Cheap Vacuum Table Tutorial

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Long Shot

For those of you who want to form your own parts over and over but dont have the big bucks, this simple table is for you. At a cost of around $35 it is not only cheap, but simple and effective. >>If you have any questions regarding the table feel free to PM me or post them here.

**Note: The overall price is assuming you have all the tools already, or can get them, And that you have a shop vac. Most people do so I am pricing this as if you had one.

>1/16" Drillbit with countersink
>Saw-capable of at least cutting 24" long pieces
>Belt Sander- To give a finished look
>Wood Glue
>T Square
>1/8" Drill bit
>1" Drill bit

2 > 24"x24"x1/2" pieces of plywood $15
14+' > 1"x1" pine (amount depends on sive of the over) $5
12 > 1" coarse wood screws $.02
2 > 2"L x 1"w hinges (screws included) $2
1 > 1 1/4"x2 1/2" shop vac adapter(or what ever size yours requires) $4
1 > 1 1/4" threaded frale pipe flange $4
1 > Roll of Door Weather stripping $3
1 > Shop Vac (price not included since most homes have one, but if not $35-50)

PART I: The Table Top

First begin by looking at both pieces of plywood and see which one has the smoothest surface, that one will become your top. The other one will be your bottom.

Next take your 1"x1" pine and cut 2 22" pieces and 2 24" pieces and put them together like this to form a frame. Apply glue to the seams then clamp together and let it dry overnight.

Your next step is to glue the wooden frame to the bottome piece of plywood.

Lay a bead of wood glue all the way around the edge of the base.

Place the frame over top of it and clamp it into place allowing it to dry overnite
Now flip the base/frame assembley over and draw a line from corner to corner diagonaly

Where the lines intersect is where you are going to drill your 1" hole

After the hole is drilled flip the assembly back over so you are looking at the inside. To achieve a nice seal run a bead of caulk all around the interior seam and let it dry for a few days before proceeding.

Now that the first bead of caulk has dried apply a second bead along the top interior edge of the frame and then a bead of wood glue around the center of the frame.

After both beads are applied place the plywood square on top with the good side facing up and clamp it into place and let it dry overnight. It Should now look like a sandwhich

Now the base need to be completed, so flip the whole thing over so you can see the bottom. Now you need to drill holes (1/16") and put screws where there are dots on the diagram. Remember to sink the screw head below the surface.

The 4 holes around the center are for your threaded pipe flange. To line them up just center the flange over the holeand make marks on the wood. Do not attach it yet.

You have now completed your table top assembly.
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PART II: Vacuumizing the table top

Now it is time to make some air tight vacuum attachments with the blow torch.
Heat up the flange for about 3min and then thread the plastic shop vac adapter into it. I recomend putting the flange inside a vice due to the heat but it can be done with out one.

Once you have threaded about 3/4" of the plastice take it out and let both pieces cool down.

Use the knife to cut off any plastice that may affect the airflow.
Apply a bead of caulk around the plastic and then rethread it into the flange.

Next apply a bead of caulk around the bottmo of the flange then fasten it to the base.

The bottom shout look like this.

More Coming soon.....Tonight
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definitely going to build one of these, thanks for the tutorial. I can't wait to see how you build the heating component... :hyper:
Interesting...I'm going to bookmark this in case I ever am able to sculpt a good enough model to make a mould of.
GDan said:
I can't wait to see how you build the heating component... :hyper:

He probably just lays the plastic over the part and use the torch to heat the plastic then closes it up and uses the vaccuum. Primitive, but effective nonetheless.
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