Detailed construction tutorial: Halo 4 MK VII Foam Biceps (file in the 405th db)

EVAkura

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
This is a detailed construction tutorial for the Halo 4 Mk VII Bicep part. Once finished, it should look similar to this:

SAM_1471_zps857d07d9.jpg

FIRST AND FOREMOST, due credit must be given. Model by L3X BLU3R1V3R, Unfold by L3X BlU3r1V3R, and Foam Conversion by Rainbow Dash.

This bicep file can be found here.

Tools required:

EVA foam - This build utilizes approx. 1 - 2' X 2' sheet of EVA Foam for both left and right shoulders
Craft Foam - 2" X 8" of 2mm craft foam will be sufficient
*Scalpel handle with #11 blades (I used just one blade and sharpened it between each piece at a minimum)
Ball point pen
Printed templates. I used the default size of H:119mm W:106mm D:180mm
*Box Cutter blade - I use the small, rectangle, single edge ones (the kind you put in a cheap box-cutter)
*Cutting mat (or other surface to protect your table or whatever is under your foam!)
Hot glue gun
*High temp glue sticks (I ONLY use hot temp and not low or multi-temp ones... they make a difference!)
Heat gun
*Dremel with barrel sander bit (120 grit)

* indicates optional or personal preference. I have found that using these items generally yield superior builds if used correctly.

Ok, now for the pep file template.

SAM_1460a_zps7b67d07f.jpg

And my cut-outs

SAM_1472_zps5986dfd6.jpg

Prepping the template file:

You will need to search through the pieces that are outside the 2D area that represent parts #5 and #7. To do this, hover over the 2D side and zoom out until the parts in the upper right corner of that panel appear. Once you find them, you will need to drag them back into the template panel. Please note: This requires Pepakura Designer to accomplish. If you are using Viewer, you will need to freehand these pieces. I will go over that more in a bit.

Remember, these instructions and cut-outs are for only one side (Left or right, they are the same). If you plan on making two full pieces, you will need to do this twice.

Let's go over the parts:

#1. Where the blue lines are in the template picture is where you will want to hand draw on your printed piece. Cut them out so it looks like the ones I have in the foam photo.

#2. This is cut out just like it is on the template.

#3. Same as #2

#4 As drawn in blue on the template picture, you will need to basically double these. also, they are mirrored, so you will need to cut the opposite as well, like in my foam cut-out photo.

#5 If you have designer, you will need to smooth the lines a bit, but the basic shape and size is what we are looking for here. If you do not have Designer, you will need to freehand draw and cut these template pieces yourself. Using the template picture as reference, here are the dimensions. The short sides are 3/4" and the long sides are 1 3/4". Don't forget to add a bit of a curve to one side (it has approx. a 1/8" rise and drop). This piece will be cut out of the 2mm craft foam.

#6 Cut this out just like it is on the template.

#7 Just like #5, but these are only 1/2" on the short sides. The rest of the dimensions and shape are the same. This piece will be cut out of the 2mm craft foam.

#8 Cut this out just like it is on the template.

#9 This is a custom cut. Taking the templates you used from #5 and #7, lay them out so that they are parallel with each other on the long side that does not have the curve. The space between should be 1/8". Then, you will draw around the outside, leaving 1/8" gap. This will give you this piece's pattern.

#10 This is also a custom cut and is a bit more tricky to come up with. Here is how it is made. Curving the part you made (cut out EVA, not the template) to approximately what I am showing in the picture below, trace the outside edge onto your cardstock. Then, follow the measurements in the photo.

SAM_1474_zps6bf7d38a.jpg

#11 These are custom cut, and will be used as buffer pieces. Accuracy is not imperative here, but try to keep it close. The long edge is 1" and the short edge is 1/2". You will need four of these.

Next post will be the heat shaping, cutting angles and assembling.
 

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EVAkura

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
Now it is time to build. This is one of the easier builds to make, but I will stress that the cuts you make should be crisp and accurate.

I started on the top of the end plates. For part #9, cut a 45 degree angle on the ends, and also on the curve edge of part #10. This is where these two pieces will be joined and this will make a flush joined edge. Now, cut a 45 degree angle on the bottom edge of #9 (they should be the same, slightly curved shape, so just choose one, and this will become your bottom edge) Heat shape part #9 so that it is convex. Now you can join parts #10 to either end. (NOTE: if you have not already done so, be sure that you have mirrored part #10 in the cut-out stage). Then, glue your craft foam from cut-out #5 & #7. Keep approx. a 1/8" gap between them. The photo below shows one part assembled, and one with just the parts.

