Melting Plastic

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Bigwillie5

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Im just curious, before i actually do this, would melting plastic in a crucible in a controlled enviroment and then pouring it into a pep model work? or would it be toxic and i shouldnt try it. i would probably try using plastic bottles or other recyclable plastics. ill need to know this before something dangerously stupid happens.

also if this is possible should i try it?
 
I'm willing to bet it's dangerously stupid. I don't know the reactons that go on, but it'll be nasty....
 
Well, for starters, it's damn hard to get a controlled flow of HDPE or LDPE (The plastic of bottles), and it likes to burn when it melts. (In my experience)



Also, the fumes are dangerous, and the final product is very, very brittle. Not at all worth it, dude.
 
It would be hard to control appropriately, as well as allthe other toxicity concerns. Plastics are somewhat complex chemicals, and the heat may change the structure of the molecule- you may not end up with the product you want. If you have the right materials, the right safety equipment and steady enough hands to keep molten plastic off your skin, go for it. Otherwise, it's not a good idea.
 
k good this is what i wanted to know, ill have to look for another way to fill what im building, other than expanding foam
 
Two words - Bad idea



The others above have already made the points but I want to know what exactly are you building? armor? stiffening a weapon?



Depending on the size using the rondo mix with more resin than Bondo will yield a very pourable mixture that will also permeate the paper to make the entire model sand able. Granted mixing large quanities of bondo and resin is also a great way to fume/burn ones self... or securely adhere your patio char to your patio :unsure .
 
lol my bad it was an idea for a weapon but its a good thing im asking now before i do anything and i dont think bondo is good for this type of application
 
If you want to fill a weapon/armor piece with plastic, try smooth on plastic.



It's very simple to use.



The trial kit is very cheap and should give you enough plastic to harden you're piece nicely.



-Pony
 
There are two types of plastics: thermoplastics and thermosetting polymers. Thermoplastics will soften and melt if enough heat is applied; examples are polyethylene, polystyrene, polyvinyl chloride and polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)[4]. Thermosets can melt and take shape once; after they have solidified, they stay solid.



Most your plastic bottles or other recyclable plastics include this:

1. PET (PETE), polyethylene terephthalate: Commonly found on 2-liter soft drink bottles, water bottles, cooking oil bottles, peanut butter jars.

2. HDPE, high-density polyethylene: Commonly found on detergent bottles, milk jugs.

3. PVC, polyvinyl chloride: Commonly found on plastic pipes, outdoor furniture, siding, floor tiles, shower curtains, clamshell packaging.

4. LDPE, low-density polyethylene: Commonly found on dry-cleaning bags, produce bags, trash can liners, and food storage containers.

5. PP, polypropylene: Commonly found on bottle caps, drinking straws, yogurt containers.

6. PS, polystyrene: Commonly found on "packing peanuts", cups, plastic tableware, meat trays, take-away food clamshell containers

7. OTHER, other: This plastic category, as its name of "other" implies, is any plastic other than the named #1–#6, Commonly found on certain kinds of food containers, Tupperware, and Nalgene bottles.



The issue is you can't just melt them into a liquid and poor. They have to be maintained at a correct temperature during the molding phase first off. Without the proper venting (not for fumes) and heating, your plastic in just burn. Your looking at melting points of 250 to 350 or more. In order to achieve the best results you have to maintain that temperature, which you have to know in the first place. Most plastic bottles are done by extrusion blow molding. The plastic have a viscosity of peanut butter than a liquid so there is no way you can slush cast it. They have to be injected by #-Ton press. Also you can't just remelt and get the same properties of the old plastic. New, unused and to be combined with recycled, about a 5 to 10 percent.





So my advice: Just forget the idea. Sounds like a good idea, but trust me it is not.
 
dont use plastic bottles that are melted down.. toxic and can cause a fire on touch with paper... a friend did that for an experiment to fix a plastic cup.... not fun not worth the trouble.. smooth on products or fiberglass stuff is your safer route.
 
JediStumpy said:
There are two types of plastics: thermoplastics and thermosetting polymers. Thermoplastics will soften and melt if enough heat is applied; examples are polyethylene, polystyrene, polyvinyl chloride and polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)[4]. Thermosets can melt and take shape once; after they have solidified, they stay solid.



