Muddy Secrets Tutorial

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HaloFreakX said:
Pep file for Hayabusa Helm? (If that is)
NO!
NZ-TK said he hasn't announced releasing it!
If you want one so bad, make your own 3D file.
 
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Hey Sigma, I was wondering how easy is it to drill through fully cured mud? Im goin to use this method to finish up my Sniper Rifle and I need to add nuts and bolts after im done with the Mud stage.... I just want to knwo if it cracks easily or if its too delicate to go drilling holes everywhere.
 
Use a high-speed tungston carbide cutting bit and you shouldn't have any problems. Just don't put a lot of pressure on it, let the bit do the cutting. ;)
 
Cool thanks! would you suggest I do the drilling after the mud? or get the holes pre-cut? I really dont want to screw up after making it this far, ya know lol
 
Do it after the mud. That way if you screw up, it's easier to fix and you'll have less trouble keeping the holes smooth. Good luck. Your sniper is looking pretty awesome so far. :D
 
sorry noob question i am getting ready to work on my arm peace. So i have all ready put 4 lays of resin on it. But on your pictures is that all mud or something else . Thank you for the help.
 
SWEET. But damn i dont think i can be bothered to do all this crazy stuff. all i wanna do is use cardstock print pep onto that. plaster it after put together and paint. and if that looks good ill deff wear it around town. :tutu: HAHA THEY HAVE AN ACE VENTURA ICON
 
fightstar said:
Link4044 - Homie! Quick question for you, and anyone else who knows, what is the 'mud' suppose to look like? In other words is it suppose to be 'runny' or more like 'molasses'? Did some of this with my fellow Halo Lovers here in Tallahassee, Vrogy and TheRob, and wanted to make sure we are getting it right.

Anybody have an answer for this question? Runny or more like molasses? I've taped up a few areas on my helmet and plan to do use this method tomorrow. Any help would be great so that I don't destroy the weeks of work I've already put into my helmet.

Thanks
 
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Ok, my first try didn't go to well :unsure:

A few things-
1) I thought I'd have a lot more time to work with this stuff than I actually did. I'm guessing I had about 3 min before it started setting up.

2) I think I used too much. I started building up quite a bit of mud in areas I didn't want it to be very thick. By time I started moving it around with my plastic spoon it started setting up.

3) When I realized it was starting to set up I panicked (I was thinking of all the sanding I was going to have to do) Thankfully my first instincts were good. I took my spoon to it and started carving away. It came up easy and had a consistency of soft cheese.


Questions-
1) Is the work time suppose to be that quick?

2) Should I try doing smaller areas? I was trying to do each uniformed section by itself so that the helmet would look as casted as possible. I'm working on a curved area. I thought I could get away with it not being flat. Now I'm not sure. I think it all comes down to me using to much.


Pictures-
[attachment=5855:IMG_1777.JPG]
You can kind of see what I was going for on the legendary helmet.

[attachment=5853:IMG_1796.JPG]
I think I poured too much in.

[attachment=5854:IMG_1804.JPG]
It came up pretty easy, thankfully.


Any advice/help would be great.

I hope this post helps others out too.

Thanks guys
 
The time you have to work with it depends on the amount of hardener you add - less = more work time but 3 minutes sounds about right.
 
Can this be done with the mud? Can you build a sealed box and suspend your finished peice about half way into the box and fill half the box with mud and then do the same for the other side for a much cheaper molding process?
 
OrrionCarn said:
Can this be done with the mud.......for a much cheaper molding process?
I would think you might have a problem with finding a release agent for this and you're talking about A LOT of mud - that's a considerable expense.
 
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Well, this changes my approach to bondo. It sounds really good - can't wait to try it out.

Still have to pep the legs and boots on my suit first, though :cautious:

But in the meantime, thanks for sharing!
 
i kinda like the idea that you could just dip the parts. I actually saw a video of someone that took plaster strips and wrapped them around the parts like a cast. depending on how good & tight you got the wrapping you wouldn't even need to sand. I think i'm gonna find something highly cost effective to start dipping the parts.
 
My question is about taping. The tutorial said to fold over the first 1/2", thus leaving ~1" of sticky left. Do you then tape the sticky part right up to the area you're mudding and fold up the 1/2" of folded over tape to make a sort of pool for the mud to collect in? Then from that point you'd poor in mud and estimate about 1/16" layer and smooth before letting set?

Second, if you want to smooth out a corner to make it rounded, how do you get the layer of mud over the edge? Someone asked earlier that the mud on the high points would gravitate to the lower, and the reply was that enough doesn't. Is this the same case?
 
Pardon the semi-necro-bump,but this made me happy.Definitely going with this for when my armor is to that point.

This will also help splendidly as I go to re-start my Blutsauger(Team Fortress 2 Medic weapon);the bondo-ing I did on it got screwed up massively by the humidity of my basement.

Thank you so much for this.
 
question to all:

before i start this, did you guys fiberglass the piece before mudding? or did you just straight out mud the plain paper pep piece?

i'm really suky with the fiberglass fabric and would prefer to just skip it and do mudding.
 
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