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Leiutenant Jaku, I'm going to be brutally honest w/ you.........I've done worse
......oh yes I have........but you have potential and room for improvement. Several points that scream out to me that I have also done in the past, is poor cuts. Either your blade isn't sharp (or sharp enough), your cut lines are not 100% straight, or your bevel isn't fully to the edge of the top of the foam so that the edges don't meet properly at the joint. These 3 things alone can cause the gaps you are currently suffering from in your pieces. A metal ruler can eliminate 60% of this problem right off the bat. So if you don't have one....get one. Any office or Art supply location will have. Don't use the plastic or wood ones....terrible.
Next is hot glue. This is something that can get out of hand. People swear by it while some people avoid it like the plague. It is a matter of preference. In your case, you have embraced in as most spectacular fashion. I'll be buying stock in a hot glue manufacturer before the end of the day. I would say less is more.....the less you see of it the better your joints will be. You can go crazy on the back end of anything for reinforcement.....but let's try not to get it on the outside of your pieces or visible during fabrication.
Gaps: This also is a topic of hot debate. How to fill in those dam holes. And again there are many ways that they can be fill in, and is a matter of preference. I have used hot glue, caulk, spackel (don't use), and Durram's water putty.....That last one is a form of plaster that air dries to a hard substance like plaster or joint compound but the PSI is much higher and is much more durable...I would not recommend that method for you unless you have extensive working experience w/ it, and yes I do. Now hot glue is a quick way to fill gaps that cools rapidly allowing you to continue working right after a minuet or two, but has a tendency of forming a concave "pit" as it cools depending on the size of the hole being filled. This can be filled in again later but will need to be either smoothed down w/ an implement or sanded down....which in of itself isn't easy. The foam around tends to sand quicker forming a mound of hot glue left behind. Now caulk has a viscosity that prevents it from forming that dip but can take several hours to cure....time that you can't touch the piece because it can distort the seam, pull away the caulk and the gap could reform. Both of these methods have their pluses and negatives but both work. I would also advise that depending on the size of the gap, a piece of blue painter's tape on the inside of the foam piece to prevent glue or caulk from just falling straight through. Caulk is also a bit easier to sand down so for those little holes...I use that. It gives you a bit more working time to smoothen out. And since it is a latex base, it won't eat the EVA but adhere to it better. The down side is you must use a paintable "flavor", because if you used one for the bathroom and sinks.....those are waterproof and won't take paint. Look for the painter's caulk.
Keep in mind.....this is my technique......you don't have to follow it if you have your own maddens to your method.
Now in your last batch of pics, I see you cut down 2 pieces of foam on chest right by the shoulders.....not sure why you did that. Is it because they were sitting too high or protruding too far out? Not sure.....regardless, they need a bit of help. Before I can do so, I need to know a bit more about the situation.
Overall, I agree w/
PerniciousDuke. One look and you knew its was a Venator chest piece.....so kudos to you. Now its on to detailing this bad boy out, filling in the gaps and painting. Great job man!!! Don't get discouraged........, we are our own worst critiques.