Most your plastic bottles or other recyclable plastics include this:

1. PET (PETE), polyethylene terephthalate: Commonly found on 2-liter soft drink bottles, water bottles, cooking oil bottles, peanut butter jars.

2. HDPE, high-density polyethylene: Commonly found on detergent bottles, milk jugs.

3. PVC, polyvinyl chloride: Commonly found on plastic pipes, outdoor furniture, siding, floor tiles, shower curtains, clamshell packaging.

4. LDPE, low-density polyethylene: Commonly found on dry-cleaning bags, produce bags, trash can liners, and food storage containers.

5. PP, polypropylene: Commonly found on bottle caps, drinking straws, yogurt containers.

6. PS, polystyrene: Commonly found on "packing peanuts", cups, plastic tableware, meat trays, take-away food clamshell containers

7. OTHER, other: This plastic category, as its name of "other" implies, is any plastic other than the named #1–#6, Commonly found on certain kinds of food containers, Tupperware, and Nalgene bottles.



The issue is you can't just melt them into a liquid and poor. They have to be maintained at a correct temperature during the molding phase first off. Without the proper venting (not for fumes) and heating, your plastic in just burn. Your looking at melting points of 250 to 350 or more. In order to achieve the best results you have to maintain that temperature, which you have to know in the first place. Most plastic bottles are done by extrusion blow molding. The plastic have a viscosity of peanut butter than a liquid so there is no way you can slush cast it. They have to be injected by #-Ton press. Also you can't just remelt and get the same properties of the old plastic. New, unused and to be combined with recycled, about a 5 to 10 percent.





So my advice: Just forget the idea. Sounds like a good idea, but trust me it is not.



Oh no dont worry im not gonna do this it was just an idea and i needed more info before proceeding
 
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Well, since nobody here seems to have tried it, I can say I have, but quite controlled though.



In my Chemistry, we were supposed to melt plastic (in special glass cabinets, with huge fans).



We tried 3 different kinds of plastic, and a small amount. We tried:



1. Bottles Plastic, like the ones you find Coca-cola in.

2. Plastic Cup piece.

3. Soft plastic, like the ones you get food, fries and such in.



Results:

A toxic black smoke is realasing from both 1,2 and 3. We had to leave the room and open all the windows (even though we had big fans that you have in a Chemistry room).

Everything melted into a black liquid, and enlighted. Number 1 was burning heavily, even though it was´nt so much.



I dont reccommend this method, we did it controlled, in a Chemistry room, with a experienced Chemistry teacher to see the effects, and it was really not a good way to strenghten armor ;)



Best Regards,

/Tahu
 
Definitely a bad idea.



The lengths to which people will go to save money astound me. All that to save $30-80 on casting resin?



1167926568946.jpg
 
quick question, the 2 liter soda bottles, can those be heated and thermoformed? Or will they just go dull? for a visor.
 
You could try bio-plastic made from starch, but it will still be dangerous.

Description here



Still interesting stuff thoug.

thank you ive seen something like this before but i wasn't able to find it so i was thinking about resorting to the method i described earlier

Well, since nobody here seems to have tried it, I can say I have, but quite controlled though.



In my Chemistry, we were supposed to melt plastic (in special glass cabinets, with huge fans).



We tried 3 different kinds of plastic, and a small amount. We tried:



1. Bottles Plastic, like the ones you find Coca-cola in.

2. Plastic Cup piece.

3. Soft plastic, like the ones you get food, fries and such in.



Results:

A toxic black smoke is realasing from both 1,2 and 3. We had to leave the room and open all the windows (even though we had big fans that you have in a Chemistry room).

Everything melted into a black liquid, and enlighted. Number 1 was burning heavily, even though it was´nt so much.



I dont reccommend this method, we did it controlled, in a Chemistry room, with a experienced Chemistry teacher to see the effects, and it was really not a good way to strenghten armor ;)



Best Regards,

/Tahu

ok thank you i dont think il want black smoke anywhere near my house, and your right it probably wouldnt be the best material for anything

Awesomeness said:
Definitely a bad idea.



The lengths to which people will go to save money astound me. All that to save $30-80 on casting resin?



1167926568946.jpg



o dont worry im a firm believer of 'better safe than sorry', thank god i found out more info. im going to research for other methods
 
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