A few foam ideas

[PhantomSG13]

After watching BenStreeper's foam video I had a few more ideas that I thought I would float out there since I am about to start on my new suit(s).

For one, rather than making the armor straight from scratch\using pep file as a guide. I plan on making the thighs\shins\boots\cod-piece first in pep, then resin'n it but instead of glassing or rondoing I'll then attach foam the pepp'ed shell so I don't have to detail the piece after I put it together and I can cut the foam to shape.

2, don't know if anyone has done this yet, but what are the thoughts on using a heat wire(or blade or rig) to cut the foam rather than a sharp knife? thinking that that might lead to a slightly smoother\better cut and seal.

3. I have that foam in my garage (Obviously I'll buy more for my armor instead of all the foam I've walked on. But that stuff is thick. . .is there a 2\3 thickness version anyone knows of, because Even without the pep base I figure that I'll look like an anime Chibby with foam armor since I'm 5,5

 

[Zat German]

Please read Ben's entire thread. Myself and a couple other people talk about both of your questions.

 

[PhantomSG13]

cool, used the search function and read all his replies but didn't see it all answered. But, if its there I'll find it.

 

[OptimusWang]

I tried using a hot knife from Harbor Frieght to cut that stuff, and it was terrible. The edges end up melting until they were majorly disfigured. After that I tried a couple different things, and so far the best tool I've found has been tin snips (sometimes called airplane snips). They're used for cutting sheet metal, so as you can imagine they make short work of foam and generally make very clean cuts.

 

[Zat German]

I tried using a hot knife from Harbor Frieght to cut that stuff, and it was terrible.

It sounds like you were trying to use those 1/8" thick ones designed to cut polystyrene. The more surface area of the blade, the more heat is going to get transferred and therefore the more melting. A really thick blade is also going to get extremely hot. I really like my Dremel VersaTip but if I remember correctly, Harbor Freight sells a wood burning kit that will let you put an xacto blade in that will cut just as nice.

 

[OptimusWang]

Yeah, it's one of the huge ones that go for $12 or whatever, so no big loss. I really can't stress how well the tin snips cut this stuff though, it's as easy as cutting cardstock with normal scissors.

 

[Zat German]

Yeah, it's one of the huge ones that go for $12 or whatever, so no big loss. I really can't stress how well the tin snips cut this stuff though, it's as easy as cutting cardstock with normal scissors.

Do the tin snips squash the edges of the cut? It seems to me like they would.

 

[WrathPrime]

I have that wood burner from harbor freight and the blade that comes with it sucks. Maybe if a new one was placed on it that may work but the one that comes with it was dull and caused to much melting by the time it did cut through.

 

[TheHow7zer]

I just thought I'd ask if anyone has found a good way to smooth the edges.

?

 

[Zat German]

I just thought I'd ask if anyone has found a good way to smooth the edges.

Are you talking about joints between two pieces of foam or the edges created by however you cut it?

 

[TheHow7zer]

Are you talking about joints between two pieces of foam or the edges created by however you cut it?

The joints, where all the glue and such makes a mess. |I would like to know if it can be cleaned up, and how.

 

[TheBradinator]

I have found that when your making and glueing the pieces together, you can smooth out the joints using your finger dipped in water (to keep your finger from sticking to the glue and making an even bigger mess). you can also just put hot glue in the gaps and smooth that out to. Thats what i did and it cleaned it up alot. Also, battle damage hides the groves and messynes quite well.

Check out my foam build! It might help yall

 

[Zat German]

The joints, where all the glue and such makes a mess. |I would like to know if it can be cleaned up, and how.

I am going to try using the 1:1 Bounce/Foam Coat mix I posted about in Ben Streeper's Foam Armoring thread. I just started a Reach chest build out of foam, so I will post a picture when I try it. It is a really thick and tough but flexible mix that I think will work perfect. Like TheBradinator said, hot glue would work, many people have used it but I do not like it for visible gaps because it is tough to get it nice and flat and make the gap disappear.

Check out the results of a new cutting tool in my post: Electric carver.