Props Modular Nerf Halo 2 Sniper Rifle build

FurySamurai72

New Member
Hey guys, I can't believe I didn't think to post this here to begin with! This is a very long term project. It's been in development now for a couple of months. I've been working on converting a Nerf Retaliator into the Halo 2 sniper rifle. Most of the parts are going to be 3d printed, and I haven't ordered the printer yet, which is most of the reason why I'm still in the design phase.

I wanted to get some feedback to see what you guys think! I'm designing it to make use of the "accessory rails" and the barrel and stock attachement points of the nerf blaster to create a fully modular rifle build. It will be able to be broken down for storage or transport and reassembled without any tools!

IzjH79VaYsZ_5Tx_IxDqnERDKv3S1goO6hLtKhGMzqBR5cIyTMZ4xGvbaX6Uc-vBIg_hVvljld0OwKIZ_Ze=w759-h319-no.png

I'm using the Halo 2 Anniversary sniper model as my reference. The goal here is to create a fully functional prop. I haven't started with the scope yet, or the bipod, as those are going to take some tricky design work that involves a lot more than just 3d printing.

emLL52b.png

You can see in this image all of the components I'm going to have to 3d print. The foregrip will use the accessory rail to clip on, the stock will use the stock attachment point. The barrel detaches as well. I'm going to be modifying the retaliator to bolt action (currently slide action)

PPgKiF3.png

Here you can see all the individual components. The grey piece on the grip of the retaliator is going to be a 3d printed stock stabilizing component that will be attached with screws to the retaliator grip.

4V110nkOV9wAzmxEfmc9sHh91UdHJulJ-hKuXfENzmZr7PAr2hlGhAhpm3CUFLnwISrgOlS2llCOc3SOY-=w1092-h819-no.jpg

I've done some 3d printing test fit pieces at my local library, they have a 3hr limit on prints so I haven't been able to do much more than small sections of the design to test dimensions and tolerances.
Pt8I-mYvmJ9GX6xDdQpmkicR62GusgN8mR1bOwVJ8KT9Dy9uh_UB232DnvK-EHBeG6G6RCZMNXw26Pk3hw=w1016-h819-no.jpg

test print of a small section of the foregrip, I was testing the accessory rail attachement point tolerances here. They came out really well.

So that's where I stand right now. The most complete component is the stock, and I'm still not 100% happy with the proportions yet. Next closest is the foregrip. I'll be able to print it in just 2 or 3 sections once I get my 3d printer up and running.

I'm interested in the community's feedback. What do you guys think? Do you like fully functional props? Or are the fully 3d printed, more game accurate props more desireable?

I'm doing this mostly as a personal design exercise, and something to hang on my wall and say "yeah, I designed that"
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Definitely a cool project, if you want it to be functional after the cosmetics are added you might want to up the bore of your barrel and add a tougher spring to the Retaliator along with an air restrictor removal. I've done a few NERF mods with longer barrels and unless they're air powered and well sealed there's a big drop off in NERFyness when the dart rattles around inside a long barrel.

If you're set on a Retaliator definitely boost the springs, if you're curious like me and wanted to toss a Stryfe in there you could hide an afterburner flywheel in the bipod attachment. That could just be the mad scientist in me talking though.

Your design looks awesome by the way FurySamurai72 just mind your tolerances and you'll be golden. The model looks near perfect right now and a few more surface details and you'll have a true piece to hang above your mantle.
 

FurySamurai72

New Member
Would you be willing to sell this as a mod kit? I have a the same Nerf gun and would love to convert it.
I am thinking about selling this as a kit in the future. I need to refine it, and figure out what materials I'm going to use for the barrels. I am also, as said above, going to recommend a vastly improved retaliator internals. Likely a brass breech kit. either a sleeper or a full seal, with an increased spring strength.

I do plan to sell this as a kit once I have all the models perfected.
 

