Help!

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Sgt NVC CAP

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I need help i have tryed the hot glue method and nerly burned dow the house. My dad wont do the Hot Glue method anymore and he refusese to do the Bondo resen so i need another way to harden my armor. SO PLZ HELP!!! :oops: :mad:
 
Go to a friends house and try again. This time don't burn the house down. Just a suggestion, I would never say do anything against your parents.

Ithica
 
There are many methods to harden your pep pieces with the safest and most reliably sturdy I can think of being the smooth-cast 300. You still need to wear rubber gloves (not latex rubber, durable rubber such as concrete pour gloves) when actually doing the pour, and you need a big piece of cardboard to catch the spillage. I believe a respirator might also be a good idea, or at the very least a dust mask/safety glasses especially when sanding. But having worked with the stuff extensively I've never noticed any fumes/irritation, but since it sounds like you're a minor always do safety first.

Considering that the hot glue method is another safe and reliable method I'm a little curious how you almost burnt down your house doing it.
 
Try using Aqua Resin!
I personally haven't used it (not sold in UK), but it should be sold in many hardware stores all across America.
I believe Skullcandy Girl used it to make her armour, and her's turned out AMAZING!

So if you can get your hands on some, definitely try it! Make sure to post pics of your armour if you do it; it'll be good to look at the outcome! ;)

=Ω24= Leyton
 
A Few Other Methods:

-Mod Podge
-Plaster Rolls (the type that they use to cast broken bones)
-Sorta Clear 40 (from the SmoothOn website; this stuff is for making RTV molds but it will work like hot glue if you get it 1/4" - 1/2" thick)
-Truck Bed Liner (the spray on hard type)
-Paper Mache (would work the best with Sobo Glue, then lacquer to seal it)
-Silicone Adhesive (squeeze in 1/2 a tube and brush it around to a uniform thickness of 1/4", then wait 24 hours to cure; wear gloves!)
-Great Stuff (if you don't mind doing a little carving)
-Carbon Fiber Epoxy (Expensive, but strong! Wear a respirator!)
 
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BFDesigns said:
A Few Other Methods:
-Carbon Fiber Epoxy (Expensive, but strong! Wear a respirator!)
Epoxy resin is epoxy resin, whether it's used to bond carbon fiber or fiberglass, or even kevlar. It is expensive, but FAR less toxic than the polyurethane resin most people use. A respirator is always a good idea and should be worn. One important thing, though. Some people naturally have allergies to epoxy, and it is VERY easy to sensitize to it. ALWAYS wear gloves (and long sleeves)when working with epoxy. Sensitized means you break out into a crazy rash whenever you come in contact with the resin. It can occur from contact with the resin, so wear appropriate safety gear.
 
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UNSC_Leatherneck said:
Epoxy resin is epoxy resin, whether it's used to bond carbon fiber or fiberglass, or even kevlar. It is expensive, but FAR less toxic than the polyurethane resin most people use. A respirator is always a good idea and should be worn. One important thing, though. Some people naturally have allergies to epoxy, and it is VERY easy to sensitize to it. ALWAYS wear gloves (and long sleeves)when working with epoxy. Sensitized means you break out into a crazy rash whenever you come in contact with the resin. It can occur from contact with the resin, so wear appropriate safety gear.

I know my epoxies. Trust me, 5 minute epoxy is not the same as this stuff. The world of thermosetting plastics (epoxy) is incredibly varied as each different variant possesses different properties. There is the general purpose epoxies that you buy at the store, then there's the ultra high strength environmental stress resistant epoxy that they use when they put the leading edge of the wing on a Boeing 777, there's epoxies that they use in space, there's also epoxies that are used in the jewelry field (my field) that we use to cast with, and epoxies in the CAD field that are laser cured and solvent resistant. I've got a whole paper on the stuff somewhere but trust me, if you tried to bond carbon fiber together at the recommended 6 sheets with all purpose epoxy, the results would be disastrous, regardless of its cure time!
 
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Also, not mentioned, scratch build (my favorite - thanks Link :D) and the old standby cardboard and hotglue (sometimes the only way to go if you are as masterful as monstermaker hehe).

Cheers,
Kensai
 
BFDesigns said:
I know my epoxies. Trust me, 5 minute epoxy is not the same as this stuff. The world of thermosetting plastics (epoxy) is incredibly varied as each different variant possesses different properties. There is the general purpose epoxies that you buy at the store, then there's the ultra high strength environmental stress resistant epoxy that they use when they put the leading edge of the wing on a Boeing 777, there's epoxies that they use in space, there's also epoxies that are used in the jewelry field (my field) that we use to cast with, and epoxies in the CAD field that are laser cured and solvent resistant. I've got a whole paper on the stuff somewhere but trust me, if you tried to bond carbon fiber together at the recommended 6 sheets with all purpose epoxy, the results would be disastrous, regardless of its cure time!
I was not suggesting that 5 minute epoxy resin was what you were referring to. I was talking about the same thermosetting plastics you discuss. I was just pointing out that calling it "carbon fiber epoxy" is a bit of a misnomer, sort of how people refer to the polyester resins as "fiberglass resin." I can be picky about nomenclature. I know about the aerospace grade stuff, I see it all the time in parts on aircraft. I also know a few people who have built their own airplanes using epoxy resins. I'm not totally ignorant when it comes to this stuff.
 
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There's also Ducktape and cardboard. Just be aware you will be going through quite a few rolls of tape and that you can't get very many details into your suit using it
 
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