Soft Parts Magnum's Undersuit

[23Magnum]

So, I've actually got something to show for my suit now, but a picture says a thousand words. So here's two slightly different ones.

(Click for Larger Pics)


The one on the left is half of a pattern I'll be using to make a base full bodysuit for the undersuit. I just have to mirror this for the other half. The image on the right is just to give you some reference in size. This type of pattern yields a single seam on the front or back(this case the back) and to seams running along the inside hem of the legs.

The tutorial I used online to make this pattern was rather complicated and I intend to simplify it for others here to use. I will say that you may have to work a little harder at drawing it as I had the assistance of a CAD program and a 24" plotter to print out what you see.

As soon as I get the base suit done, I'll start adding the details for the exposed sections of the undersuit.

Hopefully, I'll have more on this over the weekend.

Later,
Magnum

Edit:
Update #1: Post #10

 

[UNSC Leatherneck]

If I may ask, what fabric have you selected for the undersuit? There has been considerable debate on the subject in the undersuit and soft armor forum, so I'm interested to see what you have chosen.

 

[Loess]

Hmmm... Leather? Rubber? Nylon? What's this going to be made of? The pattern looks intriguing.

 

[Serpent ZX]

3 lines of stitching is going to be tight. If thats what you said anyways... Usually, you hem the whole edge going all the way around, then you backstitch it once again. It makes a fine finished seam, on the inside and backside, not umcomfortable cause of a hemmed flap on the edge, and is actually strongest. I am not sure how much experience you have sewing, or using a machine, or what type of tutorial your using, but lots of times, any type of upholstery or sewing tuts leave LOTS out. Just remember to 'give' yourself a little when sewing. What I mean by that, is just make sure you have extra slack. It always comes in handy, and you can always get rid of it later easily.

 

[CPU64]

3 lines of stitching is going to be tight. If thats what you said anyways... Usually, you hem the whole edge going all the way around, then you backstitch it once again. It makes a fine finished seam, on the inside and backside, not umcomfortable cause of a hemmed flap on the edge, and is actually strongest. I am not sure how much experience you have sewing, or using a machine, or what type of tutorial your using, but lots of times, any type of upholstery or sewing tuts leave LOTS out. Just remember to 'give' yourself a little when sewing. What I mean by that, is just make sure you have extra slack. It always comes in handy, and you can always get rid of it later easily.

Yep, sewing isn't hard, but not everyone has the natural skills for it.. I was pretty much born into my parents upholstery shop. I knew how to sew before i could ride a bike.
Now my mom has a little drapery workroom, and her helper has been sewing for over 30 years. Yet she still produces noob looking results and my mom (an awesome seamstress) has to fix things all the time.

I do more of the automotive side of upholstery. Once you get the hang of redoing a set of Corvette seats to match factory stitching, you'll look at a spartan under-suit and say: Bring it on!

I would also recommend more pieces to the suit, to better contour the shape of the body.. Well, unless you're using SPANDEX.. LOL

 

[23Magnum]

The fabric isn't the best, but I'll just have to make due. It's a suit type fabric. It's not stretchy at all, but it's somewhat comfortable to the touch. I'm going to use Vinyl for the exposed panels.

This is really all just experimental and I'll probably mess something up. I've had very little experience sewing, but I'm confident I'm a quick learner.

The tutorial I spoke of only really talked about the process of making the pattern and the order in which you're suppose to sew all the seems together. No talk of best types of stitching and what not. The pattern did call for a 90% reduction of all the measurements, but I didn't put that in seeing as I was not using a fabric that stretches. I figure if something doesn't quite fit, I could always make adjustments later with the extra fabric.

I might actually incorporate multiple pieces, but I wanted to get the pattern cut out at least and pin it together to see how well it'll fit before I do that.

Scott and CPU, sounds like you two are rather experienced with this so any suggestions and comments to make this process easier are most welcome(and possibly needed).

Thanks in advance.

 

[Loess]

If you're using a cloth that doesn't stretch, you'll want to add a little to all the measurements, both for seam allowance and for "ease" so that you can move. Sorry I can't help much with advice, all I've sewn are reenacting clothes.

 

[Serpent ZX]

There isn't much advice I can give besides, you'll get the hang of it rather quickly. But there are certain techniques that require a person to be present to show sometimes. Sewing is a skill that for some reason gets you made fun of, but when people come over, and ask who made this, and where can you buy that, and you tell them you made it... They start to ask favors all of a sudden. The upholstery shop at work, I have a few guys lay patterns out for me, and I do all the sewing cause I go really fast. But for some reason a lot of people always make the same mistake... The folds.

