Looking for North Texas Resources

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Gaming Geek

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Hi all. I'm up here in the D/FW metroplex (specifically Arlington) and I was wondering if there was anyone else up in my part of the world.

I'm hoping that some of you more established armor designers would have an idea where I can look for good deals on materials. ...and where I could find someplace that I could work at.


Nothing like setting up the details of your project and realizing that your apartment is not the ideal place to do it. :(

Thank you for your help.
 
!

I'm from Arlington. I live just off New York.

Assuming you make pepakura armor, here are my suggestions:

Cardstock, glue, etc: Walmart in Grand Prairie (Not so sure about pricing at the one on Cooper, but it's probably the same)
Fiberglass Cloth: Walmart - $4.27, as I recall, for 8 square feet
Paint: Walmart - $3.27 per can; Lowe's - Something like that (Hammered Bronze Rustoleum looks AMAZING)
Resin: O'Reilly Auto Parts - $38.87 for 1 Gallon can
Bondo: Lowe's/O'Reilly/AutoZone - $20.67 for 1 Gallon can
Respirator: Lowe's - $40 for the starter kit, $20 for cartridges
Brushes: Lowe's - $6 for 8 2-inch brushes (Chip brushes)

I would also suggest buying a work table. I'd probably just buy a folding-leg card table at Walmart. Work in your open garage, since it's shaded, and if you have a breeze running through, it's a bit cooler. Also, it's outside and won't get urethane fumes in your house. I would STRONGLY suggest getting some fans.

If you can, insulate your garage doors (Foam on the panels), get an A/C unit for your garage (I know Fry's sells some good models), and work near the doors, with them cracked open.

If you don't have a garage (I guess you probably don't, since you say Apartment), I would suggest finding some friend who's cool with the idea. I know another guy who's trying to get into the community here. Maybe, we could all meet up at his place, or my place, some time? What general area of Arlington do you live in?
 
I'm literally across the street from UTA.

Great place, but it really has nowhere to do projects at. :(



And I'm kinda shocked there's no workroom at the college that students can use. I'm staff, so I'm not in any classes...but my college DID have a public arts studio for the students to use.
 
If you do decide to go the pepakura route of building, when you do the fiberglassing you won't want to do it in a room or garage that's even if the garage door is open you will want someplace that is away from people and you will want to have a respirator mask to protect yourself from the fumes. I also get my brushes at Wal-Mart and sometimes it's cheaper over Lowes. To get started with building a suit for example be expected to pay around 100 just to get started and when you're finished anywhere between 100-500 depending what you do and how much you put into it. Also the one thing that MC left off the list was sandpaper I would suggest getting a detailing power sander or getting a variety pack of sandpaper from Wal-Mart.
 
I'm still trying to work out what exactly I'll do for the body work.

I'm going to make the HEV suit from Half Life 2, and have been looking into various options that I can take. The pep/fiberglass route has nice results, but has some messy problems at the start. (fumes, finding a pep file to use at all).

I've thought about taking a pep model and using that as an alpha mold for casting the armor. I'm going to be casting some weapons anyways, and that would save me from having to get different types of supplies. But that also has fumes....and I'm not entirelly sure how to pour a mold of armor and have it fit a person. Maybe if I cut the armor into pieces...

But the trick that was used in the giant elite costume, using a hard foam mat and shaping it into armor? That might be a better bet for me. The cut trashcan plastic and use as armor base trick someone's showing in their iron man costume is nice as well.

I want to finalize my plans before I get started on the armor. There's nothing worse than getting into a project and having to start over from scratch because your plans were wrong. I've already worked out how to get full sound effects into the suit, and how to put in a LED flashlight... (why is that easier for me than making the armor itself, I don't know)
 
The foam mat probably won't work for you for a few reasons: it's not an easily-workable material, you're working from scratch, and its properties do not match those of your intended end. Peter's animatronic Elite used it because it roughly matches the consistency of the Elite's skin, he knew how to work the material, and well, it was a large, curvy project. In my experience, you can't get any sharp corners in it.