SAM_1462_zps42df604d.jpg

Next will be parts #2 (or #3) & #8. Cut a 45 degree angle around all of #8, minus the top. Recess the 4 rectangles that are in the center approx. 1/8" and glue in place. Then, using the angles on the lower part of #8 as reference, draw lines on the bottom of part #2 (or #3) for your contour cuts. Where the pen and razor are, that cut only needs to be a slit, the others are "v" shaped (see photo below). Recess the part on either the left side for #2 or the right for #3 by approx. 1/8" and glue in place. Heat form this piece and glue to #8.

SAM_1475_zpse20c9d84.jpg

Now take part #1 and make contour cuts in the back, using the photo below as reference.

SAM_1476_zps33a84c5b.jpg

Still on part #1, and on the top side now, make sure that the original, lower line on the template is drawn and cut into the EVA at a 90 degree vertical angle on that line. Do not go all the way through. Then, from the inside, cut about a 60 degree angle towards the vertical line you just cut (see photo below). Heat form, and check to make sure that the assembled parts from #2 (or #3) and #8 fit. There should be about 1/8" lip. Cut out the excess in the center portion as this will get in the way when you glue the pieces together. Just make sure that you leave enough to glue to. I chose to leave about 1/4" overlap .Now, take the little rectangle piece at the bottom and glue it to where it will be almost at the same height as the parts #2 (or #3) and #8 when they are installed.

SAM_1463_zpsd4869600.jpg

It should now look like this:

SAM_1464_zpsccd5a9af.jpg

Take this part you just made, and the part that was assembled in the first steps and glue them together. The connections are a weird, so you may have to add a backer piece just to stabilize it a bit better.

Now take part #4 (and the mirrored piece), and cut halfway into the foam on the line that bisects the part. Then, from the bottom (just choose one side and that will become the bottom), cut up to the cut you just made. This will make a "step". Then, from the top, cut a 45 degree angle. This sounds really confusing, but if you look at the photo below, hopefully it becomes easier to understand. You will use the step to glue to part #2 (or #3), and it will also sit flush to the upper assembly of parts #7, #9, and #10.

SAM_1465_zps7ae2a9bc.jpg

For part #6, recess the inner piece about 1/8" and glue in place. Then, take part #11 and cut about a 60 degree angle down the length of the long side of each of them. This will then be attached to the back of the assembled ends, on each side. This part will act as a tab to give extra adhesion for when the sides (part #6) is attached. The following photos demonstrate this.

Attaching the tabs (part #11) to the end pieces.

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Attaching the side (part #6) to the tabs (part #11).

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View from the outside. Be sure that the parts align like they do here. The end and sides are not supposed to be flush with each other. Repeat for other side/end.

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Test fit!

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This completes this tutorial :) I hope you have found this helpful, and if you have any questions or comments, please feel free to provide them.
 

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Demogorgon

Well-Known Member
You are the Foam Guru, sir. Very nice work. These tutorials will really help newcomers as well of novices when working with foam.
 

EVAkura

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
You are the Foam Guru, sir. Very nice work. These tutorials will really help newcomers as well of novices when working with foam.
Thank you! That is certainly my goal! This one in particular, was a direct request... but I figured I would share with everyone just the same :)
 

EVAkura

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
To add to this, I am working on a custom template for the shoulders. Here is what I came up with last night.

SAM_1482_zpsc600a951.jpg

SAM_1481_zpse0f6389c.jpg

I am not pleased with them yet, as I need to make a few adjustments. Once I get that all worked out, I will publish the templates for you all.
 

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Masterchief0624

Member
To add to this, I am working on a custom template for the shoulders. Here is what I came up with last night.

SAM_1482_zpsc600a951.jpg

SAM_1481_zpse0f6389c.jpg

I am not pleased with them yet, as I need to make a few adjustments. Once I get that all worked out, I will publish the templates for you all.
43381095.jpg


Thank you for helping us out with the templates :) Keep up the amazing work.
 

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WandererTJ

Well-Known Member
To add to this, I am working on a custom template for the shoulders. Here is what I came up with last night.
I am not pleased with them yet, as I need to make a few adjustments. Once I get that all worked out, I will publish the templates for you all.
:O
Awesomesauce.
The trim around the edges........ how???
 

EVAkura

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
:O
Awesomesauce.
The trim around the edges........ how???
I simply cut a constant 1/8" around the main body (except in the corner, where it has that little extra detail bit), then glued it back in place, just 1/8" higher :)
 
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