Recent content by cgspartan

just gonna copy/paste a point i made about this same topic in another thread rather than rewriting it.

you could always just go with a different kind of rubber. A tin cure silicon or a urethane rubber would work fine for suit accessories. You don't always need to go for the most expensive choice. (if you do urethane rubber though, make sure to use their uv resistant additive to keep it from...

That product is NOT 15 gallons for $160. it is a 1 gallon kit of mold star 15. A 1 gallon kit of any product on smooth-on's website which is a 1:1 mix ratio, will give you 2 gallons of finished product. ( 1 gallon of part A, 1 gallon of part B ) So this product is only fractionally less...

just out of curiosity. What did you guys use to seal up all that fabric before making the molds?

it really depends on the quality of your body filler as well. Plain old bondo brand, Do NOT pile it on, you will still have to do small sections all over the place from voids and pinholes that get trapped in the bondo. If you are using Bondo Professional or whatever it's called. The higher...

don't feel too bad about the x shortcut mess up. That's one that hits EVERYONE at some point or another. When I was in college it was sort of an initiation thing into 3dmax, and everybody got a good laugh out of whenever a new person would find that out.

Go to the Customize menu, then Preferences. Inside that open up the Viewports tab. At the bottom of that is a button that says "Configure driver", click on that button, which brings up your menu with settings for that. Be careful setting them to "match bitmap as closely as possible"...

http://3dtotal.com/ Lots of beginner tutorials there for multiple programs. Unfortunately no one is going to be able to really help you on here because no one knows what you want aside from "i want to learn 3dmax" No tutorial will cover everything you want to know. EVER. In the last...

basically to get the pep files to work with my plotter, I export the entire pep file, all pages, as a single EPS file, open that up and resave it in illustrator, still as an EPS (the software for the plotter won't read the EPS files directly from pep for some reason) Then in the software...

i'm sorry, are you a mod.. didn't think so. Take the backseat modding elsewhere. This thread was brought back with relevant information to the topic of the thread. If mods were displeased by this thread getting brought back, it would have been closed. It's not your responsibility to police...

nope, do that on purpose, for the way that I work the outside doesn't matter, the smoother the inside is the better.

yes i know this i'm making a necro post as well, but with much information. I personally wouldn't recommend any of the machines listed in here. The software for them is downright childish, not a lot you can do with it. and the machines themselves are really weak in terms of what they can...

It's really not any more expensive than fiberglass/bondo. A gallon kit of smooth-cast 300 is about 90-100USD after shipping. That gives you 2 gallons of resin (1gal partA, 1gal partB) 2 gallons of standard resin is gonna run you about 70, then the fiberglass mat/cloth/whatever to use all...

if you're just looking to do a quick layer of resin over the outside to keep your pep piece from warping just go with this stuff a lot of craft stores carry that stuff, if not you can order it from tap plastics.

I can at least tell you that it won't have a negative effect on the plastic. I've mixed talc into smoothcast 300 before to get a more paste like consistency to it. and it still cured fine.