First Build - MKVII - JamesAdams

JamesAdams

New Member
TLDR: 3D Printing Halo Infinite MKVII Suit. Thus far I've printed some helmet bits, and I'm testing my post processing methods.

Thought it was time to start sharing and keeping a log of where I'm at in my MKVII build. I'll be 3D printing the majority of the suit, but want to try my hand at foamsmithing some of the flexible bits. I'm still in the newly started and excited phase, but I'm trying to keep patience in mind and make sure quality and durability are my focus. I've never done this before, so I'm learning as much as possible. I'll also be documenting the [cost: USD] of items as I go, and any extra details (that I would like to track).

screenshot-2024-11-30-at-08-59-08-halo-infinite-2024_11_25-21-31-45-1732978654837-png-onedrive-png.354968


I knew that the parts I was printing were going to be larger and take time on my old Ender3V2. So I started by printing out what I call "Practice Pucks". They are small pieces with ridges, holes, raised parts, curved edges, and slopes. These are meant to be the trial bed for post processing, and serve as a more cost effective place for me to learn some lessons.

Started by using super glue gel [$4] to bind the parts (dried for 1 day). Then some sanding with 100 grit:
Practice_Step1.jpg

Then a layer of diluted wood filler [$11] (dried 6h), and sanding with 220.
Practice_Step2.jpg

The diluted wood filler didn't fill the holes real well, so I added a thicker coat (dried 24h)... and more sanding with 220.
Practice_Step3.jpg

Felt smooth enough (it wasn't though) so I put on my first layer of primer / filler [$11] (dried 12h).
Practice_Step4.jpg

While sanding the primer/filler I put too much pressure on it and the super glue released even though it had been on for 3 days at this point. No worries, that's why we test these things! This gave me the opportunity to try my hand at PLA welding... I definitely need to practice this before I try it on any larger sized pieces. The pic below is after I sanded it again with 100/220 to take some depth off the weld.
Practice_Step4_PlaWelding.jpg


The pucks are currently drying from another coat of primer/filler, while my printer continues to work on the rest of my helmet.
Current helmet status: 50% due to my enormous head and medium sized print bed.
Half_Helmet.jpg


Next steps:
Finish printing helmet pieces, and learn more on my practice pieces.

Bonus:: Micro helmet for motivation
Screenshot from 2024-11-30 09-23-58.png
 

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TLDR: 3D Printing Halo Infinite MKVII Suit. Thus far I've printed some helmet bits, and I'm testing my post processing methods.

Thought it was time to start sharing and keeping a log of where I'm at in my MKVII build. I'll be 3D printing the majority of the suit, but want to try my hand at foamsmithing some of the flexible bits. I'm still in the newly started and excited phase, but I'm trying to keep patience in mind and make sure quality and durability are my focus. I've never done this before, so I'm learning as much as possible. I'll also be documenting the [cost: USD] of items as I go, and any extra details (that I would like to track).

screenshot-2024-11-30-at-08-59-08-halo-infinite-2024_11_25-21-31-45-1732978654837-png-onedrive-png.354968


I knew that the parts I was printing were going to be larger and take time on my old Ender3V2. So I started by printing out what I call "Practice Pucks". They are small pieces with ridges, holes, raised parts, curved edges, and slopes. These are meant to be the trial bed for post processing, and serve as a more cost effective place for me to learn some lessons.

Started by using super glue gel [$4] to bind the parts (dried for 1 day). Then some sanding with 100 grit:
View attachment 354969
Then a layer of diluted wood filler [$11] (dried 6h), and sanding with 220.
View attachment 354970
The diluted wood filler didn't fill the holes real well, so I added a thicker coat (dried 24h)... and more sanding with 220.
View attachment 354971
Felt smooth enough (it wasn't though) so I put on my first layer of primer / filler [$11] (dried 12h).
View attachment 354972
While sanding the primer/filler I put too much pressure on it and the super glue released even though it had been on for 3 days at this point. No worries, that's why we test these things! This gave me the opportunity to try my hand at PLA welding... I definitely need to practice this before I try it on any larger sized pieces. The pic below is after I sanded it again with 100/220 to take some depth off the weld.
View attachment 354973

The pucks are currently drying from another coat of primer/filler, while my printer continues to work on the rest of my helmet.
Current helmet status: 50% due to my enormous head and medium sized print bed.
View attachment 354974

Next steps:
Finish printing helmet pieces, and learn more on my practice pieces.

