I need help
- Thread starter Yeezy
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Callianis
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I'm committing a bit of a 'necro-crime' but since this hasn't been answered I wanted to potentially offer some solutions.
I think part of the problem in trying to find your head scale is that the photos you take will not be 'orthographic'. The lens may distort the image slightly so that any rulers behind your head may give a false reading.
When measuring my chest width for some armour I used some set squares, almost as if they were giant calipers. If you have a glossy painted door you can use whiteboard markers. If you have just a normal wall, lightly use a pencil then rub it out after the measurements are taken.
OR, instead of the ruler behind you, put it midway on top of your head and the side of your head.
At minimum you'll want a side shot and a front shot. Then you can make a rough head shape, or find one to import. As for importing a ready made head, maybe measuring the circumference of your head would be needed? I've no 3D modelling skill in that regard.
I don't think the measurement needs to be 100% perfect, as you'll want some breathing room in the helmet for things like your padding, cooling fans, other electronics, etc. The padding will also help the helmet to sit right on your head - eg if the top thickness is too thin it'll sit too low, and some padding will help with that.
Good luck
I think part of the problem in trying to find your head scale is that the photos you take will not be 'orthographic'. The lens may distort the image slightly so that any rulers behind your head may give a false reading.
When measuring my chest width for some armour I used some set squares, almost as if they were giant calipers. If you have a glossy painted door you can use whiteboard markers. If you have just a normal wall, lightly use a pencil then rub it out after the measurements are taken.
OR, instead of the ruler behind you, put it midway on top of your head and the side of your head.
At minimum you'll want a side shot and a front shot. Then you can make a rough head shape, or find one to import. As for importing a ready made head, maybe measuring the circumference of your head would be needed? I've no 3D modelling skill in that regard.
I don't think the measurement needs to be 100% perfect, as you'll want some breathing room in the helmet for things like your padding, cooling fans, other electronics, etc. The padding will also help the helmet to sit right on your head - eg if the top thickness is too thin it'll sit too low, and some padding will help with that.
Good luck
Dirtdives2424
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PaiganBoi
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Ha. The Noodle! The Nooodle!!
Sean Anwalt
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*bringing the thread back on track*
HaloGoddess' "How To Scale" and More Tutorial
There are a lot of tutorials about how to scale, and what I would do to avoid confusion is not do any 3D anything. Instead, just measure the 2D height of your head, from the bottom of your chin to the top of your head. That should give you one solid number. Type that number into the "height" of your helmet 2D menu scale settings, and that should give you a decent starting point.
Any modifications you make personally will then be fitted against the helmet you have made. (The VR headset, for example. You'd just build your own attachment for it and stick it to your helmet. How you do that is up to you.)
Good luck! Love to see how this works out!
HaloGoddess' "How To Scale" and More Tutorial
There are a lot of tutorials about how to scale, and what I would do to avoid confusion is not do any 3D anything. Instead, just measure the 2D height of your head, from the bottom of your chin to the top of your head. That should give you one solid number. Type that number into the "height" of your helmet 2D menu scale settings, and that should give you a decent starting point.
Any modifications you make personally will then be fitted against the helmet you have made. (The VR headset, for example. You'd just build your own attachment for it and stick it to your helmet. How you do that is up to you.)
Good luck! Love to see how this works out!
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I'm a fan of very precise measurements. Sometimes my digital calipers just aren't big enough and the woodworking clamps come out.
If you're designing the helmet as a 3D model, I find it's best to take orthographic projections style pictures for the top, side, front and back of your head so that you can use them as a canvas and calibrate according to measurement points and then build a dummy blob-avatar head for your model. Bonus points if you mark your reference points on your head and face with sharpie.
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