Recent content by herogear

http://propaholics.wolfchasers.com/uploade...NO-ARMOR-C2.jpg http://propaholics.wolfchasers.com/uploade...it-render-2.jpg The model's pretty good detail-wise, & there are several textures to choose from if you look around.

I'll finish & post them eventualy, just not here... & I'm not really pissed, I'm just pointing out the blatant hypocrisy... By the way, recasting licenced statues for armor is also illegal copyright infringement. :rolleyes

Sorry. Since trying to be helpful is a banning offence, I won't be posting any content that violates intelectual copyright. Please be aware that the distribution of any copyrighted material, including ripped or original models and files relating to halo, it's characters & weapons, Marvel...

Vrogy, The way to go is EL wire or strips. I just built my kid a new gaming computer, & we stuffed a ton of blinky lightbars, EL-wires & panels into it, & they where fairly cheap, & easy to work with. The thing lights up an entire room like a rave... I might have over done it... ;) You can...

If you've already worked with Pep & cardboard, build up from there... Pep your armor parts, assemble, give them a quick coat of resin, superglue, epoxy, etc to make a shell, shoot some foam into the interiors if you like for stability, then use spackle to smooth & shape the exterior. Once you...

An AR? I hope your built like the masterchief, Cause it'll weigh about 30 pounds, & cost about the same as a real rifle... A pistol will weigh around 5 to 10 pounds. Low-temp alloys are heavy, about the same as lead. The biggest piece I've done in cast metal was one of my king arthur crosses...

Heh.... Home Depot. ;) I kid you not... Lead-free, solid 'plumbers' solder (no flux)... Low temp, great strength (better than pewter, & most other low-temps), & buffs to a beautiful sterling silver finish that doesn't tarnish... The ring in my gallery is made from it. It runs about $10 - $12...

Greer's is perfectly fine, & it's good quality... Not as good as Testworth's mold-builder, but good for most purposes. Usualy I'll pick up a pail if I'm in a rush, as he takes paypal, while Testworth's does money orders, checks, & CC... I'm not sure if they still do COD, but you can ask...

Latex is perfectly suitable for armor molds. It only shrinks noticeably if you use cheap (i.e. high water, low solids) latex. I posted these in the greatest mold-making site thread. ----- A note on latex... When you have the patience to work with it, it's perfectly suitable for making larger...

Check out my gallery for abunch of pics molds & resin castings I've made with Greer's products... http://405th.com/forums/index.php?automodu...m&album=211 All the molds are his silicone with purple catylist, & the resin pieces are the casting resin. The 2 big pails at the end are a 10...

About testing it? Heck, I'm practicaly their spokesperson on the web, & I'm just a happy customer. I do want to add a note about latex. The very best place to order from price-wise is here- Testworth Laboratories Inc. 401 S. Main St., PO Box 91 Columbia City, IN , 46725-2143 Phone...

That's how the make boat hulls & custom car body panels... It's only good for flat or slow curving planes, & requires several coats of mold release, usualy wax. Armor simply has to many curves & shaping to do with a hard mold. The main rule is this- A soft mold for a hard casting, A hard...

It's very durable... It have a very slight amount of flex to it up to a 1/4" or so. 1/2" and up you can beat it with a hammer & all you'll do is make dents. The only time I've ever accidently broken a piece, it was a fairly thin casting. Wolf

Fiberglass resin, even his, smells... It's actualy not the resin itself, but the catylist... It's pure hydrogen peroxide. I have yet to find an 'oderless' FG catylist. The difference between fiberglassing resin & casting resin is this- Fiberglassing resin is a polystyrene base, Casting resin...

You'll love this place... :) John has always gone out of his way to help me out with what ever I needed. A note on latex... When you have the patience to work with it, it's perfectly suitable for making larger i.e. armor molds. I use it for almost all my bigger pieces, helmets, predator...