Bonus:: Micro helmet for motivation
View attachment 354975
I was using super glue with PLA welding on the inside of my armor (that way you don't need to worry about sanding the welds on the outside). I recently swapped the super glue for JB Weld plastic epoxy, which is stronger and is easy to sand any excess. The PLA welding on the inside is still amazing to do in addition!
 
I was using super glue with PLA welding on the inside of my armor (that way you don't need to worry about sanding the welds on the outside). I recently swapped the super glue for JB Weld plastic epoxy, which is stronger and is easy to sand any excess. The PLA welding on the inside is still amazing to do in addition!
I'll see if my local big-box has some JB Plastic epoxy. Is it a two part, and how long do I have to work with it? Appreciate the feedback!
 
I'll see if my local big-box has some JB Plastic epoxy. Is it a two part, and how long do I have to work with it? Appreciate the feedback!
I know it's sold at Home Depot, but my local one has been out of it the last 2 times I checked, so I've ordered it from Amazon. It's 2 part but comes with the two tubes connected, so there's one syringe you push and both parts come out equally. I've been squirting it out on a sheet of cardstock then mixing and applying it with a popsicle stick (Use a respirator and disposable gloves while working with epoxy). You have about 4 minutes of work time. I clamp the parts together while the epoxy cures. It tends to cure in 15 to 30 min depending on how much was applied. Then I can easily dispose of the gloves, popsicle stick, and cardstock once the epoxy on then I cured.

Also I love the test pieces. That's really good to do before jumping to large parts!
 
UPDATE #1
Starting off with the results of my practice pieces. I sanded back the first layer of primer, and then another, and then another. I then painted it with Rustoleum 2in1 paint and primer matte white paint [$6]. I let this dry and then did something crazy and coated it with minwax polycrylic. It's a brush on satin finish kind of clear coat for furniture. It's durable and glossy! Not sure if it's the right thing for cosplay or for my final product but it was available and worth a shot. It definitely rounds out the edges.
Practice Piece.jpg


On the helmet, all my pieces finished printing. I taped them together, put it on my head and played some rounds of infinite. After the wife laughed at me, I decided to practice my hand at PLA welding. Still not the best, but not too bad.
WeldPractice.jpg

Convinced that I had mastered the concept enough, I welded the helmet and began my dark decent into sanding. I held the pieces in place with tape and a bit of JBWeld Plastic Bonder (thanks tahu505).
Sanded and Welded.jpg




Then I applied two coats of wood filler and sanded some more.
WoodFillerApplied.jpg

There were some layer shifts still appearing so more filler was applied to those areas and the seams / gaps.
I probably should have used more.
WoodFillerCoat2.jpg

After sanding and cleaning the second coat, I took it outside for it's first pass with the 2in1 sandable filler-primer.
Primer_FillerCoat1_Right.jpg

Primer_FillerCoat1Front.jpg

Primer_FillerCoat1.jpg


Yes, I see the layer lines, and the shifts, and the seams, and the gaps... I know. This is probably coat one of 4 with sanding in between. It's nice to see it all one color though.

Next steps: I've printed some hand guards, but they seem small but match to my reference. I'll sort that out later. The printer is currently working on the first of two forearms. I've adjusted my layer heights to .12 (from 2.0) to hopefully reduce some sanding time. Hopefully my edges will stay clean and I can join them better without super sloppy welding. As for me? I'll tell you the same thing I say to my wife... If you need me, I'll be in the basement sanding something.
 