FurySamurai72

New Member
Definitely a cool project, if you want it to be functional after the cosmetics are added you might want to up the bore of your barrel and add a tougher spring to the Retaliator along with an air restrictor removal. I've done a few NERF mods with longer barrels and unless they're air powered and well sealed there's a big drop off in NERFyness when the dart rattles around inside a long barrel.

If you're set on a Retaliator definitely boost the springs, if you're curious like me and wanted to toss a Stryfe in there you could hide an afterburner flywheel in the bipod attachment. That could just be the mad scientist in me talking though.

Your design looks awesome by the way FurySamurai72 just mind your tolerances and you'll be golden. The model looks near perfect right now and a few more surface details and you'll have a true piece to hang above your mantle.
I plan on doing full performance mods on the retaliator. I havent decided if I'm going to buy myself a pre made sealed breach kit, or build my own brass sleeper breech. Then I'll need to tune the length of the brass barrel, and then I was going to do a really thin plastic barrel inside the retaliator barrel extension, and some even larger ID PVC for the sniper barrel. This is going to be a really involved build and I'm really excited for it to pan out!
 

FurySamurai72

New Member
Great.......so now my son can shoot me from farther away and hurt more........Hope he doesn't read this thread, he'll want one for his next birthday. Great job though!!!
haha. I don't think you really have to worry about that. At least, not for this next birthday. Maybe for the one after that :p

This really is a long term project. I've got other 3d printing and/or nerf repainting projects that are ahead of it in priority because they're actually making me money. It will likely be more than a year until I've got a kit ready to sell.
 

FurySamurai72

New Member
Alright guys, I may be moving at a glacial rate, but I'm moving! The 3D printer is up and running and I've started printing the stock. I took a few pictures of the current work in progress. I'm going to be printing the other half of the stock tomorrow. These are prototype builds so the infill is low and I set the layer height to adaptive so it's not the best surface finish. But that doesn't matter because it Fit. Freaking. Perfectly! and on top of all that it looks awesome! The retaliator sort of resembles the SMG in its current state. But either way I'm really happy with my current progress.

onRGUWq0CXNvhyGsRmgjgK7BY3HSxwLkhqpF1B1qoFKdvkDeTSpRWm23Q02m-x_0N4I4df44Le-9yHQAnWL6pYcW=s949-no.jpg


wqINqTV8Y8V3Zs4fpcryob__LnyzzWrcZMByOolJFItzlQH2eKCJoY_f0gxfvD9JgCja8coevBYyGMWjIy=w1265-h949-no.jpg
sKNhGM5J9-ey3BoF-vAWv6dmtrApO1wRHgRgwe8PTtiuW6NKAHJF-wXIsuCiw-bppxZhD_r6-owsEGsKi-=w1265-h949-no.jpg


dQfaBMYuvzY6PN341fUEHjS72SVR-_pNfq-CJZvVoZPTsvGkNnK_A1M_5Fi54SzKzIe6SYKARTmUzhxc0C=w1265-h949-no.jpg


Stay tuned, the updates may be slow, but this project is going to be awesome.
 

Hein B107

Jr Member
Also following this. Currently working and planning some things. Also looking for someobe to help me print stuff. I dont have easy acces or finances fpr a 3d printer.

One plan is to design a odst helmet with interal structure for fans and such. But first a new pc is needed. But enough of me.

If/when you are selling this upgrade kit i would be intersted as well. Always loved the sniper rifle. :)
 

Lieutenant Jaku

Well-Known Member
Alright guys, I may be moving at a glacial rate, but I'm moving! The 3D printer is up and running and I've started printing the stock. I took a few pictures of the current work in progress. I'm going to be printing the other half of the stock tomorrow. These are prototype builds so the infill is low and I set the layer height to adaptive so it's not the best surface finish. But that doesn't matter because it Fit. Freaking. Perfectly! and on top of all that it looks awesome! The retaliator sort of resembles the SMG in its current state. But either way I'm really happy with my current progress.

