Recent content by LegacyAlloy227

Yep! Living at home in Milwaukee. You're Madison, right?

I've really slacked on the updates, but I've got a lot done during the past few months. First, I finished my printing phase! It started with combining a bunch of smaller pieces into one print and getting them done at the same time. After the final print, all the pieces were good to go and...

If you want to print weapons an S5 might be the way to go. The guns from Halo, especially the Covenant weapons, super chunky and have a lot of length as well, so an S5 would decrease the individual pieces you need to print. You should also look into tree branch supports. Those will save you a...

I use a CR-10S5 which has half a cubic meter of printing space. The CR-10 is a good option for beginner printers like me because after setting it up, it's pretty easy to use and maintain. The quality of the prints are really good too, as long as it is regularly maintained. I didn't maintain my...

Casting sheet does sound tough. Casting might work for some parts but not all of them. I found this video about connecting aluminum with a brazing rod. Personally, I would try applying an EVA template to aluminum sheets and go from there.

All I can do is recommend aluminum. Steel would be way heavy, and depending on the type you use, I don't know if it would be cosplay anymore. An interesting idea that I literally just thought of is making the armor out of casting foam instead of EVA, and then pour molten aluminum into the mold...

Thanks. That's probably what I've been looking for, but just didn't know the name.

I have a pair of ODST helmets, but they are not wearable because they have no padding. I tried using very thick and coarse packaging foam (The kind that holds computer parts in place while in the box). That was a failure because they were too stiff, difficult to cut cleanly, and uncomfortable...

Wisconsin was in the upper 60's this week, so I took advantage of the weather and painted some helmets. My Hardcase helmet was repainted into the default 501st, and the second one on hand was painted into the 332nd Company helmet.

I'm using PLA. I think cooling might be a large part of it. Also, do you know how to increase the adhesion of overhang supports to the actual model? The first time I printed my ODST chest piece, the supports fell right off of it. (They were printed off of 70~80 degree angles.) Increasing the...

Early on, the print would warp off of the raft and the print would be ruined. This only happens when a majority of the model is printed directly onto the raft without supports. To combat this, I have Krazy Glue with a brush tip, and I literally brush the corners where a model is attached to the...

Update: I have more pieces printed! Both hips and the belt are good to go. The chest was almost done, but the supports decided to bail on me. I am currently printing the lower back piece, and the chest is redesigned. In other news, I'm considering changing my Hardcase ODST into a basic 501st...

I've been recommended Cr10's and Enders. I use a Cr10S5, which has a 500mm printing bed. A little overkill, but I'm excited to print entire thigh and forearm pads in one go! (As long as the supports stay in one place.) I got mine on sale for $799. It took a REALLY long time for me to learn how...

I've never heard of tpu! I've been using pla for everything.

Don't know enough about the Infinite under suit, but it looks spot on. I'm a little concerned with mobility and comfort however. If these pieces are 3d printed, than it's a completely solid under suit. Would it be possible to convert these into sheet templates that could be used to cut rubber...