dremel tool

[Zero Prime]

Okay I don't know if this had been asked before and I cant find anything relaets to it so here we go.
Next week i am buying a dremel rotary tool and i was wandering what kind of heads will i ned to buy i will mainly use it to make openings bigger, cutting out the visor, cutting the chest piece, and cutting the chest piece in half so what heads should i buy

This is the one i am getting http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dremel-100-N-6-120V-Single-Speed-Rotary-Tool/15173789

 

[JUSTINIAN 117]

Usually the dremel comes with a few things.

But the best things to have are cutting wheels (don't go to cheep, because they break easily) and the basic sanding ones are what I mainly use. Play with the bits that come with the dremel, before you go out and buy a bunch, that you may not use.

 

[ventrue]

Next week i am buying a dremel rotary tool and i was wandering what kind of heads will i ned to buy i will mainly use it to make openings bigger, cutting out the visor, cutting the chest piece, and cutting the chest piece in half so what heads should i buy

This is the one i am getting http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dremel-100-N-6-120V-Single-Speed-Rotary-Tool/15173789

Don't buy the Dremel 100, it has only one speed setting (i.e. you can turn it on and that's it). It's better to get a Dremel 300 (has multiple speed settings) with as few accessories as possible (because the 5000 piece family pack contains mostly cheap stuff and half of it is useless for building props, while all the good stuff is missing).

Get the accessories you need separately:

• Sanding bands are important. All three grit sizes and preferably a separate mandrel for each as well, to make your life easier. I only have the ones with the larger diameter and haven't missed the smaller ones so far. Also get replacement bands, they wear out rather quickly. (#408, #432 and #445 are the 1/2" band six-packs, #407 is the 1/2" mandrel with a 60 grit band)
• If you really want to take your sanding to the next level, there are finishing buffs with higher grit sizes that complement the bands. I like them, they are nice to work with. Use safety glasses, pieces will fly away. Also keep in mind that these use the EZ lock mandrel that (surprise..) comes separately. If you plan on changing between lots of EZ attachments, it's faster to get multiple EZ mandrels and a multi chuck though. (#511E is a two-pack with a 180 and a 240 grit buff, #512E is a two-pack of two 320 grit buffs, #EZ402 is just the EZ Lock Mandrel, #EZ406 is the mandrel with a few metal cut-off wheels)
• Cut-off wheels are pretty basic, you should have some. I haven't had one break yet, but they do wear out pretty fast along the edge, particularly if you set the tool's speed too high. This is an example where variable speed comes in handy. The mandrel for these also comes separately (huge variety of different types, sizes and packages, check what's there. The mandrel is #402 or #EZ402, depending on the wheel)
• A cutting bit is useful as well (looks a bit like a drill, but isn't one). (#561)
• To "make openings bigger" you may want to consider a toothed cutter (or, more formally, a "structured tooth tungsten carbide cutter"; price tag is equally long), these things eat up material in no time and are rather fun to work with, even if just for the destructive potential. They are not a replacement for sanding bands however, because they leave distinct scratch marks that need to be sanded down afterwards. Pick your favourite shape. Note that the tip, as usual, cuts really poorly.
• If you want to do some detailing as well, cutters (without the teeth) are the thing to get. There's a huge variety here and it's best to look at them at a real shop, because the images on the web don't quite give you the right impression of their shape and size (they usually look a lot larger on the web). Get one or two basic ones first to get a feeling for them, this will help you determine which shapes work best for you. I think the whole teal carving section will work on plastic.
• If you have some money left at the end, I'd also highly recommend the Dremel Chuck. Using this little wrench thingy is just a pain, especially if you are using accessories with varying diameters and have to switch collets all the time as well. If you don't want the Chuck, but do want to use accessories with different diameters, you need collets of that respective size, the Dremel itself only comes with one and very fine accessories will not fit in there. (#4486 is the Dremel Chuck, collets are available separately or as a set with all four)

What you do NOT need for prop making (assuming you're going the fibreglass way) are metal brushes, grinding stones, polishing stuff, chainsaw sharpener attachments or other fancy stuff. You will notice that some sets literally consist of 50% polishing and grinding accessories.

 

[Boba Fett]

I have a Dremel Stylus, it's wonderful. Cutting wheels are a must, as well as sanding drums. Other than that, experiment with what works.

 

[J326]

should I get the 4000 because i like the stats on it better than the 300 but I want to know if there are any testimonies on which to choose.

 

[BLACKULA727]

should I get the 4000 because i like the stats on it better than the 300 but I want to know if there are any testimonies on which to choose.

I have the 4000. It's the bomb. But, I didn't need any of the attachments that came with it except the reinforced cutting wheels & sanding wheels. Its good though.

 

[ForsakEnd]

I use the Dremel 400 XPR my fav attachment is the flex shaft pen attachment for better,easier detailing

 

[Zero Prime]

what about when i need to cut plexiglass?

 

[ventrue]

what about when i need to cut plexiglass?

Then you definitely need slow speeds, since plastic (not only plexiglass) tends to melt when you work on it with higher speeds. That's not particularly bad if you just want to quickly cut a 2 mm thick sheet with a cut-off wheel, but it'll ruin your day (and your work, and probably your accessory as well) when you want to do something more advanced, like carving something in.

You can use cut-off wheels or a cutting bit for cutting and if you want to get good straight and/or parallel edges or circles, I'd suggest you get the circle cutter and straight edge attachment (#678-01; requires the cutting bit from my last post). Finishing buffs work great to make plastic opaque, in case you want to do something like that, and as I said, all the cutters should work. Be careful with toothed cutters, they melt the plastic really quickly and get clogged by it, rendering them useless unless you can clean them somehow.

 

[Zat German]

Cut off wheels suck for plastic at any speed. Use the real toothed High Speed Cutter #199 at around 1500 to 2500 rpm.

 

[Spitfire22V]

I've had a Dremel 400 XPR for a few years now, and I love it. The main attachments I use for armor making are cutting wheels and sanding drums. Now, you may not have the money, but if you can, try to get Carbide cutting wheels or even a Diamond coated wheel. I love them, they cut through most materials (such as hardened fiberglass and Bondo in this case) like butter.

 

[ventrue]

Cut off wheels suck for plastic at any speed. Use the real toothed High Speed Cutter #199 at around 1500 to 2500 rpm.

I haven't tried plexiglass, but they do work on ABS sheets of around 2-3 mm thickness. Just needs some practice. I have to agree though that they're not exactly fun to use ;-)

 

[J326]

I need a professional opinion. I'm stuck on choosing either the Dremel 300 or the 4000. If you have used or own both which is better or if there is really that much of a noticeable difference? im leaning towards the 300 because it wont burn a hole in my wallet since the 4000 is around $40 more than the 300. any opinions? is the 4000 worth the extra $ or is the 300 the same tool at a lower price? what can i do with one that i can't do with the other?

 

[Kissker]

I have a rotary tool from black and decker, I used to have a battery dremel but the bat died out and replacement was more then 1/2 the cost of a new tool.

The BandD is amazing.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Decker-3-Speed-RTX-Rotary-Tool-Model-RTX-B/9714694

I mean it's only $30 but don't let a slim price fool ya, this sucker is amazing for this work.

The biggest thing to remember is no matter what one you get - it's how you use it. Forcing cutting blades or PUSHING the tool into the item will turn out badly - let the tool do the work, the cutting wheels just barely touch the material to cut - they sand away at it until a cut is made, if you push a cutting wheel into fiberglass - it's more then likely going to shatter and possibly do damage to your item or worse, yourself. At the first sign of chipping/wear - discontenue use of the cutting wheel and replace it. An uneven cutting wheel (a dent in one side, etc) will only cause problems and is only a matter of time before it shatters. Gentle touches win with Rotary Tools, especially Powered Ones.


It's got multi speed support for all needs (cutting, sanding, grinding, etc) plus the grip is amazing and you can even get special attachements and blah blah.

The only thing I don't like is sometimes when using it - your hand blocks the vent - it'll get warm pretty quick but if you keep your eye on the vents it works out well.

OH and remember to get the right size collet nuts for your parts - if your going for anything but standard use. I had to figure this out the hard way. lol.

Typically you need many (50+) Cutting Wheels and Sanding Drums, these are the most commonly used things, and they are inexpesive (especially if you find them in bulk of like 50 or 100 packs online) then when you go through one you don't feel so bad. Reinforced cutting wheels are wonderful for 'near finished' cutting, through multiple layers of bondo/fiberglass etc but you can get similar results just using more cutting wheels, depends on price when I buy them.

Drill attachments are good too, in case you want to do wiring/add parts/etc
but most the other stuff is a rare use - I haven't etched anything into anything yet or polished anything.

 

[thorn696]

Start with the cheaper one. then once you get used to them get the nice one. I have bought 3 and I'm looking at a smaller cordless one right now. (Now time for the disclaimer)Be careful of what add on's you use with the cheap one. Example the long flex cord for detailing will only work on high setting with the cheap one, this can heat up way to fast and cause burns. Were with the high end rotary tool hanging on a stand works really nice with that kit. Yes I have the drill press and router too. I use my cheaper rotary tool in those kits.