Metal Hayabusa Helmet

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TwiztedEng

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Hello to everyone on the forums!! I just registered here, and am planning on making something from Pep plans but instead of cutting paper or card stock I plan on cutting metal and welding. Right now, it is just going to be a test to see how everything comes out and see how difficult it is to get looking right. I am heavily leaning towards the Hayabusa helmet because not only do I think it looks amazing, but I haven't see very many of them done yet. What are your thoughts? I am open to suggestions!!



-Darren
 
I think the marine would be easier to do as sort of a practice run with metal, but an all metal 'busa would indeed be a thing of beauty
 
I wish you luck, but I agree with the above post, a Halo 3 Marine helmet made from metal would be a great starting place for you. Although I have no clue what your metal work skill level is, I would highly reccomend starting with something simple, and working your way up the ladder.



Again, I wish you the best of luck, and hope to see some progress soon.



Cheers!
 
first off welcome to the 405th. it would be a crazy epic project if you did pull it off. i would also say start small and work your way up but then again i dont know how much skill yous got. im guessing you are going to use sheet metal or aluminum sheets ?
 
Personally this seems like a very doable project. But if you are going to use sheet metal/aluminum, its going to be hard as hell. The Hayubusa Armor has those flame looking things coming out of the back, and to make/weld this out of sheet metal is going to be a pain in the ass/ and tough as hell. I'm not saying that you dont have any skills, but it seems like something very intricate to do. If you aren't going for detail, then you could use that method, however, if you want detail, then you might want to consider the following:



What I would do is to make a mold of it from a clay sculputure (which would capture all the detail you wanted), or pepakura build that has the bondoed detail. First off make sure you have the right mold making materials, such as a wet sand mold, or a plaster mold. Then I would get a crucible, melt some aluminum cans, and then pour it into the molds.



WARNING- THIS METHOD IS EXTREMELY HOT (NO JOKE)! WITHOUT THE PROPER SKILLS OR KNOWLDGE REQUIRED, YOU COULD REALLY MESS UP YOURSELF, YOUR HOUSE, OR WHATEVER ELSE IN THE VICINITY OF THIS PROJECT.



I know there is a lot more danger involved, however, it seems easier to me, especially since it will capture all of your details, 10 times better than bending and welding metal sheets.



However, it is your project, and do as you wish, just be cautious with whichever path you chose.



Super-Ang



This is a very basic description of what I would do, if you want more details, just ask me or PM me.
 
Wow! Lots of replies so far, and some good advice too! Thanks to all! As far as the "start off easy" concept, I agreee and disagree (and I have been back and forth a hundered times as to which way to go too). I agree because I don't want to get so involved that it gets frustrating and I don't have the time to finish it. BUT I also disagree because I don't want to have to do three or more of these only to find out that some complex part in the end just isn't feasable. I'd rather find that out the first time around. Either way, I'm thinking that I will cut medium thickness mild steel plate (probably 14 ga or so) and weld the pieces together, then grind the welds down so it appears smooth. No matter what I do it will be tough for sure, but I think in the end it will be completely bad-ass... Any More Thoughts??
 
Welcome to the 405th! It sounds like a great idea, I considered something along those lines as well at first, but the cost was too high. I wish you the best of luck, hopefully it turns out great!



Maybe you could do the general shape of the helmet's intricate parts then add bondo to add the detail. Thats what I do with my pep pieces, it may work with your welding.



Looking forward to what you have to show!
 
Schaeden said:
how you going to go about cutting out all the small details and such?



Well, I own a shop where we cut steel bracketry with a CNC machine for off road vehicles, and I obviously have access to that machine if I need it. I am planning on exporting a PEP file, removing the "tabs" and then converting and sending that file to the CNC machine to cut the peices with accuracy. Then I should be able to weld everything together, clean the welds, and have a masterpeice! (like that will happen the first time, right?!) Well, we'll see how it goes at least...



I will definitely post pics as I start the project...



-Darren
 
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Okay, so I fooled around with the Pep file today of the Hayabusa helmet by SKUPILKINSON (very badass I might add!) and made some progress with the file conversion - actually was not anywhere near as difficult as I originally thought! Here are the first few pics...



1. The Original Pep file by SKUPILKINSON:
main.php




2. The Original Pep file as it would normally be printed on paper:
main.php




3. The file converted to a DXF (CAD file) and then the "tabs" removed:
main.php




4. The DXF file after removing the bend lines, leaving me with an exact outline of the pieces that need to be cut:
main.php




Hope this will get you guys all interested in the project too! I hope to work on it over the weekend and get all the little pieces converted to CNC cut paths and laid out on a sheet of steel in the CNC's software. If I can get that far this weekend I might even pick up some steel Monday!



