How do I cut a 3d print file into smaller parts?

Rusty 714

Member
I am about to start making my first suit with a 3d printer. Most of the files for Noble 6 that I found on thingiverse are small enough to fit my Creality CR10 3d printer, but the chestplate is way too big.
Screenshot (57).png

The blue lines are the borders of the print bed. I cant make it smaller because it won't fit me anymore. What program would I use to cut it into 8 separate pieces to print separately? I would appreciate other advise as well because this is my absolute first time doing anything related to armor cosplay.
 

TurboCharizard

Division PR, RMO and BCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Depending on the complexity of the model, Meshmixer might just cry and give up. If that happens I import stl files into Fusion 360 as a mesh and then start manipulating and cutting in there.
 

Rusty 714

Member
Sorry that I'm dumb and can't figure this out at all (LOL) but, How do I save them as separate pieces? Also why are there so many pieces on the right?
Screenshot (72).png
 

Rusty 714

Member
HUURAAH! Thanks NobleTravis! I still need to divide the pieces further but it worked! THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH! It would have taken me ages to figure this out on my own! (y):D(y)
Screenshot (76).png
 

Rusty 714

Member
Actualy I just realized I still have one problem... is there a way to make it solid without getting rid of the details? I need to fill in the red part so it prints right.
Screenshot (77).png


But when I click (make solid) the details get smudged.
Screenshot (78).png

:confused: What do I do? does it actually need to be solid to "BE SOLID" ???
I mean do I need to MAKE SOLID for the print to come out sturdy? The red part will end up with supports in it right? That wouldn't be very sturdy... would it?
 

Chooka

Member
If you have a good contact with the bed in a few spots the red (needs support) spots are fine. If your adhesion is mediocre I would use a brim. That way you will have more contact.

As for supports, you have two real options in Cura, regular and Tree. Regular builds the classic ‘scaffolding’ style pillars, where tree can actually wrap around a print and get spots that are not directly over the bed...very helpful...adds lots of print time lol. They are found under ‘experimental’ in settings. You can YouTube some settings for them :)

Edit: ignore the red part haha. Pictures didn’t load, so I assumed you were talking about Cura’s overhang warning.

It looks to have happened during your split. I’m unfamiliar with this software :/
 

Gnilrets

New Member
What i do in Meshmixer when slicing things up is go to analysis and click "inspector". Click the auto repair all if there is any errors. then on the left panel ill click "edit" then plane cut. when using plane cut, make sure to change the cut type to keep both. make your cut... then select "separate shells". Last step is with select each part (one at a time) and in the left panel click the export button, being sure to save as STL. word of advise is to label each part so you look at the name and know exactly which part it is.
 

Rusty 714

Member
What i do in Meshmixer when slicing things up is go to analysis and click "inspector". Click the auto repair all if there is any errors. then on the left panel ill click "edit" then plane cut. when using plane cut, make sure to change the cut type to keep both. make your cut... then select "separate shells". Last step is with select each part (one at a time) and in the left panel click the export button, being sure to save as STL. word of advise is to label each part so you look at the name and know exactly which part it is.
THANK YOU! it works perfectly! It still has a slight hole at the corners but I don't really care. I'll just fill it in with some kind of putty or something. :D (y)
 

Chooka

Member
Just be careful that it isn’t modeling it hollow. If you can spin the piece and look in the hole (snicker). IF it looks like a cave, it WILL print like that. It won’t make an infil there. It will make 2 walls with nothing between. It sees it almost as an envelope, with one piece folded over on itself. It should see it as one piece, then it treats the walls as the outside, and fills the inside with your designated infil%.

Just to complicate things ;)

I use Windows 3D Builder. It’s free and already in windows 10. It’s very basic, but it does the basic things well. Measure, split, scale etc are very intuitive. But it doesn’t to much more than that haha.
 

TurboCharizard

Division PR, RMO and BCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Just be careful that it isn’t modeling it hollow. If you can spin the piece and look in the hole (snicker). IF it looks like a cave, it WILL print like that. It won’t make an infil there. It will make 2 walls with nothing between. It sees it almost as an envelope, with one piece folded over on itself. It should see it as one piece, then it treats the walls as the outside, and fills the inside with your designated infil%.

Just to complicate things ;)

I use Windows 3D Builder. It’s free and already in windows 10. It’s very basic, but it does the basic things well. Measure, split, scale etc are very intuitive. But it doesn’t to much more than that haha.
A quick way to check this is chuck it into a slicer of your choice, see if you get a non-manifold warning, see if it slices properly and if it properly generates gcode, give a quick scan of the layer range view to make sure it's properly generating infill.
 
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