EVAkura
Well-Known Member
Hey 405th! I have not forgotten about you, I promise! I have been very busy these past few months; creating what I hope will be the most accurate Halo 4 Master Chief built to-date.
Since I am being forced to take a bit of a break, due to the holidays, I figured I would spend some time and create a post of some of the more recent things I have learned and observed.
1. The quality of your EVA is paramount: For those who are trying to up their skill, or are even just starting out with EVA foam, I have learned that the quality of said product is so important. Yes, I have seen some "great deals" on EVA mats in the past, but up until recently, have had little experience actually working with these "bargain" products.
Density: The best I can compare poor quality EVA mats to is craft foam. Don't get me wrong here, as craft foam has its definite uses. But when you are looking for precise and perfect cuts, it does not matter how sharp your blade is, or how stable your cutting skills are; craft foam (and EVA mats that are similar in texture and pore density) make it nearly impossible to achieve that, especially on anything thicker than 1/16" (2mm). What is the reason for this? Once pressure is applied to the surface, the amount of "give" the material has will directly affect the performance of the cut. Think of it like using a table saw to cut two items. One wood, and the other Jell-O. While that scenario is extreme, the result is very similar. Due to the density of the wood, as you push it through the cut, the pressure throughout will remain constant. With Jell-O, as you attempt to push it through, the pressure will vary greatly, resulting in a cut, but one which is very inconsistent.
Pretty bad, huh? Unfortunately, it does not stop there.
Surface imperfections: I also have noticed that inexpensive EVA foam tiles are riddled with exposed air bubbles on the surface. This makes it practically impossible to negotiate your templates to avoid them. In addition, I have seen these same air pockets not only on the surface, but also embedded in the foam. It can be very frustrating when you cut out a larger piece, only to find large air pockets that literally make the piece unusable.
Thickness variations: I have personally seen (and heard the horror stories) of EVA mats that were labeled as 3/8" thick, go as thin as 1/4" in places. EVA is a very interesting material, where a variance of just 1/16" will make a massive impact on the physical properties of it. This can lead to things like: inconsistent bends while heat forming, weakness in thinner areas which are more prone to tearing, and making it real difficult/impossible to align cut edges.
So, if you are fortunate enough to be able to view your potential product in-person before purchasing, it would behoove you to look for these potential problems. If you are unable to do so (like myself, as I have to order all of my materials via the internet), and are attempting to find a "really great deal", I strongly recommend doing a fair bit of research before finalizing a purchase. If you want to avoid this hassle, and are prepared to pay a premium price for a premium product, I suggest looking into "wesellmats.com". On average, I pay about $4 per 2'X2' sheet, and make my purchases when they have a "free shipping" promotion. I have ordered from them many times, and have yet to have a disappointment.
2. Your cutting tools can be your best friend, or worse enemy: If you are the average hobbyist, then just about any cutting utensil will work. However, if you are striving for perfection, then blade choice can make or break it for you. I will keep this part fairly short, and will focus on what I have learned works well for me.
A #11 is a #11: No matter what type (composites) or brand of blade you use, EVA foam will dull it VERY quickly. Keeping your blade sharp is paramount, and with a bit of focused habit training, can be easily achieved. I have trained myself to sharpen my blade after approximately 6"-12" of cutting. I use a stick style sharpener (the kind butcher's use), and in just a few whisks, the blade is as sharp as new. I use surgical scalpel blades, and find them online around $10 per 100. With proper and frequent sharpening, I can extend a single blade to last for weeks.
Don't underestimate the box cutter: Sometimes I find the need to make a linear cut that requires a fairly "steep" angle. When this is the case, I often find myself relying on the inexpensive, single-edge box cutter blade. I use this without the "handle" so that I can keep my hand in constant contact with the foam (or cutting surface) as I make the cut. Doing so helps keep the pressure constant, and the angle true.
3. Expand your horizons with different mediums: One thing I have noticed with EVA prop builders is the "need" to only use foam. Try stepping outside the comfort zone and utilize other types of materials to enhance your build. I have talked to a lot of critics, and the majority agree that most foam builds look like they were built with foam. To some, this may not be an issue. But for those of us who are attempting to make an item appear as if it was created with the same, native materials that the item we are trying to reproduce is made from, having it easily distinguished as being made from foam is simply unacceptable. To do this, try using non-traditional items! The list below is certainly not exclusive, as even I am always trying new products or materials in the attempt to foil the "keenest" of eyes.
