Embarking on my first build: MK VII!

Darkninja

New Member
Hello all!

I've been roaming around the forum for the past couple months and decided to take a shot at making a MK V(b) suit out of foam over winter break in December. After about a week and a half of work I managed to create one bicep that turned out like this:
IMG_4208.JPG
IMG_4207.JPG
IMG_4209.JPG



I got frustrated with not being able to cut the right angles in the foam to get everything to line up causing me to go through a lot of foam, so I decided to invest in a 3D printer. I bought a used original CR-10 (I knew what I could be getting myself into by going used and by getting an old printer from 2017) because I didn't mind having to upgrade or fix stuff since that would only provide me with more knowledge on the ins and outs of the printer. Took me about a month to get everything working flawlessly so that I could do multi-day prints without issue. Anyways, enough about that! I decided to use PETG (specifically Overture PETG) for this build because of its higher heat resistance and strength as compared to PLA+. I made sure to install an bi-metal heatbreak so I wouldn't be releasing any toxic fumes from the PTFE bowden tube at the higher temps that PETG requires.

I started off by scaling everything using Armorsmith Designer (which I would highly recommend any person gets that is going to be building a suit of armor, even though it is $40, as it'll save a lot of headache and time) and came up with this the first image below. The forearm might look too small but I used blender to create a more "accurate" representation of my forearm by taking multiple circumference measurements of my forearm at different parts and then scaled a cylinder at the same places in blender, as shown in the second image below. I used this and the forearm 3d model to find a more accurate scale to make sure it was going to be right the first time so I didn't have to reprint. I also took the time to come up with the color design for my spartan using blender and the SpartanPack.
Screenshot 2024-03-30 214017.png
Screenshot 2024-03-30 214215.png
Screenshot 2024-03-30 225319.png


After scaling everything I began by printing the left knee first, since it is one of the smallest prints and was going to print in a short amount of time. I spent quite a while trying to make sure the supports were going to behave properly and come off easily since I was going to be using tree supports in OrcaSlicer. The nozzle impacted the top of the knee (you can see it in the upper right as a little divot in the primer because I forgot to take photos of a lot of parts before sanding and/or priming) after the print finished because I had the end gcode in the slicer set up wrong. I fixed that issue real quick lol. After the knee I started to print the bicep which took a little more than 24 hours. The bicep came out pretty much perfect and was scaled pretty well I think. Next I printed the left forearm, which took a little over 22 hours to print. This one also came out looking basically perfect and was scaled well.
IMG_4214.JPG
IMG_4176.JPG
IMG_4198.JPG
IMG_4199.JPG


I decided to then start sanding them down and to hit them with filler primer to get rid of the print lines while I was printing the left shin. I hit them with 120 grit by hand and also using a detail sander with 100 grit that I bought at harbor freight. I had bough a 3M organic vapor and particulate filter half-mask respirator to use while applying contact cement for the foam I originally planned to use so I used it while sanding to protect myself from the sanding dust. Once again, I forgot to take pictures of what the parts looked like after sanding and before priming but I'll make sure I do when I print the right side pieces. After the shin finished (which took just under 44 hours) I sanded that but I haven't gotten around to priming it yet because I plan on trying a method I saw on YouTube for mixing Bondo spot putty and acetone and then spray painting it on to smooth out imperfections before the filler primer. The shin came out with quite a few spots where the printer decided to under-extrude and not completely fill the wall near the end of the walls (everywhere you can see the red spot putty).
IMG_4204.JPG
IMG_4202.JPG
IMG_4210.JPG
IMG_4211.JPG
IMG_4212.JPG
IMG_4213.JPG


Next up was the left thigh! This print came out better than the shin that was before it. I managed to get rid of the under-extruded wall issue. I was never really ever to figure out what it was lmao. It magically fixed itself by switching to a different profile with the exact same settings. After the thigh it was time to embark on the physically largest part of the armor, the chest piece! I split the chest into 8 pieces (my naming scheme is whether it is top or bottom half first, front or back half second, and left or right half last) since the CR-10 has a decently large build volume. I am currently printing the left half first and have printed the bottom front left, bottom back left, and top back left. I am currently about 1/3 of the way through printing the top front left piece.

The pieces printed so far have turned out pretty good except for some weird issue where on very shallow inclines there was what appeared to be flaking on top of the print looking matte. If anybody has any recommendations on how to fix that go right ahead, any help would be appreciated! I have already sanded down 2 of the pieces as I was trying to see if the aforementioned artifacts are easily removable and it appears that they are physically raised a slight bit compared to their surrounding areas.
IMG_4215.JPG
IMG_4216.JPG
IMG_4217.JPG
IMG_4218.JPG
IMG_4219.JPG
IMG_4220.JPG
IMG_4221.JPG
IMG_4222.JPG
IMG_4223.JPG
IMG_4225.JPG


For anybody that read through the entirety of this post, thank you so much! I tried to split it into sections that I thought weren't too long to read to hopefully make it easier. Future posts should be a bit shorter :). To end off this post, I have a few questions for anybody that would like to answer:
1. What glue would you recommend for gluing together PETG pieces, such as chest pieces and possible the helmet.

2. What type of paint would you use? I have read of people using latex housepaint on this forum and others using rattlecan paints. I have access to an HVLP spray paint gun and was wondering if anyone would have any recommendations on if I could get better results using that and paints that come in cans.

3. How do you sand in very tight spots where your fingers won't reach? There are some spots that need to be sanded down prior to priming because they have little blobs sticking off the surface.

