Gamerguy55's Recon Helmet

[Humungotron]

I've been having some problems with the paper, it's like I'm sanding too much, the edges start to split, then I have to put more resin on them so they don't come completely apart.

I think I might be wasting Bondo, too. How much should I be using? Every time I put Bondo on it, I end up sanding it off, in hope of getting it smoother... then I add more, and do it all again. Is there something that I'm doing wrong, or is it supposed to be like this? I've been using a dremal and one of these to sand with.

You're gonna keep coming across that. The problem isn'tyou, its the pep file. Not to say the files bad, but unless you want to glue together 30 million pieces, you're gonna run across peaks and whatnot that don't flow with the rest of the helmet. Assuming you've fiberglassed the inside, you shouldn't have to worry about putting resin back in and over the paper. The paper, really, is like a low quality mold. as long as you dig it out a little, hit the bare spot with some 36 or 50 grit to give the bondo something to stick to, you can smooth right over it.
As for how much bondo to put on/take off, its dependent on whether or not the shape is right. I can go through 2 gallons of bondo in a few days, but most of it ends up as dust on the ground. The smoother you can put it on (i.e.-the closer you are to the final shape) the less sanding you have to do. However, even then, there's no guarantee you're not gonna end up taking half of it off anyway. Its all about experience, really. The more you work with it, the better off you are. But as long as the rough shape is close to what you're looking for, you're on the right path. Its not a matter of wasting bondo, since its pretty cheap. Hell, if you have to go through 5 gallons of bondo to get a perfect helmet, was it a waste?
as for te cut, I'd go with the one on the right. The seams better hidden by the details of the armor. Feel free to ignore my suggestions, however, as I haven't even printed out the torso peps.
One project at a time.

Edit: the mouse... Some people love em, some people hate em. Personally, I fall into the latter category. THey have their uses, sure, but I find I end up making too many flat spots in whatever work i'm doing. Same goes with DA's, straight air sanders, etc etc. I'm using 36 and 80 grit on my helmet right now, and all I'm using is a small scrap of wood and a thick rubber chunk as blocks (wood for flats, rubber for curves). I won't touch an air tool, aside from detail/repair work, until its primed at least once, if not twice.
If you're having good results with it, then keep at it. If it doesn't seem to be helping, swap over to a rougher grit of paper.
And every once in a while, close your eyes and run your hand over what you're sanding. You can feel all the little lumps and bumps, without your eyes distracting you by seeing all the differing colors of bondo. You'd be surprised what you miss.

 

[gamerguy55]

You're gonna keep coming across that. The problem isn'tyou, its the pep file. Not to say the files bad, but unless you want to glue together 30 million pieces, you're gonna run across peaks and whatnot that don't flow with the rest of the helmet. Assuming you've fiberglassed the inside, you shouldn't have to worry about putting resin back in and over the paper. The paper, really, is like a low quality mold. as long as you dig it out a little, hit the bare spot with some 36 or 50 grit to give the bondo something to stick to, you can smooth right over it.

Yeah, that's the problem with using this Low-Def model, it has to have so much added to it, so it looks smooth.

As for how much bondo to put on/take off, its dependent on whether or not the shape is right. I can go through 2 gallons of bondo in a few days, but most of it ends up as dust on the ground. The smoother you can put it on (i.e.-the closer you are to the final shape) the less sanding you have to do. However, even then, there's no guarantee you're not gonna end up taking half of it off anyway. Its all about experience, really. The more you work with it, the better off you are. But as long as the rough shape is close to what you're looking for, you're on the right path. Its not a matter of wasting bondo, since its pretty cheap. Hell, if you have to go through 5 gallons of bondo to get a perfect helmet, was it a waste?

I have been putting a lot of Bondo on it, but this is the first time I've used it, too. Sanding it seems to be working, but i always have little spots that still need fixed, so I put more Bondo on, then sand it all again and having the same problem having. Should I just use spot putty for these? I can take some pics.

as for te cut, I'd go with the one on the right. The seams better hidden by the details of the armor. Feel free to ignore my suggestions, however, as I haven't even printed out the torso peps.
One project at a time.

I agree, the right side does hide it better, and I think it would look better that way, too. But, when I looked at it, there isn't really a way to connect it together. It's on an angle, and there's no room to put buckle or connector because of that angle on the back, and the indent on the front piece. I cut it on the left. :| I don't know if that's the best place, but it's what I did. Maybe I should have used the other one, but oh well.

I cut the lower part here:

'Seems like the best place.

Edit: the mouse... Some people love em, some people hate em. Personally, I fall into the latter category. THey have their uses, sure, but I find I end up making too many flat spots in whatever work i'm doing. Same goes with DA's, straight air sanders, etc etc. I'm using 36 and 80 grit on my helmet right now, and all I'm using is a small scrap of wood and a thick rubber chunk as blocks (wood for flats, rubber for curves). I won't touch an air tool, aside from detail/repair work, until its primed at least once, if not twice.
If you're having good results with it, then keep at it. If it doesn't seem to be helping, swap over to a rougher grit of paper.

The mouse seems to only be useful for working on the large areas, it's too hard to get it into smaller places, for detail. I've been using a sanding block:

for the majority of my sanding. The dremel is good too, for some things. It's pretty easy to sand too much with it. I'm not sure what grit I'm using, I know it's the roughest that I have... I'll have to check.

And every once in a while, close your eyes and run your hand over what you're sanding. You can feel all the little lumps and bumps, without your eyes distracting you by seeing all the differing colors of bondo. You'd be surprised what you miss.

I'll have to try that. I've been putting a coat of primer on it, then looking.

Thanks for your help.



I'll try to take some more pics.

As for my progress, the hand plates are ready for Bondo, as well as the stomach plate, the chest is cut and is ready for it's first layer of cloth on the inside (Is cloth better to use than mat? I read somewhere that it was stronger, so I've been using it), I'll cut the supports out of the shoulders and get them and the forearms ready for fiberglass on the inside, I probably won't get to put it in, though. I've got a lot to do with the chest and helmet. I'll be sanding/bondo-ing the helemet some more, too. The stupid dremel battery dies pretty quickly, so the I will probably work on the upper part of the helmet, that has already been sanded for the most part. The left leg is still sitting, in paper form, I finished up the cod piece today, it seems to look pretty good with the leg. All that's left is the right leg, I have the boot printed out, but that's it, I'm not getting too anxious about that, I have a lot of other stuff to work on.

Any problems that occur tomorrow I will handle like this: