Spray Paint sheens and brand

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opokadoka

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Hey everybody, I thought it would be cool to start a discussion on the sheens people use on their armor and whether or not it makes a difference. On my Mk V. Build I used rustoleum satin granite (gray). Post pictures too!
 
I also like to use satin finish paints, as they still offer a metalesque look, but don't look too shiny for well used battle armor. I prefer to use krypton paints if possibles!
 
Since ODST are (in my mind at least) the night crew without the fancy rainbow coloured Spartan Diapers I went for as muted a finish as possible. Also, I'm super lazy and Canadian Tire is on the way home from work so the majority of my paint selection is from their aisles.

Plastidip (3 coats) base for sealing followed by Krylon ColorMaster satin black paint/primer for one or two coats depending on the base colour of the foam to get a good dark base. ColorMaster "smoke grey" for one or two light coats and then to add hints of scorching or camouflage stippling I spray Rustoleum dark grey gloss at the same time as the Krylon satin black to mute it and make a fairly cool effect.

Most other details are done in acrylics with the Walmart/Dollar Giant special. Highlights and edges are scratched on with a beat-up old toothbrush and a bit of watered down black is used to add a bit of wash to sections that need extra wear.

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It's a bit of a process to get it all done but I come from a war-gaming mini background and this is definitely easier and less fiddly.
 
Is there a certain krylon type you use, like fusion?

Krylon ColorMaster which is a decent paint and primer. According to the can right next to me it has CoverMAX(TM) Technology. When in doubt, go with the science paint or the one that's not like $9 a can.
 
Have you used the rustoleum 2x, Any idea how it would compare? It bonds to plastic and covers really well.
 
Have you used the rustoleum 2x, Any idea how it would compare? It bonds to plastic and covers really well.

I've used it for some MDF prop projects but had some issues with it being temperamental. When most spray paints tell you to shake while spraying they really mean it for 2X because I found it could start to clump up after maybe a 5-10 second pass over the prop. This was definitely more of a problem earlier on in the can and got better as more was used which is either a sign of it really needs to be mixed or the can is overfilled to start with, I'm not sure which. It's good bang for the buck if you need something that goes a long way but it definitely didn't wow me so I've been sticking with Krylon for the major parts of props and armour which I've had good results with.
 
I've used it for some MDF prop projects but had some issues with it being temperamental. When most spray paints tell you to shake while spraying they really mean it for 2X because I found it could start to clump up after maybe a 5-10 second pass over the prop. This was definitely more of a problem earlier on in the can and got better as more was used which is either a sign of it really needs to be mixed or the can is overfilled to start with, I'm not sure which. It's good bang for the buck if you need something that goes a long way but it definitely didn't wow me so I've been sticking with Krylon for the major parts of props and armour which I've had good results with.

We'll you have me sold, il have to get my hands on some and give it a try. Thanks for sharing!
 
It's good to stick to flat1 or matte finishes when working on a battle damaged suit. I don't usually stick to certain brands but I've never had a bad can before. Typically Rustoleum and Krylon brands. If you are doing scratches in the armour, it's good to use a shiny metallic aluminum on a dry brush. Hope this helps!
 
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