As for the garage note, if you're working by the garage door, there should be no problem, if it's partway open. Maybe, I just have a really big garage, but whenever I work, and I move to the house side of the room, I don't even smell it. And Urethane is strong-smelling.

Well, the sad fact of the matter is that there are hurdles when making high-quality armor. You could make cardboard armor. It's very cheap and non-toxic. But, let's be honest, that's neither great quality nor durable. (No offense to any of you cardboard armorers. I'm saying, typically) If you're good with clay and figuring out what something looks like in full scale in real life, you could make a clay form and buy expensive casting supplies, make a mold, and cast. This is really expensive, not the most durable, but probably the highest quality, and with the added bonus that your mold can be used to cast more, which you can sell.

Then, there's pepakura. It's pretty cheap. Download the free version of the program, buy some cardstock, resin, fiberglass, bondo, some Elmer's, and a respirator, and you have your basic needs. I'm sure you can find a place to work. As long as it's outside, and relatively away from people, and you make sure to wear a respirator, you're all set.

I'm not gonna say it's the only way. I'm just saying it's the way I prefer, and that's why I prefer it.

And, Nintendude, you're right. Sandpaper and a power sander are necessary. The other thing I forgot is rubber gloves. Latex, be sure. Nitrile and other types of gloves are too cumbersome. They're all fine for working with resin, but only latex is form-fitting enough, and flexible enough, in my opinion, to work well.

And, the reason electronics are easier than structure is because it's easier to string wires and components together than build complex papercraft or sculpt detailed forms, and make a hardened plastic (or glass-reinforced plastic) prop. I mean, I had fans, 3 batteries, and a potentiometer, and the wiring was easier in my helmet, than the actual build. Hell, even painting was harder.
 
Well - regarding the mats, there is a single part of the HEV armor that I think they will work wonderfully with.

The 'body armor' covering the torso, but under the chest piece.

I think that the texture of the mat will work well with it. It might be a bit thick, but I could thin it out without too much trouble.

As I said I've been researching this, and I'm trying to figure out what will work. I'm coming to the conclusion that I need to mix and match materials for this to look decent. :)


I ...think I can use a pep model with some modeling clay for support, and a layer of strengthening material on the outside, and use that as a mold for casting. It's an idea I'm investigating right now like I said. It might not pan out, but if it can work that really would make things easier in the long term. Fast replacement parts. :D


(edit 1)And you're right about the electronics. Makes sense when you put it like that. :p

Don't know if the painting's hard tho. I seem to be damn good at it, from the response I got from my prop crowbar.

(edit 2) Also, in the Elite costume? He used the foam for more than skin. He repainted and molded it into the armor pieces. Even managed to get them looking metallic. That was some of what I was interested in...if I could use them for the parts of the armor that are wrap-around, and match the texture to the parts that were more square.
 
Oh, well, yeah, that would be PERFECT for those sections of the armor. Texture's spot-on. Probably the same consistency.

If you think you can do it, go ahead and try. I think I came off a bit arrogant there. Sorry about that. If it works out, good for you. Tell us how you did it.

I haven't seen your prop crowbar, but if the general consensus is that it's good, I'll probably agree wholeheartedly.

And, holy scheiße, Texas. I forgot all about that. Sorry about my mistake.

Do what you will, man. Tell us how it goes. Keep us updated. I'll be sure to see how you're doing and give my two cents.

(And, fast parts, yeah. Cheap parts? No. Man, those casting plastics are expensive! :p)
 
Well, my camera that I was using to document the costume... crapped out on me on the first day of A-Kon. I lost everything that was on it, so all I have are the photos from the convention. Noone did any close-ups on the crowbar.

Me.jpg



But it was good enough that the security check-in freaked out when I first took it from the box, and I was stopped 3 times in under 50 feet on one floor. :D After the first day they'd all heard about the 'prop crowbar that looks real' and I wasn't hassled.

