he4thbar's 1st Build(complete) - ODST (full suit pg. #7)

he4thbar

Active Member
Photo dump time. Got everything fastened except the boots. Time finish my helmet.
IMG_20190922_215827.jpg

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The thighs, shins, and shoulders are held in place by heavy duty snap fastners, thanks Sean Anwalt for the suggestion & PaiganBoi for the examples. Gauntlets are friction fit but I have to loosen some of the foam up to get my hands further in. the crotch, butt, and hip plates are looped through my belt from the nylon straps creating a hanger for them.(they could have been forward more but it was late). Belt I tried velcro but will probably just do the nylon strap looping like I did with the butt & hip plates.
To preface I haven't glued my boot covers on that's why they are missing.
Also i'm pretty mobile in this build. can do squats and walk around easily, can't crouch super far down without squishing the thighs but it can be done. also I can sit down in it.
 
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he4thbar

Active Member
Heck yes, man. That's lining really good! Now you need a weapon.
I definitly have enough foam leftover... i'm thinking BR, but a SMG would be easier. Don't wanna get ahead of myself though I gotta get my helmet done first :lol:. Luckly my first con isn't till november so I have time for the weapon. Halloween however is closer and just needs the costume.
 

RandomRanger

Sr Member
I definitly have enough foam leftover... i'm thinking BR, but a SMG would be easier. Don't wanna get ahead of myself though I gotta get my helmet done first :lol:. Luckly my first con isn't till november so I have time for the weapon. Halloween however is closer and just needs the costume.
My vote goes towards making the H3: ODST silenced smg.
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
I definitly have enough foam leftover... i'm thinking BR, but a SMG would be easier. Don't wanna get ahead of myself though I gotta get my helmet done first :lol:. Luckly my first con isn't till november so I have time for the weapon. Halloween however is closer and just needs the costume.
Vote for BR!
 

PaiganBoi

Sr Member
I definitly have enough foam leftover... i'm thinking BR, but a SMG would be easier. Don't wanna get ahead of myself though I gotta get my helmet done first :lol:. Luckly my first con isn't till november so I have time for the weapon. Halloween however is closer and just needs the costume.
I am particular to the DMR myself.
 

he4thbar

Active Member
I'll probably do SMG, I know I have enough foam for that at least haha. And man someone on the facebook group just pointed out I put the crotch plate and belt on upside down, G Dangit! luckly i can just flip the belt, but crotch plate I might have to leave alone or just make the straps hang a little further down when reattaching upside down.
 

ZP180

Active Member
Better to go too light than too much and be sanding for weeks. It's looking good.

How did you attach the straps to the crotch plate? If it's hot glue, a little rubbing alcohol should pull off no problem. A little more risky since they're already painted, but if it bugs you enough to change and not enough to remake the part it's an option.
 

he4thbar

Active Member
Better to go too light than too much and be sanding for weeks. It's looking good.

How did you attach the straps to the crotch plate? If it's hot glue, a little rubbing alcohol should pull off no problem. A little more risky since they're already painted, but if it bugs you enough to change and not enough to remake the part it's an option.
Thank you! And I used contact cement.. so I have a feeling the paint would come with it even if I used rubbing alcohol.
 

Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
I agree with RandomRanger. The helmet is looking good. And don't worry about adding more bondo, it's a natural part of the bondo process. Another layer or two and some wet sanding with 400 grit paper and that puppy is going to shine!

As for the crotch plate, try cutting the straps free with a razor by sliding it in between the plate and the straps, then once free, you'll need to touch up the plate front, since it will probably be marred. A little acetone on a rag will help. Though you'll need to repaint it.

Shouldn't be a huge issue, hopefully.
 

xXDashIVXx

Well-Known Member
I
So apparently I went too light on my first Bondo layer which is fine, I'll have to give it another layer of Bondo to fill the negatives and sand again
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Just because that is how it works, you may end up needing more than one coat. I reccomend while the bondo is still curing, sculpt it as much as you can to get the shape you want, but still keep the layers thin so you dont have to do extra sanding. Try and just fill inside the pepakura lines on the top and keep the edges as they are. This will smooth it out the best
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
I

Just because that is how it works, you may end up needing more than one coat. I reccomend while the bondo is still curing, sculpt it as much as you can to get the shape you want, but still keep the layers thin so you dont have to do extra sanding. Try and just fill inside the pepakura lines on the top and keep the edges as they are. This will smooth it out the best
This is the trick here to save time and sandpaper! I do the same when working on 3D prints with a razor to trim off excess blobs when the Bondo has gone past the point of no return of no longer being a smooth paste and starts looking like oatmeal when spread.
 

he4thbar

Active Member
Update time, last weekend I did sanding and then covered the whole thing in spot putty cuz why not.
Then last night I sanded down again and filled in the negative with more spot putty.
I did final sanding starting at grit 120 -> 220 -> 320 -> 600 -> 1200
I can say this thing is buttery smooth on most of it besides some crevices that were hard to reach.
Pictures: 1st was first spot putty pass, 2nd was showing fill spots. The rest were after the 1200 grit pass
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Now to start adding the detail lines with my Dremel I think...
 
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