Halo 3 ODST build: 'Wasteland' style

TnG R1ckx

Member
Backstory
How long has it been since I've been left on Reach after the glassing..? 10 years? 20? Luckily I haven't been alone. A spartan was left and marked MIA as well, together with me.
It's been hard, and my armor shows it.

Hello! My build is centered about an ODST-er who's been left on Reach who (miraculously) survived the glassing with a spartan III (who'll be my friend). It'll be very rustic-looking, like one of those apocalypse movies. Ducktape, electric tape and bandages everywhere :)

Electronics
The helmet will be fitted with 2 rechargable batteries, a oled hud and a microprocessor controlling the fans depending on inner temperature (as to save up on battery power when it's already cool). The helmet will be outfitted with 2 temperature sensors on the inside, and one on the outside. Furthermore there will also be a led-strip to make the visor see-through (like the childsplay helmet did). I'm confident I can manage this, as my job includes programming those micro processors and doing a lot with electronics. I've got all the components, and programming a simple OS based on the super-attendant must be easy... right? The armor will be outfitted with more fans and battery power. The side panels will be outfitted with magnets to hold the guns.
I want to make it so that when I wear the helmet, it'll recharge it's own batteries from the suit itself. If I take off the helmet, the batteries inside itself must be used to power the helmet, so when someone else wears it for a short while (photo's etc) they'll see the hud in action as well :). The connector for this will be two magnets (one for + and one for - charge) which will be connected to a bridge rectifier to make reverse connections no problem. The connector will also just snap in place that way and will be easy to disconnect or connect without looking.

Progress:
Electronics: Got all of them, none connected/wired
Suit OS: Prototyping stage
Helmet: smoothing/detailing
Chest-area: Main chest being detailed/smoothed, rest being hardened
Gauntlets: Being hardened
Shoulders: Being pepped (1/2 done)
Gloves: Purchased and done
Bottom armor: nothing yet
M7S Caseless sub machine gun: Detail/smooting/painting
M6C/SOCOM: Detail/smoothing

Since I'm making this post halfway through my making, there won't be much photos of the earlier progress..

Photo's:
Check my replies for WIP photos. Finished parts will be placed here!

Thanks for looking at my post!
 

peterthethinker

Well-Known Member
If you need a good premade Very low profile HUD , I work for Rockwell Collins .We have this little Gem.
https://www.rockwellcollins.com/Data/Products/Displays/Soldier_Displays/MicroView_35_Helmet_Mounted_Display.aspx
Else, There are ways to Image the display on to your Visor .
https://www.rockwellcollins.com/Data/Products/Displays/Soldier_Displays/F-35_Gen_III_Helmet_Mounted_Display_System.aspx

As for Helm power.
you might want to Imbed a QI charger. One on the top of your Head's body suit and One IN the lid.

Dump the batt in the lid..... Ultra caps are VERY good at 10 Min loads.
 

Sword Breaker

Jr Member
OOoh. a hud you say eh?
You had my intrest. Now you have my full attention. Do tell more this sounds really intresting!
Also. . about the fans. . Think the helm will fog up too much without fans?
Im making a reach version Recon helmet.
 

TnG R1ckx

Member
If you need a good premade Very low profile HUD , I work for Rockwell Collins .We have this little Gem.
https://www.rockwellcollins.com/Data/Products/Displays/Soldier_Displays/MicroView_35_Helmet_Mounted_Display.aspx
Else, There are ways to Image the display on to your Visor .
https://www.rockwellcollins.com/Data/Products/Displays/Soldier_Displays/F-35_Gen_III_Helmet_Mounted_Display_System.aspx

As for Helm power.
you might want to Imbed a QI charger. One on the top of your Head's body suit and One IN the lid.

Dump the batt in the lid..... Ultra caps are VERY good at 10 Min loads.
That's a VERY good option. However, I'm not planning to do a full hud :p That'd be too expensive to do for me. I got a couple of 2" transparent OLED displays I got from work due to leftovers. I plan to do one in the down left corner and one at the top. I'm also thinking of placing a non-transparent display (prehaps oled as well) above the visor which can display more stuff without eating away my wallet :p

As for the QI chargers, I'm not really sure what you mean with this.. They're not magnetic as far as I'm aware so I'd need to find a way to make a place inside the helmet always connect with the odst body armor. Not only would that limit my movement drastically, it'd also be a bit more expensive than the magnets :p And for caps instead of batteries, I'll probably use lithium ion batteries. They don't really need to charge within 10 seconds and they have a good weight-charge ration which is appreciated in the long run :p Thanks for helping tho!

OOoh. a hud you say eh?
You had my intrest. Now you have my full attention. Do tell more this sounds really intresting!
Also. . about the fans. . Think the helm will fog up too much without fans?
Im making a reach version Recon helmet.
Like I said in the quote above: It won't be a full hud :p It'd be possible to do, but it'd be too expensive for me. I plan on writing a super-simple OS for it based on the super-attendant, which emotions change on battery-power and other factors. Maybe a clock as well, and some other gimmicks. The main processing chip I'll use is a 32 bit ARM processor, probably the Teensy 3.2 development platform (which has it already and it'd be easier for me to handle. Also: touch-capacitive buttons on the side!

Fans are IMPORTANT if you don't treat the visor. However, I plan on treating mine with some fat-stuff things (I don't know what they're called) to make fogging up your bathroom mirrors non-existing. Hopefully it'll work, but I still need to do more research on that. Imagine playing paintball with one of those visors. It fogs up the entire time even tho there seems to be plenty of ventilation. Now imagine that but 10x worse. That's why you need fans :p

I'd love to see your Recon project!
 

blackout11c

Jr Member
Ambitious. Not that that's a bad thing, far from it.

