Hey guys never posted a topic but have been working on the paper armor. I have been working with fiberglass for years and have some suggestions.
The first coat on your armor should be a very very light coat of resin without wax in it. Most resin companies sell the resin with a liquid called wax seperate that you will add to the final coat. Use the non-waxed resin in all but the final coat (remains tacky so you dont have to sand between coats). After your first couple of coats when you are ready to start laying some bondo (body filler) I use what they call a milk shake. This can be made very thick or very thin depending on what you want to do with it.
How to make a milk shake.
1) mixing container with 1 part bondo (body filler)
2) Add your resin, Wax mixture, and 1 part to 1/3 part resin (depending on how thick you want it)(add small amount of color if you want)
3) mix your mixture as well as posible
4) add your hardiner
5)Now paint with a paint brush or pour your milk shake in hard to reach areas.
This mixure is what a lot of custom stereo instalers use on shaped boxes and panels. The mixture is 100% easier to sand then straight resin. Fiberglass resin is extremily tough to sand and should not be used as a final coat. It will leave small pin holes etc. in your product. I use a ton of this in the classis car restoration business and my products have to be perfect. I would suggest for strength to have one layer at least of fiberglass cloth prior to adding your milkshake. You will find this is very easy to make and takes a lot of the work out of sanding. Also for very cheap (2-4$) you can get a jar of color to add to your resin. This will help when it comes to painting and blending. Also I would not use the resin from home depot. The stuff stinks. You can get your product here http://www.shopmaninc.com/ Look under polyester resins. They give you an exact way to measure your catalyst (not guessing on drops) also you will get a lot longer work time to use the resin you mix. Good luck and I hope this helps.
The first coat on your armor should be a very very light coat of resin without wax in it. Most resin companies sell the resin with a liquid called wax seperate that you will add to the final coat. Use the non-waxed resin in all but the final coat (remains tacky so you dont have to sand between coats). After your first couple of coats when you are ready to start laying some bondo (body filler) I use what they call a milk shake. This can be made very thick or very thin depending on what you want to do with it.
How to make a milk shake.
1) mixing container with 1 part bondo (body filler)
2) Add your resin, Wax mixture, and 1 part to 1/3 part resin (depending on how thick you want it)(add small amount of color if you want)
3) mix your mixture as well as posible
4) add your hardiner
5)Now paint with a paint brush or pour your milk shake in hard to reach areas.
This mixure is what a lot of custom stereo instalers use on shaped boxes and panels. The mixture is 100% easier to sand then straight resin. Fiberglass resin is extremily tough to sand and should not be used as a final coat. It will leave small pin holes etc. in your product. I use a ton of this in the classis car restoration business and my products have to be perfect. I would suggest for strength to have one layer at least of fiberglass cloth prior to adding your milkshake. You will find this is very easy to make and takes a lot of the work out of sanding. Also for very cheap (2-4$) you can get a jar of color to add to your resin. This will help when it comes to painting and blending. Also I would not use the resin from home depot. The stuff stinks. You can get your product here http://www.shopmaninc.com/ Look under polyester resins. They give you an exact way to measure your catalyst (not guessing on drops) also you will get a lot longer work time to use the resin you mix. Good luck and I hope this helps.
