Destiny 2 Stryker's Sure Hand build


tahu505

Member
This is the start of my official build thread for my Stryker's Sure Hand from Destiny 2 that I modeled. I've decided that I'm personally going to make my version 2 of the model which will have the steel beam reinforcements.

I'm going to try to make this thread like a set of instructions as I make this build in order to help anyone else who wants to build their own sword. The STLs are available for purchase here 3D printable model Strykers Sure Hand | CGTrader

Today I printed out my first part, SSH V2 Part 1. I used 10% infill and 0.2mm layer height. Currently the second SSH V2 Part 1 is being printed. Since all of the parts were cut in half and are symmetrical, each of the 4 parts will be printed out twice for a total of 8 parts.
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tahu505

Member
After printing out two of the SSH V2 Part 1, I printed out my first SSH V2 Part 2. I used the same infill and layer height for part 1. Personally I wish I did 0.1mm layer height instead so I would have less filling and sanding to do, but oh well, I'm going to stick with it to keep everything consistent. Also even though it would have fit on the bed normally, I decided to rotate the part 45 degrees just to be sure there was enough space. I am currently printing on a 400x400mm bed, but if you're printing on something like a Cr10 s5, which has a 500x500mm bed, then there should be plenty of room no matter the angle. I have now started printing my second SSH V2 Part 2

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tahu505

Member
I decided to print out both of the SSH V2 Part 3's at the same time using the same infill and layer height as the previous parts. Unfortunately one of the parts warped around the edge so I'm going to reprint it. Each part is only about 40g of filament so it's not too big of a deal, plus stuff like this happens every now and then when printing. For now, here's the part that came out good and how it's supposed to look. Once the second copy is done printing I'm going to move on to printing the parts of the last file.

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tahu505

Member
Printed out both of the SSH V2 Part 4's again with the same infill and layer height as the last parts
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Those were the last two 3d printed parts so here's what all 8 of the parts should look like separately
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I also picked up the steel rods that fit in the inside slots for reinforcement. There should be 4 rods each 1/4in in diameter and 15in for length. I picked out two 36in steel rods at Home Depot and was able to get them cut by an employee at the tool rental section.
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I also wanted to see how well the rods fit into the parts before I start assembling them and they fit perfectly in place! Not too tight and not too loose.
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tahu505

Member
I started assembling the sword today. I decided to start off with the handle and the tip of the blade. The first thing that I did was lightly sand all of the sides that will be covered with an adhesive so that way it will have something to grip to. It might be hard to see but if you closely look, this is one of the parts after sanding.
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After sanding, I wiped away any dust or dirt to prepare for laying down the adhesive. I ended up using super glue which works really well with PLA plastic and not too much is needed. Once the rods and both halves of the parts were glued together, I pressed down on them for a bit to make sure there was good contact. One of the halves for the handle was slightly curved (I think it was from when I removed it from the print bed) so I used some clamps that were around to help hold it together while the glue dries. The box for the glue said it will take 24 hrs for it to fully cure, so I just left the parts as seen below and I'll let them sit there until they're fully cured.
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tahu505

Member
Just finished filling and sanding the sword to get rid of all the print lines and layer skips. I ignored filing and sanding the handle since I plan on covering it with a wrap in the end so no of the lines will be seen anyway. For the rest of the sword though, I started off by using bondo spot putty to fill in any large and easily noticeable gaps in the print.
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Next I coated it with two thick layers of primer/filler then sanded it by hand with 150 grit sandpaper.
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From here I gave it a light coat of primer/filler to both help fill in more layer lines and make it easier to see where any imperfections are. Wherever there was an imperfection I would fill it in with either the bondo spot putty or a thick spray of filler/primer in the area depending on the size and depth of the imperfection. Then I would sand it by hand again to see how smooth I could get it. These last steps were repeated until I was satisfied with how smooth it was.
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This is how it turned out when I was done.
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tahu505

Member
Painting is Done! (Large photo dump time)

Here's the paint I used
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I started off with with the primer then used the silver on the blade and the disks at the top and bottom of the handle
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Next I taped up all the edges where I wanted to keep the silver and painted over that with black
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Leaving the previous tape on, I added more tape and covered up every still exposed area except for where the red details go
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Before I could put on the red I had to paint it silver where all the red was going to be. This is because the red would come out dull if I panted it directly on top of the black paint and I wanted the colors to pop. Once the silver was dry, I painted the red
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After letting the red paint dry I pulled off all of the tape and sprayed it with a gloss clear coat
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tahu505

Member
Last step of the build! Leather handle wrap

I purchased this leather and contact cement from Tandy Leather. After tightly wrapping the handle with leather, I unwrapped a little bit of both ends and applied contact cement. Once it was tacky I tightly re-wrapped it. This video here also really helped out with learning how to work with the leather so I recommend checking it out:
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Finished prop!
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Now to find that one dreg in the EDZ to test this out!
 

TecnicoNinja

New Member
Last step of the build! Leather handle wrap

I purchased this leather and contact cement from Tandy Leather. After tightly wrapping the handle with leather, I unwrapped a little bit of both ends and applied contact cement. Once it was tacky I tightly re-wrapped it. This video here also really helped out with learning how to work with the leather so I recommend checking it out:
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Finished prop!
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Now to find that one dreg in the EDZ to test this out!
that came out pretty awesome!
 
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