1st Build 3d print reach build

cursedzeba

New Member
Alright so the title is rather self explanitory, I did start a recon build years ago with pepakura but I never got far with it.
Now I have a 3d printer I thought I could try again so here I am, I attempted to start with a EOD helmet but Somehow I could not get the parts to print right with the petg I have and decided to order some other materials to try out. I have however had success with the simpler parts like the hand plates so I at least have them.
I decided on the EOD helmet it has a small visor and plenty of room for me to experiment with electronincs though the Gunginir helmet is VERY tempting to try however for a first helmet it is probably too ambitious.
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cursedzeba

New Member
Alright so not much progress with it so far, my attempts in printing the EOD helmet have been less than successful with most prints endind up a mess such as the one here with all the blobbing and the supports fused into the model. I have had some results with simpler parts like the FJ/Para shoulder piece. I am going to get a full metal upgrade for my microswiss and try a different brand of PETG. I have had success with Sunlu and I hear that ESun is pretty good, any suggestions from people would be welcome as well.
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TurboCharizard

Division PR, RMO and BCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Alright so not much progress with it so far, my attempts in printing the EOD helmet have been less than successful with most prints endind up a mess such as the one here with all the blobbing and the supports fused into the model. I have had some results with simpler parts like the FJ/Para shoulder piece. I am going to get a full metal upgrade for my microswiss and try a different brand of PETG. I have had success with Sunlu and I hear that ESun is pretty good, any suggestions from people would be welcome as well.
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Blobbing like that looks like you've got a leak forming in your hotend, make sure that the PTFE is cut flush and is butted up against the nozzle fully. Another possibility is that if you have an older machine or a weird setup the cooling fan might not be pulling it's weight and cooling off the heat sink causing you melt zone to expand and things to be too goopy too soon.

For filament recommendations, eSun PLA+ is my go to for printing complex models fast and accurately. Another suggestion I can make is avoid white filament if you can for sake of sanity further down the line, differences in shades of white are hard for your eyes to detect and when sanding it'll be hard to spot imperfections.

Overall your progress is looking good and I can't wait to see it suit up pics!
 

cursedzeba

New Member
So I decided to use pla+ instead for a more easy print and while it did print well givng a nice looking part the supports would not budge no matter what I did making it unusable. I have been trying all day to get a support settign that I can remove trying everying from slower and faster speeds, increasing Z distance and I have even reduced the temperature down from 220 to 190 in intervalls of 5 but every time I make a print the supports are fused to the test piece. I added my support settings to the end of this post so if you can advise any chanages I would apreciate it.
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Deadman627

Member
3D printers are really difficult to use. Keep at it and keep going you’ll get it eventually. It will be a really good build once everything is done.
 

cursedzeba

New Member
3D printers are really difficult to use. Keep at it and keep going you’ll get it eventually. It will be a really good build once everything is done.
Oh I know I have been using them for years, still not used to this one and I just changed the PTFE hotend to a full metal so I think I just need to get the temperature settings bang on honestly
 

TurboCharizard

Division PR, RMO and BCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
So I decided to use pla+ instead for a more easy print and while it did print well givng a nice looking part the supports would not budge no matter what I did making it unusable. I have been trying all day to get a support settign that I can remove trying everying from slower and faster speeds, increasing Z distance and I have even reduced the temperature down from 220 to 190 in intervalls of 5 but every time I make a print the supports are fused to the test piece. I added my support settings to the end of this post so if you can advise any chanages I would apreciate it.
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Have you tried a different support pattern than zig-zag?
 

SI3RRA 117

Well-Known Member
I double the layer height for my z distance with interfaces on as well as the roof and floors checked with decent results. I print with overhang angle of like 60-75 much less supports.
Or maybe it lies in retraction settings? Everything looks so fused together. Never messed with an all metal hotend. That last pic before your settings photos, looks like some serious over extrusion.
 
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marinesniper

Active Member
im with SI3rra 117 i had mine set at like 40 for over hang and the supports would just end up snapping my model, but when i went to 70 on overhang the are still strong but they do break of with out damage to my model...
 

cursedzeba

New Member
Bollocks the thermsistor cable broke, I have no idea what type I need for a microswiss but hopefully I can find one fast
 

cursedzeba

New Member
So after a nerve wracking day and a half this large part of the EOD helmet printed and seems alright, there are a few places where the petg blobbed and that is annoying but it looked okay until I attempted to line it up with the brow part I printed and it just does not line up, not sure if this is a error in printing or mild warping. I think I will have to either use a heat gun the bend it, usequick epoxy resin the hold the parts after bending it or as a Very Last resort, reprint the part but I want that to be the very last solution.
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Any tips on getting these parts to fit would be great as it's a lot of fillament to have to throw out
 

Rock Lobbster

Member
If I can make a little suggestion I'd recommend getting a woodburning tool and melting PETG to fill in your gaps. It makes a super sturdy filler. When you have a little left in a spool just use that and almost use it like "soldering" the pieces together.
 

marinesniper

Active Member
If I can make a little suggestion I'd recommend getting a woodburning tool and melting PETG to fill in your gaps. It makes a super sturdy filler. When you have a little left in a spool just use that and almost use it like "soldering" the pieces together.
yes i agree with rock lobbster the burning tool works very good and if you have light warping you can use a heat gun heat small areas up to adjust them god knows i have had to do it a couple of times. another tip if you do any prints that you use the option "raft" save the raft and you can use it to support parts you join together it really makes it strong.
 

cursedzeba

New Member
yes i agree with rock lobbster the burning tool works very good and if you have light warping you can use a heat gun heat small areas up to adjust them god knows i have had to do it a couple of times. another tip if you do any prints that you use the option "raft" save the raft and you can use it to support parts you join together it really makes it strong.
Using the raft in what way? like using it for strips of plastic to act as supports inside?
 

marinesniper

Active Member
Using the raft in what way? like using it for strips of plastic to act as supports inside?
like if you glue to parts together i cut the raft up to fit over the seem of where i glued it togther and glue it in place that way when i put my little resin coating inside it will be stron and locked in place....
 

cursedzeba

New Member
Good news everyone! I took an old part and using a heatgun reshaped it to fit better so now in ine day I have been able to start really putting it together though the multi colours do look silly I am glad I will be using a self leveling resin and primer spraypaint to be able to smoothe it all out.
The first picture is upside down as I am waiting for glue to dry.
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