Done.
If you heat up the plastic a bit, it will be somewhat easier.

I removed/free the back pin by using a set of cable-cutter pliers and jamming them on either side of the gun's slide from the inside (when the gun's clocked). The metal is quite weak, so if you press the pliers so they get a grip on the rod a bit, you can "unscrew" it. The front is a question of ... gently pulling. I took a large flat head screwdriver and pressed it between the front of the slide and the gun barrel, and carefully worked the pin out.

If you're a bit careful, you can open the Boomco that way very fast and without cause any damage at all.

Click to expand...

Thanks man !! I will definitely try that when i get more time.

Sorry for the delay guys, I've been so wrapped up w/ work and w/ my son's build, I though working on the gun should be secondary. I was just finishing up 1 piece of his armor and I had the gun sitting on the workbench. I had tossed some scrap EVA foam on it and 1 piece just landed exactly where the finger guard is so I took a few moments to get the piece realigned and cut to size. Its not the sturdiest of pieces but If I put some JB wield or some other epoxy based hardener on it.....it should do nicely. Then just repaint and touch up as needed. Going to keep the other piece of the trigger there as I am not sure if it will effect the action of the gun. Also I took some more EVA foam and cut a piece to fit inside the "barrel". I need to get a small PVC pipe or tubing to make a true barrel and just glue it on the front. I think this is looking more true to the game gun. Now I just need to add a bit to the bottom of the clip to even it out.