Crossfires Pep Helm

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I used DF4L's smooth model and Frost's hot glue idea in the inside.
Heres a link to my old topic:
Just finished sanding and put one coat of primer on today.



There are still some spots that need to be fixed.
I also picked up this truckbed liner spray at Walmart that I'm going to try on my helmet.


Sorry for double post but new pictures


I sprayed it with a truck bed liner that gave it a hard flexible coat. and a texture much like the real one


New Member
That baby looks amazing.

I want to know, how is the strength on it? Like, will it bend or dent if you drop it, or is it fairly well reinforced? Or alternatively, could you potentially damage it with just your hands?


Jr Member
Crossfire said:
No resin. Hot glue and cardboard in inside acted as resin and fiberglass. outside is bondo glazing and spot putty,

Wow that's awesome! How did you get the inside to be cardboard? Did you cut small pieces of cardboard and stick them to the inside? Also, is spot putty the same as bondo body filler?

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Its tough enough that I can drop it from chest level and roll it around with out any scratches or cracks.
To get cardboard on the inside i cut small pieces of thick and thin cardboard and then hot glued them in leaving a gap of at most a inch.
I've never worked with real bondo but the spot putty was easy to smooth and sand.


New Member
Where'd you find the spot putty? I'm interested in using it on my helm, seeing as you did a great job with it on yours, but I can't seem to find it anywhere.


Jr Member
Really nice man, whenever I make my helmet i'll use that bed liner, how long does it take to dry though?

on a quick note, jake the snake roberts what the man ^


Heres a picture of one layer of oregano. I taped over all the parts I want to keep black.

I found the spot putty in the same area of walmart as the real bondo, in the automotive section.

the truck bed coating was right under it.

It takes about 1hr to dry in about 60 degree weather. Can says to spray coats every 10 minutes or so to build up strength.
I also bought leds yeasterday

Sigma LS

Sr Member
How did you keep the spot sputty from cracking as it dried? Did you just apply it in very thin coats? Just wondering as that's what I initially tried on my CQB and made a mess of it.

I have to say it looks really awesome! More Updates!


More pictures. went back and touched up some spots that weren't taped properly


I actually used a thick coat first. then did some lighter ones.
To fix the cracks from the spot putty i sprayed the truck bed liner. It filled in the holes and helped hide any other imperfections.

Now i need to install the LEDs and padding. and find a visor.
I might or might not do battle damage
its lookin nice, i love how easy it is to finish the smooth helmet.. :D it comes out even better than i would have hoped, ive only seen a few people including my own that have done it.. this is the first pic if seen of the second version built.

also,, everyone keeps crying about how many flaps my model has, personally i thought it was really easy, most of the flaps pretty much fell into place, although there were a few that were tough.. first hand input, id like to know how hard you thought the actual papercaft build was..


I thought it was very easy. the first model i tried before yours was slyfos and that has pretty tough.
I also did not use all the flaps. on some parts i would leave two flaps together or just go every other flap. and cut off the extra.

Great model!


Jr Member
So let me get this straight:
first layer is paper (aka pep helm)
second layer (inside) is cardboard strips stuck on with hot glue
third layer (outside) is putty

Am I correct in this? If I am, we, the community, demand a (small) tutorial by either you or Frost. This could potentially be the cheapest alternative to resin and fiberglass.
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