Adhesives/glue questions

noobbuilder

New Member
I'm starting to put pieces together for a build, but I'm running into a couple of problems.

So far I've tried using Barge contact cement for 10mm foam pieces, but I'm pretty sure it was too cold for the glue to adhere to the foam, and using it in a heated room sounds way too risky. I'm very concerned about the lingering fumes, up to now I've done all the gluing/sanding work in the garage (I leave the garage door cracked open) but it gets used too often by other people and seems hazardous.

I've used a hot glue gun for smaller pieces and it seems to work well so far. Would it be as efficient for the larger 10mm pieces?

Otherwise, any suggestions for other types of adhesives/glue to use that are safer or more efficient?
 

PlanetAlexander

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
Firstly, good on ya for thinking of safety, and the safety of others.

Hot glue does work for larger pieces, and is a completely valid method, but if your armour gets hot the glue can warm up and even separate. Super glue is also an option, it works well for foam, but isn't quite as flexible as contact cement. You may consider gluing the foam together with hot glue, then gluing the outer edges with super glue - this gives two methods of adhesion, and with hot glue along the outer edge, makes it easier to sand and hide seams.

Are you sure that the contact cement hasn't thickened from old age, or by being left exposed to air for too long?
 

PaiganBoi

Sr Member
As PlanetAlexander mentioned, check your glue. It may have been exposed to air for a long period of time and has thickened up to the point it's too 'dry' to work properly. If that is the case it can be saved if you can get a hold of Barge brand thinner. Add small amounts and slosh/mix it around until it thins out a bit and flows like a freshly opened can.
If your Barge is fine, a cold/hot room will affect the curing time. Cold will take longer and hot will be shorter.
Just as long as you keep the can of cement away from a heat source you don't have to worry about it catching fire.
As odd as it may sound I do all my adhering of parts in a basement powder room. I close the door turn on the vent and wear a respirator. Once the can is closed and the parts are put together there is barely a lingering odour... Unless you put the part up to your nose an sniff....which I don't suggest doing.
 

noobbuilder

New Member
As far as I know it hasn't thickened, I opened it up two days ago, I likely just didn't give it enough time to cure (about ~1 min per piece). On the flip side, it seems that leaving the garage door open for a while seems to draw the smell out in about two hours. Would it be safe to enter the garage with no filters by that point?
 

NobleofDeath16

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
Stream Team
Member DIN
S511
5 minutes to 7 minutes is the optimal time it takes for Barge to properly become "tacky" and adhere for clean seams. It'll looks almost eggshell-like sheen which is also a good way to tell. Using a scrap piece of foam even to absolutely guarantee the entire surface is evenly coated is recommended as that's how you'll nail basically invisible seams.

As Alexander mentioned a couple different options different adhesives have different circumstances to go along with them. I personally use cement for parts that may experience some form of flex as its made for shoes by design, hot glue for backside seam reinforcement, and super glue for guaranteed static parts that need the rigidity it offers. No one option needs to be committed to. I also recommend checking out "Shoe Goo" to really get a sturdy finish for the inner side of your armor, it'll basically be indestructible after.

Hope this all helps, and I'd love to see some photos provided here of your build too! GIVE US THAT EYE CANDY!
 
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