-Darren
 
you should have said that you had access to a cnc from the start that makes this project so doable it cant wait to see it all welded up
 
papasmurf said:
you should have said that you had access to a cnc from the start that makes this project so doable it cant wait to see it all welded up



Haha, yeah I probably should have mentioned that, but then there wouldn't be any mystery :)
 
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Unless you cut each polygon out separately you will have to fold or curve it. Do you have a way of doing that? Doing it polygon by polygon WOULD work, but it would take forever.
 
I was thinking the same thing as you, "If people fold this out of paper, why not use metal?" My hunch is that all the folds would create a very rigid and strong finished piece, even if you use very thin metal. I was suprised, after some searching, that it hadn't been attempted much before.



You said some very strange things though.



First, why cut the tabs off? If you are really into fabrication, you should know that butt-welding sheetmetal is impossible at worst, or a royal pain at best (even if using TIG). Leave the tabs on, and you'll be able to withstand a little bit of the weld "eating" at the edge, because it will be hidden, as long as you don't blow through the flat face that the tab contacts. That way you'll only need to tack pieces together (which will still be plenty strong, unless you're planning on SCA combat). Welding every connecting edge would be a nightmare.



You have access to a CNC machine? CNC what? Plasma cutter? Mill? If you have access to a CNC mill, why bother doing metal Pepakura at all? Just let the CNC machine mill the whole piece out of high density foam, if you have a 5-axis machine. If you just have a 3-axis machine, use CAD to slice the model into slabs, then machine the slabs, and stack them back up.



Either way, good luck. Can't wait to see pictures!
 
Awesomeness said:
I was thinking the same thing as you, "If people fold this out of paper, why not use metal?" My hunch is that all the folds would create a very rigid and strong finished piece, even if you use very thin metal. I was suprised, after some searching, that it hadn't been attempted much before.



You said some very strange things though.



First, why cut the tabs off? If you are really into fabrication, you should know that butt-welding sheetmetal is impossible at worst, or a royal pain at best (even if using TIG). Leave the tabs on, and you'll be able to withstand a little bit of the weld "eating" at the edge, because it will be hidden, as long as you don't blow through the flat face that the tab contacts. That way you'll only need to tack pieces together (which will still be plenty strong, unless you're planning on SCA combat). Welding every connecting edge would be a nightmare.



You have access to a CNC machine? CNC what? Plasma cutter? Mill? If you have access to a CNC mill, why bother doing metal Pepakura at all? Just let the CNC machine mill the whole piece out of high density foam, if you have a 5-axis machine. If you just have a 3-axis machine, use CAD to slice the model into slabs, then machine the slabs, and stack them back up.



Either way, good luck. Can't wait to see pictures!



Well, you are right in that the tabs might make things just a little easier to weld together, but then you would have the thickness of the material changing the height of things all over the place, and it just wouldn't look right - not to mention that the pieces wouldn't fit together properly after a few were welded. Without the tabs, everything should work together just fine. "Butt welding sheetmetal" isn't impossible, and if you were really into fabrication you would have seen that I said 14-guage sheetmetal and would know that it is plenty thick enough to weld. Most of the edges will be at fairly good angles also, so there will actually be only a few places where a flat butt weld is required. After welding I plan to grind everything smooth so that it all blends together. Yes it will be difficult, but so is papering, fiberglassing, sanding, bondo-ing, sanding, etc...



And maybe it just won't work at all, but I'm gonna give it a shot and see :) OH, and I forgot to mention that what I have is a CNC plasma table, so I can't just throw it into a nice 5-axis mill. I WISH I had something like that, but I have a very small business and things like that are far out of reach for me :(



-Darren



P.S. - Before you accuse someone of not knowing what they are talking about, please review what they said more carefully. I DO know what I am doing, and I was pretty taken aback by your response here. Sorry if I was harsh back to you.
 
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wait, whats the difference between a plasma table and a 5-axis mill they both are CNC machines and do generally the same thing right?
 
No. Plasma table will cut the pep pieces just like paper. All 2 dimensional.



A 5 axis mill can create basically anythig in 3 dimensions. It's basically a robot that cotrols a router that cuts a piece out of a solid block of material.



5 axis is the more impossible to come across. I know a few places that have them near me, but I don't think they want me to make armor on their half million dollar machine.
 