I mean, it's just a mold formed rubber model. Before I painted it it was..well, fake looking. :p

(And, fast parts, yeah. Cheap parts? No. Man, those casting plastics are expensive! :p)

Fast. Cheap. Good-Looking. Pick two for your costume.


Damn. That's almost sig-worthy. Hm...Needs a bit of work... :confused
 
Hey, if anyone's interested in the D/FW area, tomorrow at around sunset there will be a free outdoor showing of the 2009 Star Trek movie over in Fort Worth.

Enjoy "theater under the stars in the heart of downtown Fort Worth"! At Sundance Square, we'll view an outdoor feature at sunset (will likely roll about 8:30 but let's gather at 8ish).

They encourage you to bring blankets or chairs for seating. Folding chairs will also be available for rental.

You'll find your favorite cold beverages, popcorn and sweets available for purchase at the Sundance Square "snack bar". Outside food, drinks or coolers (and pets) are not allowed at the outdoor movie.

Parking is free after 5 pm at all Sundance Square parking lots and garages.

Star Trek is a chronicle of the early days of James T. Kirk and his fellow USS Enterprise crew members.

This film won an Oscar and four other wins & 44 other nominations.

Directions:
Arriving from North East (Hwy. 121) DFW Airport:
From Hwy. 121 merge south on I-35. From I-35, take the downtown exit. Take the 280 Spur to Downtown. At the split (6th Street/4th Street), take 4th Street. Proceed west on 4th Street to enter the Sundance Square area. Please click on Map #1 to see available parking locations.

Arriving from the North (I-35)
From I-35, take the downtown exit. Take the 280 Spur to downtown. At the split (6th Street/4th Street),take 4th Street. Proceed west on 4th Street to enter the Sundance Square area.

Arriving from the East (I-30) Arlington-Dallas area: (Option 1)
From I-30, take the 287/I-35W North exit (to Denton/Downtown). Take the 280 Spur to downtown. At the split (6th Street/4th Street) take 4th Street. Proceed west on 4th Street to enter the Sundance Square area.

Arriving from the East (I-30) Arlington-Dallas area: (Option 2)
From I-30, take the Summit Street exit to the right. Take a right turn on Summit and head North. Turn right on 7th Street and head east to Throckmorton Street. Go north on Throckmorton Street to 3rd Street (one way).

Arriving from the South:
From I-35, take the Downtown exit. Take the 280 Spur to downtown. At split (6th Street/4th Street) take 4th Street. Proceed west on 4th Street to enter the Sundance Square area.

Arriving from the West (I-30): (Option 1)
From I-30, exit U.S. 287 North to 280 Spur. Take the 280 Spur to downtown. At the split (6th Street/4th Street) take 4th Street. Proceed west on 4th Street to enter the Sundance Square area.

Arriving from the West (I-30): (Option 2)
From I-30, exit Summit Street. Take a left onto Summit and head North. Turn right on 7th Street head east to Throckmorton Street. Go north on Throckmorton Street to 3rd Street (one way).
 
Wait, YOU were realistic-crowbar dude? Holy snarf! I saw you!

And I'm sure if you're aware or not the sheer age of the armor triangle. Fast, Cheap, and Good-looking. You get 2 points of the triangle, MAX.
 
Wait, YOU were realistic-crowbar dude? Holy snarf! I saw you!

And I'm sure if you're aware or not the sheer age of the armor triangle. Fast, Cheap, and Good-looking. You get 2 points of the triangle, MAX.

Were you there in your Halo armor?

I stopped to ask a few of the people about their armor. Was getting feedback on what they did and used. Wonder if you were one of them.

Did you see that Mandorian armor guy? l can't believe that he used full metal plating for his suit. MAN that had to be uncomfortable.


Yep. The triangle makes sense. :p I think I'm gonna have to go with Cheap and Good-Looking myself.
 
Nah, my armor wasn't done in time. I saw the dude in the Bungie mold and ML7 Marauder, from this forum, but they were it.

I think I saw the Mando, but that was about it.

Me, I'm ending up going for fast and cheap. Gotta get the whole suit done in time for Reach, but I can't spend too much more money.
 
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