Need a little advice on using foam for helmets.

Amytgrl1988 · Sep 27, 2016

Ok I am working on halo reach odst armor and I was hoping for some advice on doing the helmet. The questions I have are whether or not eva foam is easier than pepakura, and can I achieve the same result? Any advice would be most appreciated.

Sturmwulfe · Sep 27, 2016

You really can't achieve the quality of pepakura using foam. Sure, it can be done if you're very skilled and experienced with eva foam, but pepakura is a lot easier and a better place to start, albeit a bit more expensive... However for everything but the helmet, I really think eva foam is a great choice.

Ashgro · Sep 27, 2016

i have seen people make amazing helmets with foam but i aggree with Sturmwulfe pepekura is a better place to start (though i shouldnt talk i model and print my helmets)

arma358 · Sep 27, 2016

I use pepakura just about exclusively for helmets. Strong when hardened and fiberglassed, kinda fun to put together and make into something, and your result is usually very well made in the end.

Keep in mind that it will be heavy though, and you'll be wearing it every time you don your armor.

Noodle109 · Sep 27, 2016

Even if you have templates, don't be afraid to make the helmet more than twice. You can start with cardboard if you don't feel comfortable wasting foam, but you gotta try 2 or 3 times to get it just right, especially with the ODST one. And I noticed the mention of,"Reach," if you're using the DFT video as reference, you're going to want to spend extra time rounding the edges.

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And yes, way better than pepakura

Reclaimara · Sep 27, 2016

I wouldn't call EVA foam being easier or harder. Both take time and you can win or fail at doing both.
Rather, you should test it for yourself what suits you more. Where you have more fun.

For helmet, most people do pepakura with resin and all. While it can take bit more time, it mostly has better results.

Amytgrl1988 · Sep 27, 2016

Thank you guys for all of the advice. I am considering pepakura. I'll just be helmetless for Halloween. Ha, oh well. ��

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Oh and I am using the dft files.

Dropbear · Sep 27, 2016

Foam is hard for me too man. I cannot for the life of me bevel foam and I kinda need to.. to use it, even with a sharp knife. It comes out all jagged and I find it difficult to get a neat bevel/ even cut through the stuff. Part of me thinks its the actual foam I am using.

Amytgrl1988 · Sep 28, 2016

With some practice I've managed to be able to sand the foam smooth after beveling. Also try scoring it first then going deeper.

Hibson · Sep 28, 2016

Both will take some effort, like others said, it's a little easier to get the sharp lines with Pepakura. Foam, you have to do a lot of angling and stuff. Thus, I went for a cast helmet for my first

Just make sure to have a very sharp blade if you're trying to use foam, I'm practicing my beveling as I'm terrible at it so far.

TurboCharizard · Sep 28, 2016

Dropbear said:
Foam is hard for me too man. I cannot for the life of me bevel foam and I kinda need to.. to use it, even with a sharp knife. It comes out all jagged and I find it difficult to get a neat bevel/ even cut through the stuff. Part of me thinks its the actual foam I am using.

What size of knife are you using? Are you using any sort of guide or support to help in directing your cut?

combinestrider · Sep 28, 2016

Foam helmets can be done. You really want to draw and plan out how you're gonna make it before you actually start though. The final result needs to be symmetrical.

Dropbear · Sep 28, 2016

TurboCharizard said:
What size of knife are you using? Are you using any sort of guide or support to help in directing your cut?

Well I use stanley knives, the types of knives that extend. I can get clean straight cuts with a ruler and even without if im careful. But doing 45° bevel has proven difficult. I should try doing it on the piece whilst im cutting it out. But that is very situational. Some pieces need to be beveled after being cut. I can't seem to get it right. Again I think its this foam because I found some other EVA foam in the house the cut easier and was more squishy but still very sturdy. This bevel issue for me is really disheartening.

TurboCharizard · Sep 28, 2016

Dropbear said:
Well I use stanley knives, the types of knives that extend. I can get clean straight cuts with a ruler and even without if im careful. But doing 45° bevel has proven difficult. I should try doing it on the piece whilst im cutting it out. But that is very situational. Some pieces need to be beveled after being cut. I can't seem to get it right. Again I think its this foam because I found some other EVA foam in the house the cut easier and was more squishy but still very sturdy. This bevel issue for me is really disheartening.

Try using a straight edged support block sandwiched between your cutting mat and the foam and then set your ruler as a guide on the top of the foam. Then set your angle by sliding the foam to create an offset and run your blade along both guides.

This is what I did for straight edged bevel for places like shoulder piece joins but for rounded edges, I hear your pain. That was a whole bunch of touch ups with a rotary tool if my blade wasn't freshly snapped off to a new section. Then again, $2 for the handle and 11 blades that lasted me for my suit was nothing to sniff at.

Freefall · Sep 28, 2016

I always sharpen the blade right before bevels. It helps the blade glide right through.

arma358 · Sep 28, 2016

I've been using the same type of blade and handle. My recommendation is to sharpen often, and change pretty frequently as well. I've heard from others that about six inches of cutting in EVA significantly dulls your blade.

TurboCharizard · Sep 28, 2016

arma358 said:
I've been using the same type of blade and handle. My recommendation is to sharpen often, and change pretty frequently as well. I've heard from others that about six inches of cutting in EVA significantly dulls your blade.

Definitely some truth to this although mileage may vary depending on if it's a new blade or one that has been sharpened. On my cheapo knives I never sharpen them and find that I can get away with a smaller piece cut out with no issues per section of blade, maybe a bit more if it's all straight lines. Bevel cuts and curves definitely require more frequent changing so it's just a matter of getting to know the feeling of when it's time to change out.

Dropbear · Sep 28, 2016

funny thing I cannot figure out how to snap of the blades so I've just been sharpening them ahahaha. Also another funny thing is a cheap 2$ blade is better than a 16$ Stanley from Bunnings.

TurboCharizard · Sep 28, 2016

Dropbear said:
funny thing I cannot figure out how to snap of the blades so I've just been sharpening them ahahaha. Also another funny thing is a cheap 2$ blade is better than a 16$ Stanley from Bunnings.

Yeah... I had a bigger Mastercraft thing from Canadian Tire that was $8-$10 and now it's banished to the toolbox because the cheapo ones seemed to work better for me.

If you can't snap them off, retract the blade to the section you want to break at and use a pair of linesman pliers to grip and snap. For the discarded blades make sure to keep them somewhere safe especially if you have kitties or other little derps running around.

Dropbear · Sep 28, 2016

TurboCharizard said:
Yeah... I had a bigger Mastercraft thing from Canadian Tire that was $8-$10 and now it's banished to the toolbox because the cheapo ones seemed to work better for me.

If you can't snap them off, retract the blade to the section you want to break at and use a pair of linesman pliers to grip and snap. For the discarded blades make sure to keep them somewhere safe especially if you have kitties or other little derps running around.

Yes I have a derpykitty. Thx for the advice.

Need a little advice on using foam for helmets.

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