40K Chainsword

Status
Not open for further replies.

FelixMercenary

Member
D53F58A6-FDFD-4FFA-B3E0-5BCE170ED7CA.jpeg
19902EC5-2CFA-49D4-9FDD-CA59BF888C8F.jpeg
A couple weeks ago, I had my friend Eric Lobb 3D print me parts that would come together to make a 40K chainsword. I intend to make it look like a chainsword from my own custom chapter. Black base, blue accents, silver teeth, and gold trim.

This thread will serve as a place where I can post images and progress of the chainsword starting with work I did on it tonight.

————————————————————————————————————————————

I had previously assembled it and used epoxy to hold the pieces together, unfortunately, I must not have used enough or mixed it well enough because two parts separated. Tonight, I sanded away the previous epoxy and reapplied epoxy before placing them back together. I used a 5 minute set epoxy but I’m going to give it a full 24 hours before I start anymore work on it.
 
It’s been a while!
My apologies for the wait.

Some important developments! At this year’s Sci Fi Valley Con, I will be donating the chainsword to the Gearbox Union charity raffle. And I’ve started thinking about maybe doing a Godwyn pattern bolter as a personal project...

So recently, I’ve been working on the chainsword. I started sanding it and it was going really well but with my work schedule and other dedications I have, I wouldn’t have enough time to finish it by Sci Fi Valley Con. So, I came onto the forums and started searching for tips on how to speed up the process. E0FFABA7-4069-418D-97FF-DE99DFA39BDF.jpeg7D9F76FC-3C11-4110-979A-157E8E7B906A.jpeg

I learned from a post here on the forums that using krylon triple thick clear followed up with a light coat of anvil gray, I could effectively fill the gaps between the lines of filament. And since the weather was cooperating, for once, I decided to try it out, especially seeing how others trying this method had worked so well. The first coat didn’t quite do it. I put a second but then it started to rain! So I had to stop for the night and bring it and the paint inside. The second coat turned out better. It’ll still needs another 1 or 2 coats before it gets to a point where I like it. 2E99F4CB-46BF-4144-87A7-299D2B359B9A.jpeg

After that, I’ll be doing it up in the colors of my personal 40K Space Marines chapter with golds, silvers, and blues. I’ll be sure to update you all as progress comes along!!
 
It’s been a while!
My apologies for the wait.

Some important developments! At this year’s Sci Fi Valley Con, I will be donating the chainsword to the Gearbox Union charity raffle. And I’ve started thinking about maybe doing a Godwyn pattern bolter as a personal project...

So recently, I’ve been working on the chainsword. I started sanding it and it was going really well but with my work schedule and other dedications I have, I wouldn’t have enough time to finish it by Sci Fi Valley Con. So, I came onto the forums and started searching for tips on how to speed up the process. View attachment 269854View attachment 269853

I learned from a post here on the forums that using krylon triple thick clear followed up with a light coat of anvil gray, I could effectively fill the gaps between the lines of filament. And since the weather was cooperating, for once, I decided to try it out, especially seeing how others trying this method had worked so well. The first coat didn’t quite do it. I put a second but then it started to rain! So I had to stop for the night and bring it and the paint inside. The second coat turned out better. It’ll still needs another 1 or 2 coats before it gets to a point where I like it. View attachment 269855

After that, I’ll be doing it up in the colors of my personal 40K Space Marines chapter with golds, silvers, and blues. I’ll be sure to update you all as progress comes along!!
Fastest way to get something glossy smooth is to wail on it with 80 grit sand paper in a random orbit sander or a detail sander and then hit it with the Krylon Triple Thick/Krylon Chalky combination. The paint filler will obscure the print lines but the sanding will knock down any high spots or z-wobble or salmon skin that's in the print.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top