First foam build. Ever.

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No Eva foam won't be affected but to fill the gaps use polyfilla trim and baseboard filler it's flexible but I've noticed it tends to stick out under the paint if you want I can post photo showing what I mean
 
Thanks to everyone for the helpful information :D just one more question. Does spray paint eat away at the foam after a while or should I use normal acrylic paint? And I decided to go with the glue and water mix. Also what do I use to fill in the seams of the armour? Like where I've glued and cut and whatnot? :)

Actually, I've heard that some types of paint do eat away at the foam.. Some people tell me that the plasti dip prevents this. Unless your using a certain type of paint, you don't have to worry about this, though.
 
It's partly why it's recommended to seal the foam before painting. It's a preventative measure to keep the foam from being eaten.
 
spray paint does not eat at EVA foam. It is a closed cell foam unlike styrofoam which is an open type and can erode from the aerosol in the can which is the propellant, not the paint itself. EVA foam does not really need to be sealed......People use the plastadip to cover slight imperfections at the seams and cut points. As far as gluing and then plastadiping......that is kind of defeating the purpose of keeping it flexible. No glue I have used would be considered flexible, but to each their own......
 
spray paint does not eat at EVA foam. It is a closed cell foam unlike styrofoam which is an open type and can erode from the aerosol in the can which is the propellant, not the paint itself. EVA foam does not really need to be sealed......People use the plastadip to cover slight imperfections at the seams and cut points. As far as gluing and then plastadiping......that is kind of defeating the purpose of keeping it flexible. No glue I have used would be considered flexible, but to each their own......
White glue tends to have a certain amount of elasticity to it compared to most other glues that I've seen hence the 'flexibility' and craft foams tend to be a bit porous hence the need to seal prior to painting.
 
White glue tends to have a certain amount of elasticity to it compared to most other glues that I've seen hence the 'flexibility' and craft foams tend to be a bit porous hence the need to seal prior to painting.

Craft foam and EVA although are similar in appearance, chemically/physically are different. So yes I would agree that craft foam would need to be sealed. I was actually using an old yoga mat for detail pieces on my son's build and saw no deterioration at all. So that must be chemically/physically different as well. ........Different foams for different homes and all that.......:facepalm bad Dirtdives, very bad.........I also have used watered down glue when base coating scenery pieces back in college, I don't recall any elasticity.....we actually used this method for its rigidity to paint on......
 
Craft foam and EVA although are similar in appearance, chemically/physically are different. So yes I would agree that craft foam would need to be sealed. I was actually using an old yoga mat for detail pieces on my son's build and saw no deterioration at all. So that must be chemically/physically different as well. ........Different foams for different homes and all that.......:facepalm bad Dirtdives, very bad.........I also have used watered down glue when base coating scenery pieces back in college, I don't recall any elasticity.....we actually used this method for its rigidity to paint on......
So far I've only had the pleasure of working with craft foams. From what I know, yoga mats are basically the same stuff as the large play room mats or EVA just thinner. With my breastplate I found the glue to be quite elastic though with some stretch when the foam needed to bend after being painted. only reason any of my paint crackled was because it was dollarstore acrylics.... Not very bendy ^^" The metallic silver was very elastic though, I get the sense that's got something to do with the way they make the metallic paints.
 
you should try the latex paints....those have the most flexibility.
 
The technique that really helped with my armor (Learned from EVAkura Armor) takes a while but produces awesome results.
1. Use a heat gun on the foam to seal the pores up until it "sparkles"
2. 2-3 coats of Clear Polyurethane spray to seal the foam even more
3. 2-3 coats of Plasti-Dip

I only use Rustoleum 2x Ultra cover spray paint, I didn't even have to clearcoat over it and it has held up fabulously over the last year!
 
How much is plastidip and how and where can I get some? Is it good for filling the seams? And I've read up on measurement tutorials and stuff... But I'm still confused on how to measure my forearm and which dimension to put into pepakura??? Do I put in width? Depth? Height?
 
Plastidip is relatively cheap if you get it in the small cans. I recommend praying your first layer with a spray can, and then brushing on the second layer. I hear it's good for sealing seams as well, but you'll mainly have to use a brush for that. By the way, pepakura has a tool which allows you to measure the distance between two points. It's helped me a great deal with scaling.
 
Hmmm...OK. Only because I'm kinda broke right now, hence the cheaper, glue/water mix. And thanks, I figured out the measurements haha xD but yeah, thank you for the help!
 
Hello all!! I have an update on my build! I have successfully completed the shin and forearm pieces! YAY! now, onto the shoulder/bicep pieces! P.S. I know the forearms look messy and crappy but eh..i'm still kinda proud of them :) forearm pieces.jpgshin piece 1.jpgshin piece 2.jpgshin 3.jpg (Also, please excuse the terrible lighting...)
 
what are you using to cut the form? if you are using an X-Acto knife you will need to change the blade at least once per foam square.

looking better than my first pieces.
 
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