I'm curious as to what you mean by "raised"? 99% of the foam I have seen has a pattern on one side, and a flat or smooth on the other. If this is the case. Use the smooth side. The "diamond pattern" should be the part that that is next to the body.
Hi there. So I used the reply with quote tab so I could see what your problem was. The link you are using does not have a .jpg attached to it. It looks like you used the wrong image code. I hope you don't mind. But I looked at the link you tried to post. Nice work on the helm. Looking forward...
Love the way this is turning out. Question though as I don't think I saw it. What did you coat the outside of the hard armor parts with. Also in the future. try using Smooth Cast 65d. It is made specifically for roto casting. That should help ease the bubble issue.
Hmmmm good question. I coated 3 full helms with 2-3 coats each. A little bit goes a long way. As for doing an entire suit??? I really couldn't tell ya. After using the trial kit I liked it so much I spent the money and got the gallon kit. Which actually nets you 2 gallons total. You one gallon...
I agree. Smooth-On is a VERY good call. How ever I would suggest using Smooth-Cast 65d. It is made specifically for roto casting. For the outer shell I use Smooth-Cast 320. The 320 takes the place of the fiberglass resin. And the 65d is used in place of the rondo. A trial kit of each is about...
Don't worry. The piece count is showing the total number of actual pieces. For the faom teemplates there are only about 60 pieces. If you zoom out. You will see the rest of the pieces. You don't need them. You only need what is shown on the paper area.
OK if this one comes out even one tenth of your Reach armor. It will be epic. Hope you will have it ready for Megacon next year. I need new pic of you with it and that beast of a Gravity Hammer. :)
Smooth Cast is very easy to get. I get mine from http://www.reynoldsam.com I have used it for a couple of years now on other prop projects. And it is very good stuff. As to not wearing a respirator. While there is a risk of it getting onto your bare skin as it heats up as it cures. The vapor...
Help is what we are here for. Printing the pep and making a template is good. But you will need to leave out some of the pieces. And some you have to connect. The best thing I can tell you is to check out L3X's thread http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33480-L3X-s-File-Database
Although he...
It looks like you are using an unmodified pep file. Anytime you use a pep file. Some minor alterations may be needed. Don't get discouraged. You are on the right track.
As to another method of hardening. I don't use fiberglass or resin. I use Smooth Cast. I brush on an outer layer. Then I...
The foam build is actually better for me than regular pep. There are some pieces that I have to mod, but it makes it that much better. I also had to scale up the piece to 508mm in width. So some of the pieces are pretty large. But like I said. It is as easy as cutting and gluing. :)
OK so I have been really busy with life stuff. But I wanted to give everyone an update. So here it is. OK so I finished a knife. It looks good for a first run attempt. But I think I am going to redo it, and make it even better. As for the armor. I did that in about a day and a half. Had to take...
Hey LCB. If I am not mistaken he said he using L3X's foam templates. Check out the thread with all of downloads for foam templates here. http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33480-L3X-s-File-Database