"Help!" for: Painting

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by 23Magnum, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. 23Magnum

    23Magnum Well-Known Member

    This thread will contain general first hand knowledge of painting props and costumes.

    People who don't know: Post questions.

    People who know: Answer those questions.

    Please be as clear and detailed as possible with your questions and/or answers. Repeated questions or variations of certain questions may be consolidated over time into an FAQ section in the post following this one.

    Always ask and answer questions as if you were asking/answering your mother or grandmother. In other words, politely.

    Rudeness and/or impatience will be met with an infraction. You don't want too many of those.

    These threads are meant to reduce and hopefully eliminated the need for the numerous 'I need help threads' that seem to generate endlessly in this section of the forum.

    They are not a be all, end all to all questions that could ever be asked though. Some questions will be project specific and you may need to ask those IN the project's thread itself. However, some may not see your questions there so you may post a link to said project thread in the appropriate "Help!" thread when you need the attention of a few extra eyes.
     
  2. 23Magnum

    23Magnum Well-Known Member

    FAQ Section:
     
  3. 23Magnum

    23Magnum Well-Known Member

    Tutorials that involve this thread's subject matter and are approved by the site staff will be linked in this post. Please review them as they may already contain the answers you seek.

    Tutorial Section:
     
  4. 0235

    0235 Member

    how do you create that scratched effect for paint. i have done 2 layers of silver, then 2 layers of white (MY CHOSEN ARMOUR COLOUR) but when i start sanding down the white, it eiter dosent take enough off, or goes straight through the silver and into the filler! do i need to put a coating over the silver, like a scratch resistant coating?
     
  5. 23Magnum

    23Magnum Well-Known Member

    First, please post your questions in the proper help thread. It will help you immensely for getting your question answered properly. I had to move your post from the "Forum Usage" thread to here.

    As far as the wear painting effect, this is the technique Sean showed me. After you have done your silver coating and let it dry, used a hand paint brush to add a resist material in the patterns and places you don't want the white to be. The thing that Sean has found to work best for this resist material is simply cheap toothpaste. Once you have all the resist/toothpaste in place, you can spray over it with your white paint. After it drys, you can use a damp sponge or towel to wipe away where the white paint where the toothpaste is laying underneath giving you that wear and tear look. It takes a bit of practice to apply the right amount so don't worry if you don't exactly get it the way you want it the couple first times.
     
  6. Cjsuner

    Cjsuner Member

    I am not sure exactly what you mean when you say scratch, but if you mean you want the "metal" to show through the white then i can help you with that.
    Step 1: Take some mustard from the kitchan, or toothpaste from bathroom.
    Step 2: With whatever kind of paste you chose ( i am gonna referter to mustarrd throught this awsner) bring your armor inside, over the kitchen sink.
    Step 3: You should have already painted your armor the "metal" color, but not your armor color
    Step 4: Take your Mustard, and open the cap.
    Step 5: Start put lines of mustard onto your armor of where you want the silver to show through the color of your armor (usually around edges, and high points)
    Step 6: Paint your armor however you want to after you put on the mustard (leave the mustard on until you are done painting!)
    Step 7: after everything is dry, take a cloth, or paper towl or whatever, and start to wipe off the mustard. it will take a few passes because the mustard will squirt out and other stuff...
    Step 8: Make sure you have gotten all the mustard off, and then where the Mustard just was, the silver paint will be showing through!
    Step 9 (Not needed): Mix black, grey, and white water based paint (like the apple barrel brand) together in a bowl, add some water, and then take a brush, and just slather it on thickly and quickly. then, quickly wipe it all off with a paper towl, it should leave dark streaks and shadowing..
    Step 10: Seal your armor with clear coat!

    Hope this helped!
     
    Arquitenes likes this.
  7. ShadyTrojan

    ShadyTrojan New Member

    You could also try the Dry brush method. Use a small brush and coat it very lightly with spray paint or only dip the very tip into the bottle, then wipe the majority off on a rag or towel. Now brush lightly starting at the edges or corners in your armor and paint inwards so that you have the effect of fading into your overcoat color. Be patient and don't over do it.
     
  8. Liq

    Liq Well-Known Member

    before you went over the silver with the white you were supposed to squirt mustard, toothpaste or vasoline on the areas you wanted to keep silver and make look like chips. You have 2 options here, either repaint the piece silver and do the condiment thing, or dry brush silver spraypaint on it with a cheap paintbrush.
     
  9. Dundee

    Dundee New Member

    I found the brush method surprisingly easy. Gave the brush a one second burst of chrome spray paint and then just hit the edges, and smudged some of the flat surfaces with the brush almost dry.

    One thing I did learn is to do the black (when you spray then wipe it down to give it that dirty weathered look) wait untill your base coat is all the way dried (read cured after 24hrs) or when you try to wipe it will pull on the base coat and not come off even. In the end it worked out for me because those spots looked like burn marks.
     
  10. Boba Fett

    Boba Fett Well-Known Member

    AH!!!! NONONONONO!!!! Not toothpaste or that crud! It gives you a very soft edge. For combat chips, you want HARD edged chips, straight lines and jagged lines. Not curvey stuff. What you want to do is use masking tape in the shape of the chip you want, and possibliy combine it with salt. Wet the area, sprinkle salt, and let dry. Spray, and remove. That gives you a very jagged edge that looks like shrapnel blasts and chipping. toothpaste makes it look totally unrealistic, unless you're trying to mask off say a burn mark.
     
