making my 6th costume! this is going to be a pain in the butt


Asgardianhammer

Identity Officer & RCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Member DIN
S113
sax092 even small singular pieces gives us some idea of how we as a community can give you feedback. We all see a lot of posts about the parts you are looking for to build and you asking lots of questions and we all really want to provide you with constructive feedback but without seeing your progress on anything we all are shooting blindly to give you any advice on any level to help you advance. Sharing is critical to this community thriving and growing. Who knows, you sharing the smallest of things could help someone else by the feedback others give on your builds.
 

sax092

Jr Member
sax092 even small singular pieces gives us some idea of how we as a community can give you feedback. We all see a lot of posts about the parts you are looking for to build and you asking lots of questions and we all really want to provide you with constructive feedback but without seeing your progress on anything we all are shooting blindly to give you any advice on any level to help you advance. Sharing is critical to this community thriving and growing. Who knows, you sharing the smallest of things could help someone else by the feedback others give on your builds.
ok well a helmet I made a little while back
1633466454112.jpeg
I have painted it better since and will post a pic the second I get the chance
 

Asgardianhammer

Identity Officer & RCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Member DIN
S113
Now, this is very helpful sax092 ! Thank you first and foremost for sharing!
So two very immediate things I can tell you that will help.
One: sharpen your knife blade between each cut. Foam is hell on blades after even a single pass.
Two: a great way to clean up your seams is to use a dremel with a sanding cylinder and then use another one but just use the black rubber portion without the sanding drum to burnish your edges smooth. This is a great tool. Heat seal all of your foam prior to putting it together with a heat gun.

Use latex acrylic caulk and a wet finger to fill in your seams and smooth the overall piece.
Use contact cement for gluing together (DAP Weldwood comes in a bottle brush for about 5 bucks at Walmart) brush both sides and wait for it to tack up completely before sticking edges together.
Use Hot Glue to reinforce seams from the inside.

V Notch bends and bevels on the backside of your foam to help shapes stay in place. Fill these gaps with hot glue.

These few things are a huge help. Watch Bill Doran over at Punished Props videos and Evil Ted on Youtube. Both do amazing Foam Work.

These few things will move you light-years ahead! You will get cleaner pieces in foam.
 

sax092

Jr Member
Now, this is very helpful sax092 ! Thank you first and foremost for sharing!
So two very immediate things I can tell you that will help.
One: sharpen your knife blade between each cut. Foam is hell on blades after even a single pass.
Two: a great way to clean up your seams is to use a dremel with a sanding cylinder and then use another one but just use the black rubber portion without the sanding drum to burnish your edges smooth. This is a great tool. Heat seal all of your foam prior to putting it together with a heat gun.

Use latex acrylic caulk and a wet finger to fill in your seams and smooth the overall piece.
Use contact cement for gluing together (DAP Weldwood comes in a bottle brush for about 5 bucks at Walmart) brush both sides and wait for it to tack up completely before sticking edges together.
Use Hot Glue to reinforce seams from the inside.

V Notch bends and bevels on the backside of your foam to help shapes stay in place. Fill these gaps with hot glue.

These few things are a huge help. Watch Bill Doran over at Punished Props videos and Evil Ted on Youtube. Both do amazing Foam Work.

These few things will move you light-years ahead! You will get cleaner pieces in foam.
well those tips are good but keep in mind I need tips for pepping. after all this is a pepping build. and yes I generally keep my blades sharp but I ran out and didn't want to go out and buy more
 

sax092

Jr Member
well those tips are good but keep in mind I need tips for pepping. after all this is a pepping build. and yes I generally keep my blades sharp but I ran out and didn't want to go out and buy more
also as I said this is an old build, I now prefer contact cement. though I do use hot glue when it is raining outside and I can't use the cement.
 

Asgardianhammer

Identity Officer & RCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Member DIN
S113
For Pepping I score all of my sheets before cutting them out. I also use a sharp e-xacto and straight edge to cut my pep on a small self-healing cutting mat. I pre-fold all parts first. I keep the software open to help me navigate the piece as you can click a part and it highlights to show you where it belongs. I also start on the top and work my way down. Don't get worked into a corner. Where I can I put together smaller sub-assemblies to be added to the larger part.

If you scroll through this gallery you will some of my pepakura process. Asgardianhammer - Professional, General Artist | DeviantArt

MY FAVORITE ITEM IS LOCTITE SUPER GLUE GEL. This doesn't soak into the paper and sits on the top to give you time to press pieces together. i used a small blunt point to help hold down tabs to keep my fingers from sticking to my work.
 

Asgardianhammer

Identity Officer & RCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Member DIN
S113
well those tips are good but keep in mind I need tips for pepping. after all this is a pepping build. and yes I generally keep my blades sharp but I ran out and didn't want to go out and buy more
Keep a small sharpener handy and you can make your blades last a lot longer. I have a small hand held one that has ceramic sharpening rods that was pretty cheap which is great for exacto and snap away blades.
 

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