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4224.JPG
    IMG_4224.JPG
    2.3 MB · Views: 22
love the post and for question 3 id use a sanding stick so get a popsicel stick and glue some sandpaper to it so it can get into those tight spots
 
I got them from the the Free 3D Model Index here on the forum which can be found here: Free 3D Model Index. It has pretty much all the different versions of armor that you might possible want to build and different weapons models as well from different the different Halo games.
Thanks! Digging around in there and finding a lot of foam files which was confusing. I’ll keep looking. Appreciate it!
 
I would dissuade from making the acetone spot putty mix being sprayable, as it can be hazardous, but as a liquid alone it should be good enough to spread onto your prints
 
How do you sand in very tight spots where your fingers won't reach? There are some spots that need to be sanded down prior to priming because they have little blobs sticking off the surface.
A set of small files is super helpful! Also, gluing sandpaper to the end of a popsicle stick helps for getting in those super hard-to-reach areas.

What type of paint would you use? I have read of people using latex housepaint on this forum and others using rattlecan paints. I have access to an HVLP spray paint gun and was wondering if anyone would have any recommendations on if I could get better results using that and paints that come in cans.
I have not used anything besides rattle cans. If you can get the colour you want from a spray can, you can still get great results! I'm hoping someone who has used house paint can chime in on this subject... Fallen I believe you've used house paint? Do you have any info to share?

What glue would you recommend for gluing together PETG pieces, such as chest pieces and possible the helmet.
Personally I use CA glue with activator for gluing my prints. I believe I have heard of people re-enforcing their armour with fibreglass on the inside to make it more rigid.
 
A set of small files is super helpful! Also, gluing sandpaper to the end of a popsicle stick helps for getting in those super hard-to-reach areas.


I have not used anything besides rattle cans. If you can get the colour you want from a spray can, you can still get great results! I'm hoping someone who has used house paint can chime in on this subject...


Personally I use CA glue with activator for gluing my prints. I believe I have heard of people re-enforcing their armour with fibreglass on the inside to make it more rigid.
Thanks so much for the answers! They're super helpful! I'll go ahead and try to use your method of using CA glue with an activator and see how that works. I've been taking a lot of inspiration from your build and am planning on creating my undersuit pretty much the same way you did yours. Your suit looks really good by the way!
 
Sooooo… My 3D printer decided to misbehave and get layer shift at the end of a 2 day print (can’t ever be at the beginning can it lol). So right now I’m in the process of printing out the piece that had layer shift and am going to attempt to glue it back on to see if it’ll come out good. I really don’t want to have to waste that much filament in order to reprint :(. First time I’ve gotten layer shift in around 20 prints. I have a feeling the nozzle got caught on the print so I’m going to increase the z-hop height in case.
IMG_4238.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4237.jpeg
    IMG_4237.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 7
To end off this post, I have a few questions for anybody that would like to answer:
1. What glue would you recommend for gluing together PETG pieces, such as chest pieces and possible the helmet.
For glue I’ve used CA glue with activator, also in my limited experience, super glue / gorilla glue with activator. Easier with two people, one to handle glue and spray while the other handles the prints.

Another method of adhesion with glue could be 3d print welding. I’m thinking of the kind that uses metal staples in an s shape. I’ve seen this used to enforce the seams after glue but am yet to try myself. Looked promising though for support.
 
For glue I’ve used CA glue with activator, also in my limited experience, super glue / gorilla glue with activator. Easier with two people, one to handle glue and spray while the other handles the prints.

Another method of adhesion with glue could be 3d print welding. I’m thinking of the kind that uses metal staples in an s shape. I’ve seen this used to enforce the seams after glue but am yet to try myself. Looked promising though for support.
I've never heard of that method of 3D print welding, sounds interesting! I might have to try what you did and use it to support the seams. Thanks for the answer!
 
Just posting an update for the chest piece that had layer shifting. Reprinted the parts that had layer shift last night and just glued them onto the main prices and they lined up perfect! When I glued them together I misaligned one slightly but I’ll be able to fix it later. Just happy I didn’t have to waste that much filament!
image.jpg
image.jpg

I used CA glue with activator to glue it and then some 2 part epoxy on the outside to fill in the little gap (should’ve probably used body filler) and to hopefully add some more strength. I’ll sand it down in a day so that it’ll fully cure.
 
So I have another question for you all. What would be the best method to attach the 2 halves of the chest piece together? I've read about magnets being used but it seems like you'd have to get pretty strong ones (because it's 3D printed and weighs a bit more than a foam one would) and was thinking about using parachute buckles instead, only thing would be putting them in a place that it easily reachable. Also read about velcro but that seems like it would sag a bit and not hold the 2 pieces together too well. Thanks!
 
Parachute clips are a very popular choice. Most members have their chest piece come apart in two pieces, separating front and back. That way you can do up the two buckles on the shoulders, put the chest piece on, then do up the buckles on the side do fully secure it on.
 
Also forgot to ask what would be the best way to glue them on? Hot glue doesn’t want to stick too well so I was thinking maybe e6000 or maybe even JB weld, but any other ideas would be appreciated!
 
Also forgot to ask what would be the best way to glue them on? Hot glue doesn’t want to stick too well so I was thinking maybe e6000 or maybe even JB weld, but any other ideas would be appreciated!
I put a strap through mine, then glue the strap to the armour. I just use hot glue to attach the strap to the foam. It won't hold if you try to glue the clip directly.
 
On a printed part I put a strap through the buckle like N8TEBB then attach the strap to my print w/ e6000.
 

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top