Help needed

s meisters

Jr Member
I've waisted about 200 sheets of CS trying to make FS's pep helm, is anybody else having a lot of trouble on it? These are the materials I'm working with:

- 110lb CS
- Elmers instant krazy glue
- Guillotine modeling knife
- Metal ruler

First off the krazy glue is ****, it says "Bonds skin on contact" but that is obviously false advertisment at its finest. I could poor this stuff in my eyes and still be able to blink. The paper is too thick to be able to fold it small enough for some of the details, I know it's possible but I can't seem to get it. Does anybody have ANY tips at all? What can I do to conquor this foul beast? I've been told that I'm Mr. Prescision, and that's probably true. I need to see someones pics of their FS helmet while they're making it, I want to know what I should expect from a WIP FS helmet.
 

supertaco

Member
You have to push really hard when You are using the pens. I also would try using a razor blade Like the ones that are rectangular.
there are pics of the ones i use in my blog.
 
Ok I have not done Fs's pep helm but I am almost done with Df4l smooth helm. Its very challenging so maybe I can help here. First problem it sounds like you need a new glue. I have been using Super glue with good results. Some people on here don't like it due to how easy it is to glue your finger together. Barring that You can use hot glue just have to be careful not to burn yourself. And last but not least we have a new glue introduced to us by NullArc. See his Ultimate pepakura glue thread.

Your next issue seems to be folds. Now don't get angry but are you using ink pens or that modeling knife to score the fold lines? I use two deferent colored ball point ink pens to score my folds as described in the stickys and have no problem. Only the smallest pieces with a lot of close folds give me problems but I manage to muddle through them.
 

s meisters

Jr Member
supertaco said:
You have to push really hard when You are using the pens. I also would try using a razor blade Like the ones that are rectangular.
there are pics of the ones i use in my blog.
Wow. Did you mean that I should use the razor blade as a knife, or use it for scoring? And how did you go about gluing it?

EDIT:

To Spartan 161, yes I am using my modeling knife to score my pieces because I can never get the flaps to fold sharp enough. Although when I use the knife it cuts through my paper to much.
 
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Ral Partha

Sr Member
s-meister said:
Wow. Did you mean that I should use the razor blade as a knife, or use it for scoring?
No, don't use any of these. You might cut through the paper. I use a small flat head screw driver or a jeweler's screw driver to score it. No matter how small the flaps, you can get sharp folds if you score the paper first.

s-meister said:
And how did you go about gluing it?
I use Elmer's glue. When it dries, the bond becomes quite hard, giving the armor the necessary stiffness before resining. Just use a VERY thin layer of the glue on the flaps so that it will dry within seconds.

EDIT: Read this thread:

http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2043
 
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s meisters

Jr Member
So I've found a solution with the glue thanks to spartan 161, and I'm trying out the "screwdriver method" suggested by Ral Partha. Lets see how this goes.

*About 5 min. later*

kk, I've finished cutting out the first piece and I'm still not sure whether or not to use the "screwdriver method" or just use pens.
 
s-meister said:
kk, I've finished cutting out the first piece and I'm still not sure whether or not to use the "screwdriver method" or just use pens.

Why not try both and see what works for you. Glad the glue's I mentioned helped.
 
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I personally use pens, but I've also heard of people using seam rippers for scoring. Seems the flathead would work the same though. Also, if your using super glue, the normal Loctite stuff works the best. Doesnt soak into the paper, dries instantly, don't need to use alot...its good stuff.
 

Sigma LS

Sr Member
I think a thin blunt kitchen knife/fixed blade pocket knife works best for scoring. It makes a dent without cutting too much into the 110 cardstock and has more weight behind it than a smaller Xacto knife. However, I agree that it looks like a small flathead would do the trick too.
 

Robogenisis

Well-Known Member
I always use a x-acto knife or similar to score my lines. I just found that all the other scoring methods don't give you a sharp enough folds.
 

s meisters

Jr Member
Robogenisis said:
I always use a x-acto knife or similar to score my lines. I just found that all the other scoring methods don't give you a sharp enough folds.
That's what I did too. It works really well on the mountain folds, but the valley fold flaps come apart when I try to fold them. I'm gonna try a seam ripper and see how that works :D also I have some loctite lying around, does that stuff really work? It looks more like a paste then sticky glue.
 
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Ironcobra3000

Well-Known Member
I would suggest using Quick-grip for gluing, it works magical wonders, its like liquid rubber/superglue, it bonds well, quickly, not as quickly as super glue(in case you miss-align a piece), and it's Easy to use!!!