The connector for this will be two magnets (one for + and one for - charge) which will be connected to a bridge rectifier to make reverse connections no problem. The connector will also just snap in place that way and will be easy to disconnect or connect without looking.
Personally, I'd only use magnets for locating and securing the connection, rather than for the connection itself. That way, you could use a modified RC battery connector to actually link the two circuits, which would still prevent the terminals from reversing, as well as reducing any shock risks that would be present.
 

TnG R1ckx

Member
Ambitious. Not that that's a bad thing, far from it.


Personally, I'd only use magnets for locating and securing the connection, rather than for the connection itself. That way, you could use a modified RC battery connector to actually link the two circuits, which would still prevent the terminals from reversing, as well as reducing any shock risks that would be present.
Good observation, Blackout! I'll test it out when the time to actually do it is near ;)
 

TnG R1ckx

Member
So here I go, some pictures (finally!)
Here's my current helmet:
image2.JPG
(Yes, that isn't bondo, but it's strong. I'll reveal it later)
Here's my chestplate, which is just done hardening with 2 layers of resin:
image3.JPG
image4.JPG
There's quite some room for lots of battery packs and hardware, which actually makes me think. I could integrate some wireless communication protocol and (cheap) hardware to let the armor communicate with the helmet to show even MORE information (amount of steps, body temperature on different places, total charge level, etc). Again, I got the hardware, it's just about the way to implement it now further down the line.

Here's a photo of me wearing the helmet (with my smg in the background):
image5.JPG

As you might be able to see, the helmet's hardening is messy. This is because it was made whilst I was experimenting with different hardening techniques... on my helmet. I might remake it or mold it, who knows. Either way, it has 3 layers of fiberglass in it now and it's really, REALLY strong with the other experimental techniques on it too. Flex is literally non-existent and it's quite strong. Sad part is, it's about 1/3" thick, so it'll be a nightmare to counter the isolation. As for weight, it is about 2 kg, so not that bad I guess.
I'm gonna overlay the helmet with a coat of resin to strengthen the bondo (substitute) even more. Hopefully after sanding and more filling I'll be left with something awesome.

Also, why're my photo's rotated 90 degrees? Argh.
 

TnG R1ckx

Member
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php?t=47165&page=2&p=763025&viewfull=1#post763025

In this case I used two coils for audio but QI is the same idea. .. QI pads are super thin and can be mounted on the top of your head ( in a hairnet or balaclava )
the Rx Pad can go In the lid.......... most pads are 5V 1A out max . Plenty of power flow for a lid.
That's extremely innovative and smart! I'll definitely include this in the build!

Update:
Started working on hardening the upper-part of the armor.. except the shoulders. For some reason, I can only find one pepped shoulder in my storage, while I do recall making two. I don't have any cardstock in my house atm so I'll be getting some more tomorrow if I can find it. Then I'll start on those.
I can't continue with hardening the upper part furthermore, as my fiberglass mat is also almost gone.. So I'll be getting that as well, then harden the inside!

Here's a helpful tip for people struggling to get their fiberglass cloth in their place/aligned: If you just finished resining the inside, wait for it to cure to the point where it is *just* about done but still sticky. Cheaping out on the hardener is also possible. Then, just put the cloth on the resin and it'll stick. When resining the cloth later, use extra resin to get through the cloth (remember, you're only touching one side now) and it'll be easier, less messy and faster to do :)

I also noticed the butt pack on the ODST suit is massive. More battery space? Yes, please!

Thoughts on cooling
Whilst it is entirely possible to put as much fans on the suit as possible to cool everything down, I think it'd be more cost-effective and power-friendly to cool the areas where the veins are the closest to the skin. The following areas are especially useful for this: Ankles, Wrists, Neck, Inside of the knee etc. It should be possible to cool those areas with fans as to make the fan-body ratio smaller but still as effective. I've also ordered some peltier modules to test on using those for cooling, but those require a lot of power to run. Therefor they might be useful for emergencies, like heat strokes.

Further thoughts on wireless communcation
I'll probably end up using radio transmissions, as those are cheap, low-power and small to implement. Just sending serial-commands through them work as far as I'm aware, so that's easy :)
 

KaulinD

New Member
You have my attention on this build. I would love to hit this level one day

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

TnG R1ckx

Member
You have my attention on this build. I would love to hit this level one day

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Thanks! But this isn't much-- I'm not even close to the amount of detail skills some users here have. Doesn't mean I won't try tho :p

More photo's!
First of all my M7S. This beauty will be made to be as functional as possible, whilst still be stable enough so small kids can pick it up and even let it fall.
image1 (1).JPG
It has a couple of features, including:
-Folding grip:
image5 (1).JPG
-Detachable magazine with magnet locks:
image2 (1).JPG
image3 (1).JPG
(I got 2 more of those, not shown)
-And a (reverse) bolt-thingy:
image6.JPG
image7.JPG
(It's reverse and so small because I had limited space to work with-- my drillbit wasn't that long..)
The SMG is nowhere near done tho. I still need to add a lot of detail, paint (It's not painted yet, only a test-paint) and more smooting.

Secondly: The whole armor set I've made so far put next to eachother:
image1 (2).JPG
Notice the missing shoulders... whoops :p
Also, you might be able to see something else which is still VERY wip..


EDIT: I really don't get it. Some pictures are tilted like before but some are correct and others upside down now... argh.
 
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