Duke's Custom Reach Suit Pep +photos!! *WIP

Discussion in 'Halo Pepakura Costumes' started by PerniciousDuke, May 24, 2016.

  1. mblackwell1002


    Dude, if I showed you how much Bondo I use, you would laugh. None. I use tiny blobs of spot putty in tiny amounts at a time to get rid of 3D print lines and seams. It takes sooooo looong to wipe those seams from existence. I'm going for the "cast-worthy" approach, so i'm trying to get it as close to perfect as possible, which results in a lot of sanding on something so tiny. Lots of intricate sanding.
    Dirtdives likes this.
  2. electricknite


    Is bondo required at all? like its only for finishing right? the build should be strong enough after fiberglass.

    mblackwell1002 im doing a 3d printed magnum too, I know how you feel... :confused:
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  3. Dirtdives


    Maybe you need to work on your upper body.....? giphy (26).gif
  4. TurboCharizard

    TurboCharizard RMO 405th Regiment Officer

    Life as a propmaker is hard.

  5. PerniciousDuke


    Hahaha, nice one TurboCharizard

    Dirtdives , blackwell is sanding plastic... it is harder than sanding bondo. Bondo is meant to be sanded. Plastic just melts. It is pretty miserable.

    But, if I were to give advice mblackwell1002 it's using the right tools that matter. I have a sanding block, works a lot better than just paper by itself, a lot faster. But, it doesn't do curves very well. I also have power sanders which can sand through things it shouldn't pretty quick. So you just have to know when to use the right ones for the right jobs.


    For this weekend I didn't really do a lot of sanding. I spent 16 hours just applying bondo. There were some spots where the paper got warped or whatever and that took a lot of layers to get it back to a good base level. Apart from that just taking my time making sure I wasn't applying too much bondo and losing details.

    All of my pieces now have one full coat of bondo!

    The second coat will go a lot quicker, but there will be a lot of sanding to do now. My goal is bondo 100% done by the end of december. Then I'll start painting.
  6. Schankerz


    AHHHHHH YES, PAINTIIIING!! I'm sooooo excited to see this suit painted, I absolutly love the way the helmet looks so I can't wait to see the rest of it done as well!

    Apologies if you mentioned this recently and I didn't see it but I wanted to ask whats been going on with the Brute shot? I remember last seeing it when you showed it too me in a video chat a while ago, where the end blade had bent slightly I think? Cursed memory ain't as young as it used to be :lol:.
  7. PerniciousDuke


    Good question. Yes, a lot of the lack of progress has been due to the discouragement of the bruteshot warping. Also... Not game accurate as I'm making a halo reach suit and that game doesn't have that gun, not sure if the gun existed that early. I wonder if the Brute shot was in halo wars??

    I'm leaning towards finishing the reach shotgun 3d printed as my companion. What are your guy's thoughts?
  8. Dirtdives


    The shotgun!!!!! Nothing like a shotgun for those close encounters..........But then again....all I remember in the games was getting knifed in the back by PerniciousDuke......repeatedly.......
    Schankerz and PaiganBoi like this.
  9. Schankerz


    Yeeessssss, definitely shotgun, loooove that Reach shotgun and I think it'll go well with the armour set.
    Dirtdives likes this.
  10. PerniciousDuke


    Thanks for the feedback!

    Another weekend push begins now.
    Wish me luck.
    Dirtdives, SI3RRA 117 and Schankerz like this.
  11. mblackwell1002


    Dude, good idea with the pre-plated bondo cups. I'll bet that makes for some consistent batches and easy mixing. I'm a wee bit more scatterbrained than you, lol.
  12. PerniciousDuke


    Ha, yeah mblackwell1002, I just thought of this yesterday. Saves me time between Bondo layers. Really sped things up. The one ounce cups have always been great though.

    What do you all think? In the picture above with the commando shoulder... I really don't want to Bondo inside the long recesses at the top. What if I cut them out instead and made them recessed light panels (like I'll be doing in the thighs.)
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  13. mblackwell1002


    I would should smooth the recesses. It'll take a lot of work, but it will be more accurate. That's totally up to you, though.
    Dirtdives likes this.
  14. PerniciousDuke



    Another successful weekend away. Put 15 hours in. That doesn't include set up or clean up.. That's 15 hours with either a putty knife in my hand or a sander.

    Here's my Bondo station. Got to use my parent's propane patio heater.

    And here was my sanding station so cold. I don't think it was much warmer than 40 F. Times like this that really makes me question why I am doing this. :p
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2017
  15. Dirtdives


    Because you are a glutton for punishment!!!! :devil::devil::devil:
    SI3RRA 117 and PerniciousDuke like this.
  16. mblackwell1002


    Nice progress! Your Robocop armor is turning out great! If you need a blaster, look HERE! And you can practice your aim with THIS!!

    Make your work area safer!!

    Make your kitchen safer!!!


    lol, I'm totally messing. :D Your Reach armor is looking great so far, it's starting to look really clean from what I can tell!
  17. PerniciousDuke


  18. mblackwell1002


    That doesn't count as progress. :p

    Looks like fun!
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  19. PerniciousDuke



    Another long weekend down. My mom was tired of the bondo smell finding its way into the house from the garage so I was banished to the top of the barn. On the upside, it has a TV! (may make the progress a little slower but it keeps my spirits up.)