  11. Hugh Holder

    Hugh Holder Well-Known Member

    Anybody know of a place (for sure) to get gunmetal gray spraypaint. Not quite as dark as black primer, but just light enough to notice a color variation?

    I've looked online, at home depot, hobby lobby, and wal-mart and I cannot seem to find the right shade.

    Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
     
  12. Nintendude

    Nintendude Well-Known Member

    I've used Ghost Grey Flat Spray Paint from Wal-Mart for things in the past it's pretty close to Gun Metal.

    Now my helpful painting tip: To give your armor a worn and metal showing look this is what you need to do to it. First coat the armor with primer, grey red or black does'nt matter, but I would stick with grey or black primer. Now get chrome paint and spray areas that you will want to show out, now after you have sprayed a couple coats in the areas you want it to show spray your armor color on top of the chrome paint once it dries take a very fine grit sandpaper and scratch away a little of the top coat to reveal the chrome underneath, try to not go through the chrome to the primer which is why you do more than one coat of chrome in the areas you want to show up.
     
  13. ventrue

    ventrue Well-Known Member

    If all else fails, you can get an airbrush set and mix the colour yourself. That is more work though, because with airbrush it isn't just open-empty-trash - you'll actually have to clean that afterwards ;-)
     
  14. Hugh Holder

    Hugh Holder Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the advice guys :)

    I'll check wal-mart again Nintendude, thanks. I probably should look at getting an airbrush at some point in the future. Ventrue, do you suggest any particular brush? Perhaps one geared for mid-sized objects like props?
     
  15. ventrue

    ventrue Well-Known Member

    I'm afraid not, I was just pointing them out as an alternative. I have never gotten around to actually buy one myself because they are so much more work than a simple paintbrush (which was totally sufficient for the 1:72 models I used to work on) or even a spray can (as I said: Open, use, throw away.. :)).
     
  16. Nintendude

    Nintendude Well-Known Member

    I can suggest brushes for props to get your base color onto the prop use a wide brush to get the little details painted use smaller brushes to get into grooves and get the little details painted out.
     
  17. rumble

    rumble Member

    I can only find it in O'Reilly Auto Parts - check through the duplicolor paints. Last time I tried to go buy some, I could only find the small cans though.
     
  18. J326

    J326

    ok I'm nearing the painting phase of my armor so I have a few questions:
    1) How many cans of Primer, and how many cans of paint does it take to paint the whole armor set?
    2) Is there any specific type(not color) of paint i should get?
    3)Do i seal the paint up with anything afterwards?
     
  19. Ruari

    Ruari New Member

    How would I go about painting on text, for example, my service tag, or UNSC?
     
  20. J326

    J326

    print it out on and use an exacto knife to cut out the lettering and the piece you now have is a stencil. Hold the stencil to the armor piece you plan to paint it on and then paint the cut out part of the stencil.
     
  21. Hickeydog

    Hickeydog Well-Known Member

    You will need 3-6 cans of both primer an paint (6-12 cans total)
    Not really. I used automotive paint, only because I was getting sandpaper, Bondo, and resin at the time.
    Don't need to seal it with anything.
     
  22. DR4296

    DR4296 Jr Member

    OK, I'm building War Machine armor (resin on the outside, rondo on the inside) as per forum information here.

    It seems to me that I've seen two "looks" to War Machine armor:

    1) One like a lot of the promotional photos for Iron Man 2... where the armor looks like really shiny / polished metal. (http://toonstar.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/ironmanwarmachinelarge.jpg)

    2) One that seems more "gritty", where the metal looks more "solid", like unpolished iron. (http://ohellnawlblog.com/newohnblog.../iron-man-2-war-machine-jim-rhodes-rhodey.jpg)


    Any thoughts on how one can best recreate either of these "looks" (when painting what is essentially resin-covered paper)?
     
  23. rumble

    rumble Member

    I believe the suit starts out shiny and by the end of the tangling with Iron Man, it's a bit more scuffed up. The second shot is also from a dark scene so that will make the metal look different. I don't believe the suit is actually that dark when he shows up in the day later. The picture resolution also looks kinda off. I'd pull more high res screenshots from the movie to make sure - can't remember exactly. A weathered suit will be definitely easier to maintain.

    For the shiny suit, I think that investigating metalic silver paints will help. I'm sure there's guys on here that can help on what they used for War Machine. For the weathered suit, you'd still start with the shiny color (because that's what the suit starts out as), get your scratches with a resist, but then weather the top coat down heavily with black wash and black/dark gray acrylics.
     
  24. docbayless

    docbayless New Member

    For unit markings: I have used transparancy sheets over the original design and then cut out the details with the exacto knife. If there are several colors or designs incorporated you can overlay several different ones to get the effect. Kind of like silkscreening. Touch ups for over spray can be done with a small brush and the base coat color, somewhat like dry brushing.

    I have an Aztek airbrush, but like it was said, it is a lot of work. The parent company is Testors, like the old modelors used to use. You need to clean it or your out what you paid for it. Those azteks are around $300 bucks and have to be tended to when your not actually spraying anything, because the get gummed up inside and are useless if you don't. Not to mention you need a small compressor to run them. They do a great job shading though. I have used the canned air pressure type along time ago, but they are not reliable for detailing. Matching colors sucks to. You would have to use one type of paint, either spray can or modelers paint, on the whole thing. it is too hard to match them seperately. Doc
     
  25. J326

    J326

Share This Page