Say if you want to hem the edge. You want the hem to be about 1/2" wide. You need 1" of material. When folding, you double measurements. It would be best to make your measurements for what you need, lay it out, then add extra lines around it for hems, and folds. And like I said before, don't be afraid to give yourself extra on some folds. I am not much of a teacher... More of a hands on type of guy. Most of the brain work is in the pattern. And then the skill is in the sewing. But if your not experienced enough, templates are your friend. Most of the hard parts of sewing come when you have to sew a whole project through a small hole, or pocket you made just so you can get your stinking face stitch on... But don't worry about that. LOL

 

[23Magnum]

Seem allowance was something they said to consider, but I wasn't sure how much. I figured I could leave an extra 2 inches or so and cut off any excess later, but since I didn't allow for any slack in the pattern I might increase that by a few more inches.

Last experience I had with sewing was in Home Economics class in Middle School(or High School can't remember). I made a bag and a pair of boxer shorts. I got an A on both. Teacher said I was pretty good for not having prior experience. Anyway, I'm pretty confident in getting the job done. Its just going to take some patience and a steady hand.

As for being made fun of, the girl I'm seeing has already taken care of that. Though when I asked her if she knew how to sew, she promptly quite talking and left me alone.

Oh, and no update today, but hopefully after tonight I'll actually get to the sewing part.

 

[23Magnum]

Woo, update. Small one really, but still an update.

Anyway, here's is the pattern cut out in the base material with plenty for seam allowances and folds.

I gave myself a generous 2-3 inches extra cloth the whole way around for now. The test pinning(sorry, no pictures of that because I was in my underwear) seems to show that this will be a perfect fit. So that tutorial and all my measurements and calculations really paid off.



The only real problem area might be the crotch where the three seems are going to meet. I still haven't decided yet to separate this base into sections of top and bottom, but I might have to just to get it on and off, we'll see.

 

[tlither]

I have no contributions to make but I'm waiting to see how this turns out for you.

 

[23Magnum]

Thanks man. I'll hopefully be doing some of the sewing tonight.

 

[noName]

once you have this all sewed how are you going to get into it? i mean like are you going to use a zipper and where are you going to put it so its hidden?

 

[23Magnum]

If it has a zipper, it'll be the back seam. I have been thinking of a way to do without the zipper, but it would require making a top and bottom half for the suit.

 

[noName]

if you were to put a zipper up the back wouldnt that break up the details there?

 

[23Magnum]

if you were to put a zipper up the back wouldnt that break up the details there?

Which is why I've been contemplating the other way. I can't think of an easy way to keep the details and still have the zipper, but I'm sure something will pop into my head then.

 

[noName]

how did other people with good undersuits make theirs? ive been pondering how i will make mine too....

 

[23Magnum]

Most of what I've seen has been piece together BMX/Paintball gear. I think Adam uses a pressure suit of some sort, but don't quote me on that. Blue Realm did an awesome job on his with parts molded in rubber and other parts sewn. Not entirely sure about anyone else's.

 

[RedTogusa]

Hey Mags, it's looking good so far.
I don't know if it's of any help to you on idea's but I've started working on an undersuit. Got the neck part and the bit inbetween the toe and heel part of the boots done so far.

Best way I've found so far, not having the same facilities as Bluerealm to do shaped rubber ect, is to do a template, as you've done, and then use leather cloth with wadding behind to give bulk. If there's a problem with flexablity my thought would be to do the undersuit in sections, say the belly part as one section, shoulders as another ect. Then velcro them to something flexy and breathable, even something as basic as say, a black T-shirt. Obviously your armor would hide the parts that the leather sections don't cover.
I don't know if this makes any sense or if it helps at all.
Anyways keep up the good work. I think the undersuit is the part of MC that has so far been neglected a little. It's nice to see some springing up here and there. Although Devin's gone and raised the bar far too high for my liking.

 

[23Magnum]

Yeah that's pretty much what I had in mind if I was to piece the suit apart, but instead of just a plain t-shirt I was thinking some sort of elastic type material like the "Under Armor" sportswear is made out of. Did you use just regular cotton wads for the bulk? I got some high density foam to use for certain sections of the details, but I'm not entirely sure it'll work. That's an after thought though for me.

I agree about the undersuit being a neglected part of the costume, and yes Devin's version is crazy good.