Backbone´s Mkvi Wip

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Aaron said:
if youre molding it, why not resin a pep piece, then insert detail and smoothing to it with the clay, then mold it? it would take less supplies especially if youre filling a whole piece. tell me if this is wrong, maybe i dont fully understand what youre doing. :)



Your right and wrong at the same time.



My biggest reason is that i don´t like resin very much.

I worked with it before, its messy and unhealthy. Shure, ther is Aqua resin, but it seems that there are no shops in germany who

have it.



pep-pieces tend to deform slightly. Its dificult to prevent deformations with resin.



It´s easyer to add details to clay then to resin, its much more intuitive. If you done something wrong you can just add more clay and start over.



But thats just me.
 
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oh, ok. i saw a cool video about armor making. it said to use aqua resin, but i could only find it online.
 
Interesting idea. I did something like it, but you've taken it one step further. I took wood boards, and cut a hollow in them with a jigsaw, then set them on top of a solid board. I then heated clay until it was very soft, some molten, and pressed/poured it into the cavity. Like this "mold", that was used to make a trim piece for the chestplate.



T8%20Chestplate%207Jun09%20002.jpg




I was using "Roma Plastilina" brand clay, and I found that after just a few iterations of melting it so hot, it lost a lot of its resiliency properties. It became drier, harder, and had a greater tendency to crack and peel instead of carve cleanly away. I do not attribute it to absorbing of oils into the wood, because after this one I began sealing the wood with a layer of lacquer. I just throw that out there, because I basically consider the clay ruined by the process of making my armor pieces, and it's not cheap at about $8 per 2lb (I used about $150 worth).



I like the idea of using the clay cleverly like this, but since I have no concerns about the resin fumes, I would have done it on the outside, like had been suggested. Using that much clay is quite an expense to avoid the fumes, for me.



Generally though, good job. Did you make the paper model larger, to compensate for the fact that you are carving from the model inward, instead of how it is typically built from the model outward with Bondo?
 
Yes, the surface of the clay is harder and tend to crumble. I still don´t know how the clay will behave later on jet.

But the small peaces that i carved out are soft again after some kneading with enough pressure.



I just scaled it to fit me perfectly. The critical part on the shins are the openings. It might be o.k. but we´l see about that later on.

I´m still just experimenting here.
 
You can reuse and return some of the properties back to clay the next time you heat it up add a very little Mineral Oil to the clay and knead in to the piece then once it is complete mixed in it will act like the day you bought it.

for 20lbs I would think a teaspoon of oil will do it to much oil and it will get very soft and will leach as it sits on the piece and then get in to the molds and destroy the silicon.Also the Sulfur in Roma Clay will cause bad reactions in the silicon mold if your using certain silicon so make sure you ask when ordering your mold making material it happens sometimes with Fiberglass molds as well, which in the case of the shin should be a easy way of making a mold, or at least help you save money when making the flexible mold.
 
BackBONE said:
My biggest reason is that i don´t like resin very much.

I worked with it before, its messy and unhealthy. Shure, ther is Aqua resin, but it seems that there are no shops in germany who

have it.



There are alternatives to Aqua-Resin in Europe if you are interested in toxic free resins. Look into either Jesmonite or Acrylic One. Acrylic One is based in the Netherlands I think, and shouldn't be too expensive to have shipped to Germany.
 
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Hi^^ I just have one quick question: How do you keep the clay wet? Without warping alot of plastic bags around it, so you don't destroy the model?
 
Jico said:
Hi^^ I just have one quick question: How do you keep the clay wet? Without warping alot of plastic bags around it, so you don't destroy the model?





Oil base you don't need to keep it "wet" water based clay is tough you can wrap wet paper towels around it then plastic bags which should work and not damage to much so long as the towels aren't to wet.I was once told about a sculptor that used a mister ring to keep the the piece wet he made sort of a fog mist unit out of a plastic bag and a mist fog unit and made a tent out of the bag and placed the mister at the bottom to cause a wet fog. I have never seen it work or have tried but other than that I really only use waterbased clay as a wall in mold making....





hope that helps,
 
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ghostartist said:
Oil base you don't need to keep it "wet" water based clay is tough you can wrap wet paper towels around it then plastic bags which should work and not damage to much so long as the towels aren't to wet.I was once told about a sculptor that used a mister ring to keep the the piece wet he made sort of a fog mist unit out of a plastic bag and a mist fog unit and made a tent out of the bag and placed the mister at the bottom to cause a wet fog. I have never seen it work or have tried but other than that I really only use waterbased clay as a wall in mold making....





hope that helps,

Thanks:) ill have to order oil based clay when the weather is getting warmer hereXD
 
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