View attachment 254236

View attachment 254237 View attachment 254238

View attachment 254239

Stay tuned, the updates may be slow, but this project is going to be awesome.
Looking great so far.
I know this is slightly off topic, bib I have the same printer and have trouble getting it to work, do you have any tips?
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Looking great so far.
I know this is slightly off topic, bib I have the same printer and have trouble getting it to work, do you have any tips?
In general the trick to printing is calibration. If you have feeler gauges and a spirit level you'll be ready to rock. In terms of print settings it's just a matter of getting an understanding of the specific material you're working with.
 

Lieutenant Jaku

Well-Known Member
In general the trick to printing is calibration. If you have feeler gauges and a spirit level you'll be ready to rock. In terms of print settings it's just a matter of getting an understanding of the specific material you're working with.
Yeah I guess calibration is my problem, the prints just never stick to the base, they say to calibrate with the height of a paper, but when it has worked for me, it has had to be shorter. And also the problem is I an not very patient.
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Yeah I guess calibration is my problem, the prints just never stick to the base, they say to calibrate with the height of a paper, but when it has worked for me, it has had to be shorter. And also the problem is I an not very patient.
The paper method I always found spotty since calibration is tied to layer height and first layer settings in your slicer. With a feeler gauge you can set your z offset accurately to 0.06mm/0.1mm/0.2mm or whatever your preference is and work from there and use that distance as your first layer height. Also depending on your slicer you can change first layer speeds and temperatures.
 

Lieutenant Jaku

Well-Known Member
The paper method I always found spotty since calibration is tied to layer height and first layer settings in your slicer. With a feeler gauge you can set your z offset accurately to 0.06mm/0.1mm/0.2mm or whatever your preference is and work from there and use that distance as your first layer height. Also depending on your slicer you can change first layer speeds and temperatures.
Thanks I'll be sure to try this
Edit: would just buying a .1 mm (or other height) peice of metal work for a feeler gauge?
 

FurySamurai72

New Member
Charizard, that's great! I'm totally going to pick one of those up. I took the wasteful and lazy way out, I level the bed with a piece of paper and then I ALWAYS use a raft. The raft is 3 or 4 layers of thicker material that the print sits on. I have only had one failed raft so far. I find that the biggest thing is making sure your extruder steps are calibrated correctly. When I have extrusion dialed in correctly all my prints stick really well. I also clean the build plate material with isopropyl just before starting every print.
 

CakProps

New Member
Looks great so far, any new updates?
I’m actually going to do a similar mod, but I’m being risky and doing a bullpup version of the retaliator with some crazy mods. Hopefully it will look like the dmr when I do it, and I got it all planned out so it should work.
Ah 3d printing, with it, the only boundaries are our imaginations, and extreme heat :)
 

FurySamurai72

New Member
You can even raise the bar with the Heat if you print in PETG. It's expensive and finicky and frustrating but I've got this translucent blue PETG from eSun that is just absolutely gorgeous when printed. It is going to make a fantastic Cortana whenever I get around to it.

But back to the topic at hand, no, no more updates at this time. I've actually just started back to work. All of my product development, for Halo props and nerf mods for my etsy shop, has been put on hold for the time being. I've got enough product that I'm still generating some income, and I've left my painted BoomCo Halo Magnums posted, but I just don't have the time to be working on new products and getting started at work.

I WILL Finish this project, it's going to be amazing, and I'm so excited for it, and this was more or less the entire reason for purchasing the 3d printer. There will be updates, they just will not be timely.

Altho I will attach a picture of the completed stock prototype. The final version needs some tweaking, a better retension system (I'm thinking 2 set screws) and some finer details that are in the modle that I left out. But it looks DAMN good if you ask me. I still need to tweak the joining part that will mount to the bottom of the grip, so just imagine that that is filled in:

5ciRRTG1rmkzuAX5-pptH12tkVJbLba_YkZ-hjuwQGsA4chI6jMzHLkg7Hy1-9c1Ag8jnVHiKy8Conbg0k=w1920-h683-no.jpg
 
Top