TLDR: Helmet is done but meh, Arms are 75%, Working on legs.
Update #2
Starting from where I left off (quite a while ago), The helmet is painted and complete. I’m not super happy with the messy seam down the center, so I may end up stripping it down for a complete redo.
IMG_4037.jpeg


I tried wood filler, pla welding, and plastic JB weld to fill the seam but it is still messy. Applying the JB Weld:
IMG_4039.jpeg


I did get my hands on a toaster oven and managed to pull off some decent vacuum forming. So I’ve got a visor!!
IMG_4031.jpeg


And it fits! Still have to dye it though.
IMG_4167.jpeg


In other areas of the build. I’ve got my hand plates done, just waiting on better gloves to permanently attach them. I’ve also finished the forearm pieces. I’ve built them so the inside panel is foam and velcros in. This lets me get my hand through without being oversized.
IMG_4173.jpeg


image.jpg


Moving up the arm, I’ve got both biceps printed. Learning my lesson from the helmet, I used contact cement to bond the pieces then PLA welded them on the inside. To clean up the exterior seams I tried the bondo method.
IMG_4246.jpeg


After this I gave it a good sanding and two coats of black primer. Currently they are masked and waiting for the final color coats.
image.jpg


Moving to the lower body. The boots are done! I got them printed, and painted pretty easily. The quality isn’t perfect but I was more focused on fit and durability here.
IMG_4198.jpeg


I used elastic to hold the pieces “together” but still give me flexibility. You can slightly see it between the front and back pieces.
image.jpg


The tongue pieces (that’s what I call them), have a printed support underneath that lets me lace them into the boots.
image.jpg


Shins! Both shins are printed and currently going through the sand / bondo phase. For these I wanted to try the full bondo coat method to see how the finish turned out.
I went with the split clam shell approach for these.
image.jpg


Surprisingly my foot just barely fits through when fully assembled. I’ll likely add some padding to the inside, so I’m still going to allow them to separate just to be sure.

While I paint/sand repeat, I’ve also started brainstorming my undersuit. I’m considering a split design at the waistline to permit restroom breaks.
IMG_0156.jpeg

IMG_0155.jpeg

IMG_0154.jpeg

Right now the printer is churning out the parts for my left thigh.
image.jpg


Do you know how Spartans are made?… … one battle at a time.
 
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This is some awesome work!!! I'm glad someone else also chose the shoelace route for their boots.
:lol:

Also maybe it could be helpful /easier to use product instead of wood filler is glazing / spot putty. Works magically and less mess. Learned that one from someone else when I scrapped my first shin piece.
 
This is some awesome work!!! I'm glad someone else also chose the shoelace route for their boots.
:lol:

Also maybe it could be helpful /easier to use product instead of wood filler is glazing / spot putty. Works magically and less mess. Learned that one from someone else when I scrapped my first shin piece.
I’ve started using the Bondo glazing spot putty now and the finish results are great. I’ll likely try to clean up my helmet seam using that, but I’m not looking forward to sanding it all down again.
 
When it comes to seams I heavily advise not using Bondo spot putty. It simply isn’t strong enough to handle the stress of a seam as well as other small imperfections. The package says that it’s meant for small imperfections not gaps like seams. I heavily recommend using Bondo Automotive filler which is a 2 part mix for seams and larger imperfections!
 
When it comes to seams I heavily advise not using Bondo spot putty. It simply isn’t strong enough to handle the stress of a seam as well as other small imperfections. The package says that it’s meant for small imperfections not gaps like seams. I heavily recommend using Bondo Automotive filler which is a 2 part mix for seams and larger imperfections!
Good to know! And you're saying I should definitely use the 2 part mix. Something like this?
1738845448162.png
 
Yes sir! thats exactly what i use! I also heavily recommend buying some PVC cards that are used for IDs simply because it makes it a whole lot easier to apply and will bend and contour with the armor! just keep in mind the filler doesn't need a whole lot of activator in order to do its magic! made that mistake early on and now I'm running out of activator...
 

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