TwiztedEng said:
Well, you are right in that the tabs might make things just a little easier to weld together, but then you would have the thickness of the material changing the height of things all over the place, and it just wouldn't look right - not to mention that the pieces wouldn't fit together properly after a few were welded. Without the tabs, everything should work together just fine. "Butt welding sheetmetal" isn't impossible, and if you were really into fabrication you would have seen that I said 14-guage sheetmetal and would know that it is plenty thick enough to weld. Most of the edges will be at fairly good angles also, so there will actually be only a few places where a flat butt weld is required. After welding I plan to grind everything smooth so that it all blends together. Yes it will be difficult, but so is papering, fiberglassing, sanding, bondo-ing, sanding, etc...



And maybe it just won't work at all, but I'm gonna give it a shot and see :) OH, and I forgot to mention that what I have is a CNC plasma table, so I can't just throw it into a nice 5-axis mill. I WISH I had something like that, but I have a very small business and things like that are far out of reach for me :(



-Darren



P.S. - Before you accuse someone of not knowing what they are talking about, please review what they said more carefully. I DO know what I am doing, and I was pretty taken aback by your response here. Sorry if I was harsh back to you.



I'm not accusing you of not knowing what you're talking about, I'm stating it as a fact. You don't know. I don't know. Neither one of us has made a sheetmetal helmet, and it's the very reason we're here. What I also stated, very clearly, and after reading everything you wrote, is that I think it's unwise to leave the tabs off. I'm not trying to start a flame war, but let's be realistic about why we're talking about this in this venue.



Having the tabs on will create a sealed edge on all seams, and leave the front with a presentable edge. A quick touch with a grinder on the seams will smooth it out. Trying to weld each seam, which probably totals several hundred inches or more, is going to take dozens of hours. You didn't mention if you have access and experience with TIG welding or not. If you use MIG, welding the sheetmetal probably won't be easy, and MIG tends to eat at the edges easily. Stick or gas are probably just out of the quesiton, but could be mildly possible. And after all that work, you've still only completed the folded model. So all that pretty welding is going to be bondo'd over, despite it having taken you many times longer than it would have with paper. You will have the same issues with metal thickness regardless of which method you use, since the Pepakura software is not accounting for it.



Spot welding through the tabs is probably an even better option, if you have access to a spot welder with enough reach to get in there good.



14ga steel weighs about 3.5lb/sq-ft. A 12" sphere has a surface area of about 6 1/3 sq-ft, meaning it would weigh about 22lb. The helmet obviously isn't a sphere, but is probably somewhere in that neighborhood in terms of surface area. It could be less, because of the mask cutout, or more, because of all the varied faces. That's probably way too heavy to actually (i.e. comfortably) wear, especially when you add bondo, paint, lights, padding, etc. I would personally stay under 20ga (1/2 that weight), and maybe even under 24ga (1/3 that weight).



gingersnapples said:
wait, whats the difference between a plasma table and a 5-axis mill they both are CNC machines and do generally the same thing right?



A plasma CNC table cuts out sheetmetal the same way that you would cut out paper with an Xacto knife. They are 3-axis machines, that work in 2D. The machine can move the plasma cutter tool around the surface of the sheetmetal in two dimensions, and it uses the 3rd axis to pick the cutter up and keep a constant distance from the material.



3-axis mills are basically the same thing, only they use a rotating cutting bit, like a RotoZIP or Dremel tool. The machine can move the bit in all 3 axes (left/right, forward/back, up/down). These can cut out any 3D object, within the dimensional limits of the machine, as long as it doesn't have any undercuts (areas that are hidden when viewed from above; it could cut out a dome, but not a sphere, for example, since it can only move the bit straight down and can't get underneath the widest point to cut the skinny bottom).



5-axis mills can not only move the cutter in the 3 primary axes, but can also tilt the cutter in two more sets of directions (usually tilt forward/back, and tilt left/right). These machines can mill extremely complex parts, that include undercuts/holes/depressions in all faces. These types of machines are pretty amazing, can basically cut any 3D part you can imagine, and are usually most limited by the methods of holding/clamping the material (e.g. if you want to cut a sphere from a cube of material, where do you hold it?).



-------Edit-------

I know SCA uses helmets made of 14 or 16ga steel, so the weight is bearable. But I also looked up the weight of a military keval helmet, and they are about 4lb (when not wearing NVGs). A motorcycle helmet weighs 2-5lb ( http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-helmets/motorcycle-helmet-weights.htm ). After having worn SCA combat helms, I can tell you that you won't really want to walk around in one for any length of time. After having worn military kevlar helmets, they are much more comfortable in weight, although they can be a bit heavy when you first are getting used to wearing it for extended periods.
 
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