Master Chief helmet buil using Kevlar

Templarkiller20

New Member
I need help to make an impact resistant helmet with kevlar/carbon fiber and expoy. I have a Disguise helmet from 2015. Please if anyone has tips or trick please share. I eventually plan on making a full suit out of kevlar/carbon fiber
 

Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
Not very experienced with either of those, though kevlar is similar in a lot of respects to fiberglass cloth mat. Can you give us more details about how you hope to go about actually constructing the thing?
 

Templarkiller20

New Member
To be honest i only got as far as how to mix up the silicone molding material. I don't really know where to go from there.
Im not sure if i should go ahead and make a one piece mold or make right and left side molds.
To make the helmet impact resistant i want to be around 3/4in.
 

Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
3/4 inch is pretty thick. I know kevlar fighter pilot helmets are only somewhere between 3-5 layers of kevlar pressed together.
 

Templarkiller20

New Member
True i can't recall my infantry helmet thickness. I can make a few different ones. Try one withe 3 layers of kevlar and 3 carbon fiber
One straight kevlar
One straight carbon fiber
 
I build full fiberglass suits using mat/ cloth/ roving and have some experience with carbon fiber. If you want impact resistant I'd stick to fiberglass and kevlar. Carbon fiber you could is quite brittle when it comes to impacts. And I don't exactly recommend blending different materials to form something "stronger", unless you purchased a special cloth that is comprised of carbon and kevlar.
 
Oh since you're making a helmet, it has a lot of complex shapes, angles, and contours. I'd suggest just sticking to fiberglass mat (chop strand). Gives good unidirectional strength, and the random direction of strands will help you when trying to get through those complex shapes and valleys in your helmet. 3-5 layers is good, I've made a daedric torso armor with 3 layers of mat and I beat it with a hammer and mallet till I was a bit tired, it was really hard to break.
 
Ok. Thank you on the fedback on carbon fiber. What do you recommend as a binder for the layers of kevlar
With kevlar, it's always best to use epoxy resin but yeah quite expensive but does pretty much what polyester resin does but better. I don't exactly know what would happen if you use polyester on kevlar.
 

Templarkiller20

New Member
With kevlar, it's always best to use epoxy resin but yeah quite expensive but does pretty much what polyester resin does but better. I don't exactly know what would happen if you use polyester on kevlar.
Fiberglass really is itchy, and all of these composites are in ways dangerous. That's why it's best to use proper gear with it like a respirator, gloves, coveralls, etc...Also with proper sanding and cleaning as well as padding can pretty much make fiberglass safe to wear if that's what you're also thinking.
Only one way to find out about polyester resin and kevlar do a test. I cant be any where near fiberglass
 
Only one way to find out about polyester resin and kevlar do a test. I cant be any where near fiberglass

All I know is that not using epoxy resin on kevlar or carbon fiber won't give its maximum strength. And if I'm not mistaken the fibers of kevlar and carbon fiber soak up epoxy better than polyester, so I suggest you search more into it or wait for someone with more knowledge to comment here. I think it might be a waste of money to experiment on something that might not be practical. But hey you do you!
 

Wayward Flood

Member
They have 3D printers that use a hybrid fibers for various properties and purposes. Kevlar is used for impact resistance on the printers.
 

ZiggyGrimm

New Member
Hey there, new to the forum, but I may be of significant help. A few years ago I made a full Batman suit out of fiberglass mat, carbon fiber and kevlar. I also am very sensitive to fiberglass so I've found a method that makes it much more tolerable to work with.

First, how impact resistant are we talking? The shell material should be a first step, but foam and appropriate padding would be just as important. If it is for airsoft/ paintball, it isn't as big of a deal, if it is for combat training or anything else more concussion inducing then you'll want to make sure you adequately pad it, because the shock still transfers even if the shell doesn't break. Play safe.

Fiberglass, even the mat stuff, is EXTREMELY itchy when cut and reduced to smaller fibers. You don't want it to touch your skin at all until it has been safely resined. I know that is an annoyance, but fiberglass tends to still be my starting place for reenforcing builds. It helps shape everything nicely and it is relatively cheap and can be easily cut and molded to meet your needs.

I find the key to dealing with fiberglass is to wear long sleeves at all times and tuck your sleeves into mechanic/ surgical gloves to prevent fibers getting in. Also be sure to wear a respirator while cutting the fiberglass, I know it isn't as fine as asbestos or other fibers, but you still don't want to breathe it in or get it up your nose. Trust me, this is the voice of experience, itching the inside of your nose makes you look like you are picking your nose which apparently is inappropriate to do at your wedding (that was a joke, but seriously wear a respirator).

Once you are done working in a space, be sure to clean it thoroughly to pick up any fibers. This is true regardless of what material you end up choosing. All of these fiber based cloths can be irritating to the skin, eyes, and everywhere else if left uncleaned. Working in an area with hard surfaces is your friend for fiber-work.

The same precautions should be taken with the clothes you are changing out of once you are done the work. Put them separately, shake them out outside, then submerge them in water to stop the fibers from getting airborn. Wash your clothes, clean out the washer and dryer prior to putting in new loads of non-fiberglass clothes.

I have combined carbon fiber and kevlar with fiberglass too. Carbon fiber should only really be used for visual impact/ aesthetics. I second it being quite brittle. Kevlar however does a great job of increasing impact resistance/ strength. I second only needing a few layers of it though, it is tough! There is a reason they use it in bulletproof vests and fighter pilot helmets. It also isn't exceptionally cheap.

The other key, is choosing the right resins. Your weave is only as strong as the resin that binds it and not all resins are created equal. You'll have to do your research on resins to determine exactly what you need (strength, clarity, flexibility, etc.). For my non-visual parts I just used automotive resin/ bondo. For my carbon fiber I used special highly clear resin created for that exact purpose (it isn't strong or flexible, just very clear and pretty).

Let me know if you have any questions, looking forward to seeing your progress and sharing mine (I'm building an Infinite style suit with carbon fiber accents... it is going to be like a sports car and John 117 had a baby).
 

Cadet

Executive Officer & RCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Hello ZiggyGrimm. So, this thread has gone just about six months without any updates or posts, and the thread's creator has not logged in since August of 2019. While your information is useful and helpful, in the future, try to be a little more aware of when the last posts were made in a thread and when the person who made the thread was last logged in and checking on their thread. Otherwise you push down current active threads and bury them under inactive threads from inactive members, like this one.
 

ZiggyGrimm

New Member
Hello ZiggyGrimm. So, this thread has gone just about six months without any updates or posts, and the thread's creator has not logged in since August of 2019. While your information is useful and helpful, in the future, try to be a little more aware of when the last posts were made in a thread and when the person who made the thread was last logged in and checking on their thread. Otherwise you push down current active threads and bury them under inactive threads from inactive members, like this one.
Apologies, I'm very new to all of this. I didn't even know those items were things that could be checked, I just saw the topic and thought I could help/ thought it might help others that might be interested in this topic. I'll be sure to keep that in mind going forward.
 
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