Cardstock - thin, ridged material
Balsa or Basswood - a bit thicker than cardstock, and easily manipulated/sanded/cut to achieve amazing results
Hardware - a simple metal hinge looks much more realistic than a piece of foam that is cut to look like a hinge. Brackets, levers, dials... the list goes on and on.
Bondo/Resin/Rondo cast pieces - I sometimes find it much more convincing to use a hardened material that has been cast from a quick mold I made using craft clay.
Disguise your foam: Building off of the previous bit about using various mediums is, eliminating the tell-tale characteristics of foam. A few methods I commonly use are:
Altering the thickness of the visible exterior edges - Cutting an angle on the backside of EVA will help give the appearance that it is a thinner material than it actually is, without harming the structural integrity of the project. Do this when the item is supposed to be, let's say, 1/4" thick, but your EVA is 3/8" or thicker.
Avoid using the pattern on the backside of the EVA - Sometime we try to get ingenious with using the pattern that is prevalent on the back side of our EVA sheets. The only problem with that is; so very few designs are exact replicas of the item we are reproducing. In addition, this is the GREATEST tell-all that the item is made with foam. Unless this is your desire, do everything in your power to hide any visibility of the backside.
Not all glues are created equal - but each has their own use: There is a time and place for everything, and this holds true with adhesives too! Experiment with a wide variety of adhesives. Through this, and continued experience, you will learn when and where to use the most effective adhesive. Proof in point; hot glue is awesome, but after you have used it, heat forming the piece again is an absolute nightmare, neigh impossible... often resulting in an unrecoverable mess. On the flip-side, super glue is great as well, but not as effective as hot glue when installing strapping material, or other cloth based materials. Some adhesives to consider (but not limited to) are:
High-temp hot glue
Super glue (gel and normal)
Shoe Goo
Contact Cement
Unique Stitch (an EVA copolymer based glue!)
Super 77
I am also always on the look-out for other adhesives, as well as you should be too
I will let this all soak in a bit, and will continue these chronicles of advice if there is interest shown.
Since I am being forced to take a bit of a break, due to the holidays, I figured I would spend some time and create a post of some of the more recent things I have learned and observed.
1. The quality of your EVA is paramount: For those who are trying to up their skill, or are even just starting out with EVA foam, I have learned that the quality of said product is so important. Yes, I have seen some "great deals" on EVA mats in the past, but up until recently, have had little experience actually working with these "bargain" products.
Density: The best I can compare poor quality EVA mats to is craft foam. Don't get me wrong here, as craft foam has its definite uses. But when you are looking for precise and perfect cuts, it does not matter how sharp your blade is, or how stable your cutting skills are; craft foam (and EVA mats that are similar in texture and pore density) make it nearly impossible to achieve that, especially on anything thicker than 1/16" (2mm). What is the reason for this? Once pressure is applied to the surface, the amount of "give" the material has will directly affect the performance of the cut. Think of it like using a table saw to cut two items. One wood, and the other Jell-O. While that scenario is extreme, the result is very similar. Due to the density of the wood, as you push it through the cut, the pressure throughout will remain constant. With Jell-O, as you attempt to push it through, the pressure will vary greatly, resulting in a cut, but one which is very inconsistent.
Pretty bad, huh? Unfortunately, it does not stop there.
Surface imperfections: I also have noticed that inexpensive EVA foam tiles are riddled with exposed air bubbles on the surface. This makes it practically impossible to negotiate your templates to avoid them. In addition, I have seen these same air pockets not only on the surface, but also embedded in the foam. It can be very frustrating when you cut out a larger piece, only to find large air pockets that literally make the piece unusable.
Thickness variations: I have personally seen (and heard the horror stories) of EVA mats that were labeled as 3/8" thick, go as thin as 1/4" in places. EVA is a very interesting material, where a variance of just 1/16" will make a massive impact on the physical properties of it. This can lead to things like: inconsistent bends while heat forming, weakness in thinner areas which are more prone to tearing, and making it real difficult/impossible to align cut edges.
