Dash's 3d print thread

xXDashIVXx

Sr Member
Do you use a glass bed by chance? I've been meaning to pick one up because I've also had bad adhesion, leading to knocked over supports, warping/scraping the top layer (and pulling it off the bed), etc. Granted, I haven't had quite as many issues as you have, since PLA is so much easier to print with, but adding a raft for pieces that use lots of small supports might be worth your while. Failed prints really suck, and when there's a potential for one, I don't mind the extra "insurance" that a raft gives by keeping the supports from falling.
I have a glass plate with blue painters tape over it, and sometimes I add hairspray. I also use a brim to better anchor the peices down. I think nocking the peice over may have been my fault as there were some balls of fillament collecting on top of i tall and skinny pole that was printing, and I may have loosened it when trying to remove them. Adhesion has not been a problem in the past, but I fell like it is shrinking and pulling itself of the bed or just not anchoring down now...
 

Coreforge

Member
I've had good experience with PVA on glass. I just coat my print bed with watered down PVA glue every few prints (you can see if it came of in some places as the surface will look shiny instead of matt), let it dry and make sure my first layer adheres well. My print bed isn't really calibrated at all (just some leveling by eye, it literally is two sheets of glass from scanners on top of a cheap wooden board), so I have some variance in height, but as long as the first layer isn't too thick, it should work. It should always be a solid layer without random gaps, but in my experience it's fine if you can kinda see through it, although that is pretty thin. I really had to work some prints off as they nearly adheared too well. I've only tested this with PLA, but it should work with PETG as well, even if maybe not as well, since it leaves a slightly rough surface.
 
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