iron man helmet help!

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tyminator

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hey everyone im new to making stuff wit pepakura but i know how to do everything from reasearch and stuff but anyways my dad gave me this manikin head to use but he says i need to make it as big as my head so the helm wont warp but if i did that i wouldnt be able to get the helm off after fiberglassing it coulnt i just fiberglass it like sitting on a table???


and for the jaw i was thinking and doin a hindge system but idk how i can do that or i was gonna do those earth magnets in the helmet
 
Make sure you scale the helmet to YOUR head, not the mannequin's and then resin the outside so it's stiff enough to retain its shape while you fiberglass the inside. Btw, you're not going to fiberglass the helmet while it's still on the mannequin. That's just a silly idea.
 
Ok so first you gonna build the whole papermodel, then you can put the paperhelmet on the head.

Next step would be a very very thin coat of resin on the outside (not the inside), let it dry and repeat it till you have 2-3 coats.

Now "paint" the complete inside with resin and let it dry another time.

And now you can apply the Fiberglas with resin (ONLY ON THE INSIDE)

This will make you paperhelmet solid enough to apply carbodyfiller to it
( fine one , without fiberglas, its adds strengh but is horrible to sand)
 
Not sure which Iron man file you are using but all the ones I have seen, if you scale it correctly to your head you shouldn't be able to get the helmet on/off without cutting some part of it. Most people cut the back and either use magnets or some use velcro to hold the two pieces together again around your head. This is because the Iron Man helmet is so form fitting to your head that you can't get your head through the smaller opening at the bottom of the helmet near yoru neck area.


As far as the cutting it, again, most people pep it, resin, fiberglass (or rondo whatever hardening method you go with), then do some bondo work and then cut the helmet. Do it before the paint job but after all the bondo and sanding work is complete so both parts fit together correctly and neatly. Paint after you cut it incase you accidently ruin some of the paint job and will save time on touchups.
 
If you want to make the motorized hinge system that those electronically inclined people make (wish i knew enough about electronics to make mine do that) then you still should consider cutting the back of the helmet. The hinged face plate stops at the chin area usually and if that is still intact, you still wont be able to get your head through the bottom opening. The chin is left in place and the face plate hinges to meet up with it when closed. Unless you want the entire front of the helmet to swing up including the chin when it is hinged.
 
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