So, if you are fortunate enough to be able to view your potential product in-person before purchasing, it would behoove you to look for these potential problems. If you are unable to do so (like myself, as I have to order all of my materials via the internet), and are attempting to find a "really great deal", I strongly recommend doing a fair bit of research before finalizing a purchase. If you want to avoid this hassle, and are prepared to pay a premium price for a premium product, I suggest looking into "wesellmats.com". On average, I pay about $4 per 2'X2' sheet, and make my purchases when they have a "free shipping" promotion. I have ordered from them many times, and have yet to have a disappointment.
2. Your cutting tools can be your best friend, or worse enemy: If you are the average hobbyist, then just about any cutting utensil will work. However, if you are striving for perfection, then blade choice can make or break it for you. I will keep this part fairly short, and will focus on what I have learned works well for me.
A #11 is a #11: No matter what type (composites) or brand of blade you use, EVA foam will dull it VERY quickly. Keeping your blade sharp is paramount, and with a bit of focused habit training, can be easily achieved. I have trained myself to sharpen my blade after approximately 6"-12" of cutting. I use a stick style sharpener (the kind butcher's use), and in just a few whisks, the blade is as sharp as new. I use surgical scalpel blades, and find them online around $10 per 100. With proper and frequent sharpening, I can extend a single blade to last for weeks.
Don't underestimate the box cutter: Sometimes I find the need to make a linear cut that requires a fairly "steep" angle. When this is the case, I often find myself relying on the inexpensive, single-edge box cutter blade. I use this without the "handle" so that I can keep my hand in constant contact with the foam (or cutting surface) as I make the cut. Doing so helps keep the pressure constant, and the angle true.
3. Expand your horizons with different mediums: One thing I have noticed with EVA prop builders is the "need" to only use foam. Try stepping outside the comfort zone and utilize other types of materials to enhance your build. I have talked to a lot of critics, and the majority agree that most foam builds look like they were built with foam. To some, this may not be an issue. But for those of us who are attempting to make an item appear as if it was created with the same, native materials that the item we are trying to reproduce is made from, having it easily distinguished as being made from foam is simply unacceptable. To do this, try using non-traditional items! The list below is certainly not exclusive, as even I am always trying new products or materials in the attempt to foil the "keenest" of eyes.
Cardstock - thin, ridged material
Balsa or Basswood - a bit thicker than cardstock, and easily manipulated/sanded/cut to achieve amazing results
Hardware - a simple metal hinge looks much more realistic than a piece of foam that is cut to look like a hinge. Brackets, levers, dials... the list goes on and on.
Bondo/Resin/Rondo cast pieces - I sometimes find it much more convincing to use a hardened material that has been cast from a quick mold I made using craft clay.
Disguise your foam: Building off of the previous bit about using various mediums is, eliminating the tell-tale characteristics of foam. A few methods I commonly use are:
Altering the thickness of the visible exterior edges - Cutting an angle on the backside of EVA will help give the appearance that it is a thinner material than it actually is, without harming the structural integrity of the project. Do this when the item is supposed to be, let's say, 1/4" thick, but your EVA is 3/8" or thicker.
Avoid using the pattern on the backside of the EVA - Sometime we try to get ingenious with using the pattern that is prevalent on the back side of our EVA sheets. The only problem with that is; so very few designs are exact replicas of the item we are reproducing. In addition, this is the GREATEST tell-all that the item is made with foam. Unless this is your desire, do everything in your power to hide any visibility of the backside.
Not all glues are created equal - but each has their own use: There is a time and place for everything, and this holds true with adhesives too! Experiment with a wide variety of adhesives. Through this, and continued experience, you will learn when and where to use the most effective adhesive. Proof in point; hot glue is awesome, but after you have used it, heat forming the piece again is an absolute nightmare, neigh impossible... often resulting in an unrecoverable mess. On the flip-side, super glue is great as well, but not as effective as hot glue when installing strapping material, or other cloth based materials. Some adhesives to consider (but not limited to) are:
High-temp hot glue
Super glue (gel and normal)
Shoe Goo
Contact Cement
Unique Stitch (an EVA copolymer based glue!)
Super 77
I am also always on the look-out for other adhesives, as well as you should be too
I will let this all soak in a bit, and will continue these chronicles of advice if there is interest shown.
