Amount of Rubber


Jr Member
I'm planning on making a mold of my armor once i finish and was wondering how many gallons of Rubber (Silicon or Latex) i would need for a FULL suit of Mjolnir.

i would also like recommendations on which is better. Latex or Silicon.

thanks in advance!


Well-Known Member
silicone - as has been discussed elsewhere.

latex will shrink.

Many gallons. Cast your helm or some other piece, then you should have an idea of how much it will take.

Walter Spase

Well-Known Member
crazybunny said:
spase said it took the full 2 gallons for his helmet, so it would be alot
I did huh?..... well I actually only used 1 gallon of Silicone to create the mold for my helm...

And a full suit will take several gallon sized containers.... your looking at $1000 plus minimum to create a set of molds for your suit, minimum... but I really don't see how you could do it for anything less than $1500-$2000 minimum.
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Jr Member
Hmm, i thought i read somewhere you said that. Dosnt the rebound kit come with 2 gallons? 1 gallon of each mixture i think


Jr Member
Latex is perfectly suitable for armor molds. It only shrinks noticeably if you use cheap (i.e. high water, low solids) latex. I posted these in the greatest mold-making site thread.

A note on latex... When you have the patience to work with it, it's perfectly suitable for making larger i.e. armor molds. I use it for almost all my bigger pieces, helmets, predator armor, shields & set panels... On average, a well made mold takes me 2 to 3 days to make. I've done them in considerably less time, but usualy only for one-offs or emergency castings. I angle a 20" fan over my molding tables, & it dries each layer of latex in about 20-45 minutes, depending on temp & latex thickness.

An average mold is 10 to 15 layers... 2 to 4 'beauty' coats, directly on the model, then I use thickened latex for faster buildup & strength You use wood or pecan flour for this, I usualy use 2 to 4 cups per 2-quarts of latex depending on how 'stiff' I want it...
I do a layer of cheesecloth with the first thick layer, & let that dry for a good hour, then a couple more coats of thick, then a layer of burlap & thick, then 2 final finish coats of thick. Once it's done, it has to sit for a day, maby 2 depending on temp.... Leave the fan on it the entire time to draw of moisture.
Once the latex part is done, I do a mothermold or shell in either fiberglass or plaster & burlap. There is also a super-thick 2-part resin that you can brush or trowel on for a mothermold as well.

A well made latex mold will last for years of use, & was indeed the industry standard untill silicone became more readily available, & more affordable. I have cast both fiberglass & casting resin in latex molds, as well as wax, concrete, & plaster.
The main difference in casting between silicone & latex is that you HAVE to use a release agent to seal the latex when casting. For stones & plasters, I use liquid soap (dish soap), & for resins, I've used cooking spray, vasiline, WD40, silicone spray, etc... Keep in mind that any petrolium product will degrade latex, shortening it's useful life.

I mainly use Synlube release agents, they come in spraycans or jugs... I buy by the gallon & use a spray bottle to coat my molds. They have both silicone & non-silicone formulas, depending on what you're casting... I buy that locally, but ask John if he has or can get it or something similar...


I do want to add another note about latex. The very best place to order from price-wise is here-

Testworth Laboratories Inc.
401 S. Main St., PO Box 91
Columbia City, IN , 46725-2143
Phone: 260-244-5137
FAX: 260-244-5138

$95 shipping included for a 5 gallon pail. Gallon jugs are around $25 shipped.

They have many different formulas, from mold making, mask casting, to sprayable... Their's is the absolute highest quality of all I've used, & I've tried just about every brand out there over the past 20 years.
They don't have a real website ( old-school company, they've been in the latex biz since 1941), so call & ask for their current pricelist and catalog. The main 2 types I use from them are the 'slushing' for mask making, & the mold builder, wich is a thicker super-high solids lattex with additional additives for durability.

Another option is mold-making urathane, basicly the rubber version of casting resin. Personaly I hate the stuff, but it does work, & is very durable. My main problem with it is you have to soak it in release agent or it'll bond to your casting...
& sometimes it does it anyways. I usualy use about 6 coats of silicone release when I work with it. The plus side is that it's about $80 for 2 gallons. Twice the amount for the same price as a gallon of silicone.



Jr Member
wow... thanks herogear.

i read some thread about this John Greer dude. is his latex any good? if yes, could you recommend some formulas?


your the first person to give a COMPLETE response.


Jr Member
Greer's is perfectly fine, & it's good quality... Not as good as Testworth's mold-builder, but good for most purposes. Usualy I'll pick up a pail if I'm in a rush, as he takes paypal, while Testworth's does money orders, checks, & CC... I'm not sure if they still do COD, but you can ask.
I've done several molds & latex parts from Greer's latex & they have all worked fine. I did a helmet mold with it two years ago, & it's still in perfect condition after about a dozen pulls. He only has one kind of regular latex, the black stuff for doing concrete stamping & molds I haven't tried yet, but I am planning on getting a kit soon to see how it morks for both molds & flexible armor parts.