EDIT: Oh yeah, you can find it at Wallmart, Hobby-lobby and Micheals.
 

bevbor

Well-Known Member
s-meister said:
I've been told that I'm Mr. Prescision, and that's probably true.
I hope you have seen my helmet #2.
Made without any scoring at all.
Precise enough?
Why do you need scoring?
 
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Vader

Member
Someone has a link to the Yamaha papercraft tutorials in their sig, but I forget who it is. I've followed them and on the things I've worked on, it's really helped.
First, use one of those disposable boxcutter deals. I'm using X-acto knives right now, but I think having a smaller, cheaper alternative would work better. But I do like the pencil-like form of the x-acto knife.

And the tutorial suggest using a metal mechanical pencil without the lead. This really works well for me. Add the metal ruler and you get super perfect straight scoring. I have freehanded the last few projects and it works really well. If I were to use a ruler, it'd be even better.

BUT - I'm using a hot glue gun and that's mucking up the process. I have two cheap ones, and a bagfull of sticks. I just need to get a little better at applying the glue. If I were to use that stuff that someone else suggested (quart for $11), I might do better. But then again, I may not ;)
 

Ral Partha

Sr Member
Vader said:
Someone has a link to the Yamaha papercraft tutorials in their sig, but I forget who it is.
DF4L posted the link here:

http://405th.com/forums/index.php?s=&s...ost&p=97545

or you can go directly to the Yamaha website:

http://www.yamaha-motor.co.jp/global/enter...howto/0002.html

Click on the "Basic Instructions" and then click on the "Folding" link to watch the video.


Vader said:
BUT - I'm using a hot glue gun and that's mucking up the process. I have two cheap ones, and a bagfull of sticks. I just need to get a little better at applying the glue.
I use toothpicks to spread Elmer's glue on the flaps. :whistle: Its very fine point enables me to fully control the amount of glue to put in, even on the smallest flaps, so less mess.
 
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MC PwN 3R

Member
cool idea, using toothpick as precision and control with the glue.
in my opinion, glue gun works best, if ur fingers are heat resistant and can withstand 5 seconds of heat, then ur good to go. just a dot and spread it around with the nozzle of the glue gun, then quickly put the pieces together. try not to work in groups or section by section but piece by piece.
 

Robogenisis

Well-Known Member
I always score with an x-acto knife.

@ s-meister
To get good folds, without ripping, I score the top on mountain folds, then I score the bottom of the paper with valley folds. It gets greats folds everytime. :D

 
s-meister said:
I've waisted about 200 sheets of CS trying to make FS's pep helm, is anybody else having a lot of trouble on it? These are the materials I'm working with:

- 110lb CS
- Elmers instant krazy glue
- Guillotine modeling knife
- Metal ruler

First off the krazy glue is ****, it says "Bonds skin on contact" but that is obviously false advertisment at its finest. I could poor this stuff in my eyes and still be able to blink. The paper is too thick to be able to fold it small enough for some of the details, I know it's possible but I can't seem to get it. Does anybody have ANY tips at all? What can I do to conquor this foul beast? I've been told that I'm Mr. Prescision, and that's probably true. I need to see someones pics of their FS helmet while they're making it, I want to know what I should expect from a WIP FS helmet.
Which of FS's models are you using? I used his.
You must have got bad glue, cuz that's what i used and it was fine.
Heres some pics of my FS helm.
1107072057.jpg

1107072055a.jpg

1110071830.jpg

1222071536.jpg


Another thing for getting those really small folds...
Are you even scoring them? If so with what?
 
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Skullcandy Girl

Well-Known Member
I had to restart my FS helmet, mainly my fault because I screwed up by using super glue. It made the Cardstock insanely stiff so I couldn't correct any over/under folding I did, and it did make me stick to the cardstock XD So in my case i made some mistakes, so I'm starting over, I;m gonna get some smaller pep out of the way before I get back to his Helmet.

I ran my pens back and forth 2-3 times to do my scoring, and it didn't make the stock flimsy and I put a scrap sheet of paper to prevent from ink and grooves being put into my table. I don't want to slice up my table, and I'm pretty sure I'd over score everything with a razor, but that's just me, pens for me are slice proof. I had to make sure to use ballpoints, hahah I used those gel ink pens and those sucked major bootie. I also have tiny skinny hands and fingers so folding the small stuff wasn't bad for me.


Maybe you should take a break from it too :)
 
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