    Not much to show this stage of the game, but I do feel I've really refined my bondo process so I'm ready to put it in to words for those who care to follow along.

    Steps for shaping with body filler (bondo):

    Bondo is a brand, like Kleenex, that got famous for a product. Even though they make many other products when most people say bondo they are referring to body filler often used in automotive cosmetic repair.

    First you need what you're bondoing to be reinforced because you'll be applying lots of pressure to sand it smooth.

    Always work in small batches. I never mix more than two ounces at a time (about the size of a golf ball) and often only one ounce. It only takes a small amount of hardener, about the size of a #2 pencil eraser for 1-2 ounces. I like to mix it up using a chop stick as it is easy to clean off and reuse.

    Step 1- Apply your first layer using a plastic putty knife. Be careful where you apply it. It is easy to get the bondo into places, hard to get it out. Your focus here is on creating shape. Many surfaces you are turning from flat to curved which means some areas will have lots of bondo some will have very little. [insert sketch of pep layers] Don't worry about leaving little mountain peaks in random spots, step two will make quick work of those.

    Step 2 - After drying, sand down with 40 or 60 grit sandpaper using either a sanding block, orbital, oscillating or mouse sander.. Something flat. Quickly sand into into the shape you wanted. Don't try to make it smooth, you don't want to sand away all the work you've done applying the bondo.

    Tip - Don't be afraid to change your sand paper often. You're likely to wear out the backer pads if you use a piece of sand paper too long. Don't let things get too hot, take a break.

    Step 3 - Think of this as your last coat of bondo as you apply another layer. Again the focus is trying to create the shape you want. This time also try to leave the areas fairly smooth using your putty knives. It still doesn't need to be perfect. Should look something like this.

    Step 4 - Take your same sanding devices as before but this time use 120 grit. It will clog up the sandpaper fast, but man does it leave a good finish. Here's the same piece as above after hitting it with just a 5" orbital sander for less than five minutes.
    The goal this time is to get smooth faces. *you won't get every pit out* but it should be nice and flat or curved. Again though, be careful not to sand all your work away.

    Tip - You can get different color hardeners so that you can tell when you've sanded through one layer.

    Step 5 - The shape you've wanted should be there. All that's left is decently sized pits, maybe some broken up edges and some spots you might have missed entirely. Apply bondo to these places. To fill in pits press your putty knife down hard scraping the bondo into the shallow spots. You do not want to create another layer, only fill in what is missing.

    Step 6 - Hand sand with 220 grit. Use files to give real clean edges to hard to reach flat places. Use a dremel to clean the hard to reach curved places.

    Step 7 - Use spot putty to fill in any last and final pits. Again press the putty knife in hard as to not add more layers.

    Step 8 - Sand with 320 grit to get it smooth than a baby's bottom.

    If that sounds like a lot that's because it is, once you've heard step 8 in your hands you'll know it was worth it.

    *Note - if a piece has a lot of levels it may be best to do most of these steps for one level before applying bondo to other levels. This will help maintain your details.

    CURRENTLY: All of my pieces are either done or almost done with step 4. I'm on the downward slope here. :)

    And a little teaser... I did a test fitting to see where and how I wanted my shoulder pieces to fit together. You may also notice a new addition to the family. :love: And I'm not talking about the cat.

    Last edited: Dec 26, 2017
  20. SI3RRA 117

    SI3RRA 117

    PerniciousDuke Everythings looking great. That little shotgun the new member? Don’t remember seeing that one. Was that done on your printer?
  21. PerniciousDuke


    Thanks! Yes it is the new member. And no, I didn't print it. Previously the topic of this now dead thread. Project got put on hold as I was not able to find a glue suitable for gluing such large pieces of PLA together to my standards. I've since found one and I couldn't be happier with it. I can actually do the pump action with this thing one handed with no fear. I'll be resurrecting that thread soon to explain more about the 3d printed stuff. (Still haven't turned on my printer.)
  22. mblackwell1002


    Y'know, super glue is one of the strongest adhesives in the world with some of the quickest bonding times. If you get the right brand, you won't be disappointed. There are brands out there that can lift thousands of pounds with just a few drops.

    Nice progress so far! You're getting so close! The parts are getting a lot smoother, what's funny is that they actually look a bit shiny...that is so strange. Awesome, man!

    This counts as progress!! ;)

    Don't forget to [insert sketch of pep layers] :p
  23. Schankerz


    Love the progress so far! And I'm loooving the shotgun too, looking forward too more work on that! And man you've really come a long way with your work stations, ''twas not so long ago you were working on the curb of a sidewalk behind your backyard...oh how the time flies.

    Also cats in progress photos are always a win (y)
  24. mblackwell1002


    I'm more of a dog person. Oh, how you insult me. ;)
  25. Schankerz


    I too consider myself a dog person, but the girlfriend is a crazy cat fan so I've started to become accustomed to the small fuzzy fellas. *whispers* but my allegiance shall forever be for my beloved doggos, don't let her know thaaaat

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