Yet another Dft odst reach build

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I have two blade sharpeners and beleive me they are worth even penny, you can go from cutting 10-15 super clean cuts with a new blade to probably 120+ with the sharpener. The best one that I have found so far is one from harbor freight. It is a diamond plated sharpener with a 600 grit side that will sharpen the crap out of those blades, be sure to wet the surface of the block before you sharpen on it.

PS: have you considered contact cement?? Glue seems will look much nicer and stronger!

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sharpeners/4-sided-diamond-hone-block-92867.html

My Build: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php?t=47893
 
So I have another question dft showed that he used that paperclay stuff should I by that or am I good with just hot glue. Thanks

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Ok, here comes my rant on hot glue. Fuzzytrexy

Hot glue is alright for a fast build. there are several issues with it though. First and foremost if you ever use hot glue make sure that you are using true HIGH temp glue and gun. There is a very good reason for this. I have experienced it first hand. On a warm day, and under normal wearing conditions low temp glue, and Multi temp glue will have the chance of getting warm enough to soften, and then all your seams will pop. There goes your costume. High temp glue will do this if it is a very warm to hot summer day.

Cleaning up hot glue seams is also not very easy to do. It can be done, but not easily. Bathroom latex paint-able caulk is one way of fixing low spots and fixing seams.

A much better option to Hot glue is what is called Contact cement. One name brand is Barge Cement. Another is Weldwood DAP Contact cement. Of the two Barge is better but has a higher chance of fumes. These fumes should be dealt with via good ventilation and/or a respirator.

The reasons why contact is better is that it forms a much stronger bond. Generally after it has set your foam will tear before the seam will give out. When using Contact cement you have to be patient. You coat both sides of the seam with a THIN layer of contact cement. Let it dry till it is tacky/ almost dry to the touch. Then when you put the two sides together they stick to each other. You might have to put some pressure on it till it fully sets.

After it sets it is actually sandable to smooth out your seams if needed. You can also use the caulk mentioned above to help with any major gaps.
 
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Another question should I buy plastidip and how many spray cans should I buy I think 1 would be enough

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Another question should I buy plastidip and how many spray cans should I buy I think 1 would be enough

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I'd prefer someone answer this soon as I am ordering paper clay off Amazon now

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So here it is I finished making the armor with foam:
2c0c78010304b0d0fa5029bd9b951e41.jpg


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I'd prefer someone answer this soon as I am ordering paper clay off Amazon now

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I'm new to this as well, but having some experience with painting I would buy a minimum of 2 spray cans. One might be enough for a thin coat of all your armour, but 2 will ensure that you have at least one solid coat of Plastidip over the whole armour.
 
Another question should I buy plastidip and how many spray cans should I buy I think 1 would be enough

One can will coat everything for one layer which may be what your needs are but if you're using only PlastiDip for sealing the recommended is 3-5 coats. For my suit I averaged 4 coats with some being heavier for sections that'll receive wear more than others and the whole suit ate two and a half cans. I'd say grab three and make yourself a weapon out of EVA.
 
Ok. Second rant. PlastiDip.

You really, really do NOT need to use this product. One it has cancer causing components.
two, it is designed to eventually peel off of anything it is put on. I

f you made your armor with EVA foam you can skip the PlastiDip and go straight to a good quality primer or even spray paint as long as it says FOR PLASTIC on the print label. Krylon has quite a range of paints available that are for plastic. Rustoleum also has several versions.

PlastiDip also must be used in Warm temperatures and low humidity. If you use it when it is to cold, or not shaken well it will make a very uneven paint surface, much resembling an orange peel.
 
Another thing to remember is it doesn't really matter if a piece is entirely perfect a well orchestrated paint job does wonders at hiding bad spots.
 
dang it im the only one that cant do the DFT gauntlets then :( ?
yours look amazing, mine look weird, cant even make the body of it right.
 
Alright so here's what's happening now: So the armor is fun and all but I need to take a long break from it, it got no longer fun and was more of a job. I plan on asking for stuff for my costume around Christmas time so aftetr that I'll pick it up again. Because the next few steps I don't wanna rush.-Fuzzy

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Building can be a lot of work. I've rebuilt several pieces on this one suit and I always see something that I want to tweak. It's easy to burn out,but maybe you won't need as long of a break as you think. You have your pieces. Hang in there. Looking forward to the final pics.

- - - Updated - - -

dang it im the only one that cant do the DFT gauntlets then :( ?
yours look amazing, mine look weird, cant even make the body of it right.

start a thread and add your pics so we can see where you are at and offer suggestions. :)
 
Good idea to take a break Fuzzy. If it isn't fun anymore then it is worth taking some time to get the feeling back.


"I don't know what is weirder - that you're fighting a stuffed animal, or that you seem to be losing." - Suzie
 
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