Props A Real Combat Knife

Status
Not open for further replies.

Vrogy

Well-Known Member
2146886295_a98e07de85_m.jpg 2146875087_237df7b468_m.jpg

2146870033_cbfe882cdb.jpg

2146854607_3aa59e6480.jpg


Blade will be hardened tool steel.
Handle will be cast aluminum and black plasti-dip.


Yes, you can easily kill things with this.
I think I'll see if it can stab through a car door when it's done.
 

Vrogy

Well-Known Member
Crossfire said:
Awesome
cant wait for the final product.
are you planning on selling them?

Eh, not really selling them. Too much sweat in this.
edit: changed my mind. too poor not to sweat.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

23Magnum

Well-Known Member
TOOL STEEL? That thing probably weighs quite a bit then, hehe. What'd you cut that with a plasma cutter or just a regular torch? A least you won't be making many dents or nicks in the blade using tool steel. Can't wait to see the final product.

-Magnum
 
Looking at the blade you are cutting it out of, I bet it is in the L6 category. Nice stuff for blade making. Looking good. I used to make knives and can offer you an excellent quench formula for your tempering if your interested. Man I miss making blades....
 

Vrogy

Well-Known Member
23Magnum said:
TOOL STEEL? That thing probably weighs quite a bit then, hehe. What'd you cut that with a plasma cutter or just a regular torch? A least you won't be making many dents or nicks in the blade using tool steel. Can't wait to see the final product.

-Magnum
It's heavy for a blade, but not that heavy overall. I used an oxyacetylene torch, you can see it in one of the pics..


Spartan 161 said:
Looking at the blade you are cutting it out of, I bet it is in the L6 category. Nice stuff for blade making. Looking good. I used to make knives and can offer you an excellent quench formula for your tempering if your interested. Man I miss making blades....
Sure, heat-treating advice is welcomed. A machinist and swordsmith friend is helping me make this, but more info is always good.


Anyone have suggestions for a sheath? I need to keep it oiled or out of the air. I was thinking black leather and plastic, or maybe painted lexan fastened together with pop-rivets and spacers.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
For a project like this I would recommend a Kydex sheath for aesthetics. Its a futuristic combat blade why not go with Kydex and make a futuristic sheath. I can provide you with a great web site that has some great tuts with Kydex.

As for leather, there is a problem when dealing with Carbon steels and leather. If you leave it in the sheath for long periods of time the Chemicals in the leather tend to corrode the blade no matter how oiled it may be. So if you go the leather rout you may want to make a wall display for the blade and sheath and just keep it oiled and out of the sheath.
 

Vrogy

Well-Known Member
Spartan 161 said:
For a project like this I would recommend a Kydex sheath for aesthetics. Its a futuristic combat blade why not go with Kydex and make a futuristic sheath. I can provide you with a great web site that has some great tuts with Kydex.

As for leather, there is a problem when dealing with Carbon steels and leather. If you leave it in the sheath for long periods of time the Chemicals in the leather tend to corrode the blade no matter how oiled it may be. So if you go the leather rout you may want to make a wall display for the blade and sheath and just keep it oiled and out of the sheath.

I checked, and it is indeed L6, supposedly Scandinavian in origin.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Vrogy

Well-Known Member
Garland said:
Nice! Good to see a real knife being made. Are you making a couple, or just the one?

Probably just the one, but I guess the double crossed ones do kind of imply dual-wielding. Maybe sometime in the future, I really only need one right now, it's going to be my utility knife, staying on my hip or in my car.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Vrogy said:
I checked, and it is indeed L6, supposedly Scandinavian in origin.


Thought so, my eyes may be going but my mind is not. Good steel. Hope the Quench formula I sent you works out. I have used it many times, just have to remember after the quench to temper it to remove brittleness. L-6 calls for an oil quench but I have used the formula I sent you on L-6 and it has worked fine for me. Quench Temp 1450-1550 degrees*F for L-6. 300-500 degrees*F to temper L-6, should get you a Rockwell hardness of 63-55. Good news is L-6 has very low distortion in heat treating so for a large blade like this its good. Only down side is it wont have the flexibility of a spring steel so don't go prying with it.

Here is one of the best web sites for a tut on Kydex sheaths. As always if the link doesn't work copy and paste it into your browser. Hope this helps.

http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast...s_tutorials.htm

Oh by the way, I Like the twin burner forge you have in the background.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
PillowFire said:
next thread: a real assault rifle.

lol nice job, must be hard to work with metal.
LOL, i could see that happening.
BTW Fantastic work Vrogy, keep it up.

-Justin
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Vrogy

Well-Known Member
2151865489_0808b981e8_m.jpg 2152659122_8a570194b8_m.jpg
I hand-milled and carved the handle out of pink insulation foam.

2152663674_548019eba4_m.jpg 2151869463_f2f4aa7024_m.jpg
The blade tang is almost full, and was notched for extra hold. Also, widens towards end; the handle would need to be cracked in half for the blade to come out.

2151874185_fb703ddb31.jpg
The blade and foam had sprues added, and were buried in specially formulated sand.

2151875639_90c9446295.jpg
The pour was kind of odd, but didn't turn out too horribly.

2151883161_a37b277672_m.jpg 2151880741_456ea15411_m.jpg
Then we ground off the defects.

2152011757_a3e7b6a5c7.jpg
Emory was attacked by the spill.

2151885609_a20de6bfb8.jpg

Next up is drilling the grip pattern, maybe rounding the pommel and hilt, and coating the handle with plasti-dip.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top