mud glassing??????

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geoat2t

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i saw a vid on mud glassing and im just wondering what is better mud or fiber glassing? i really want my helmets to be strong and long lasting.so if any1 have any input please drop 1 here thanx
 
as long as you never actually do anything physically demanding with your helmet both methods work fine.
 
They are about the same. Mudglassing is just laying fiberglass into rondo (resin and bondo mixed) instead of just straight resin. I prefer mudflassing because slushing rondo gives you a more stable layer if you sand through the pep, you aren't sandin through fiberglass, but through rondo instead. I find it much simpler.
 
ohh ok ..... are the weight of the melmet the same??? i think imma make tut vid on mud glassing.....what u think?
 
are the weight of the melmet the same???

No. Rondo is very heavy when its builds up.

both work really well. Its a matter of personal preference. Fiberglass will only break in th areas you dont overlap or around the edges you missed. That layer of rondo gives a little extra protection. But as long as you dont plan on drop kicking it, normal fiberglass will do and its cheaper too.
 
If mudglassing uses resin+bondo on the inside and then a layer of fibreglass, whereas traditionally tou would use resin+fibreglass on the inside and bondo on the outisde, wouldnt that make them both about the same weight and cost the same too?

Another quick question... is the fibreglass cloth necessary when mudglassing? Thanks!
 
If mudglassing uses resin+bondo on the inside and then a layer of fibreglass, whereas traditionally tou would use resin+fibreglass on the inside and bondo on the outisde, wouldnt that make them both about the same weight and cost the same too?

Another quick question... is the fibreglass cloth necessary when mudglassing? Thanks!

The "layer of Bondo" after fibreglassing isn't really a "layer of" Bondo. You only use it if and where necessary to detail the shape of the model and it serves no structural purpose. The fibreglass carries all the weight, and the resin holds it together. Rondo on the other hand is basically just resin, which is a lot weaker without fibres, so you need a lot more. Read up on reinforced plastics if you don't understand the principle.
The benefit for you in using Rondo is that it's easier to work with, throwing in some additional fibreglass (which is the difference between rondoing and mudglassing) pretty much removes all the advantages and gives you a combination of the disadvantages.

Yes, fibreglass is necessary for mudglassing, that's why it's called mudglassing. You can use Rondo without adding fibres, but then it's not called "mudglassing".
 
if you dont want to try adding layers of glass in after you slush the rondo, look for something along the lines of bondoglass or something like that. they sell it at walmart and its perfect for mudglassing, but not good for detailing, thats just my two cents
 
The "layer of Bondo" after fibreglassing isn't really a "layer of" Bondo. You only use it if and where necessary to detail the shape of the model and it serves no structural purpose. The fibreglass carries all the weight, and the resin holds it together. Rondo on the other hand is basically just resin, which is a lot weaker without fibres, so you need a lot more. Read up on reinforced plastics if you don't understand the principle.
The benefit for you in using Rondo is that it's easier to work with, throwing in some additional fibreglass (which is the difference between rondoing and mudglassing) pretty much removes all the advantages and gives you a combination of the disadvantages.

Yes, fibreglass is necessary for mudglassing, that's why it's called mudglassing. You can use Rondo without adding fibres, but then it's not called "mudglassing".
I understand the concept behind GRP, I think just overestimated how much bondo goes on the outside (Or underestimated how much goes into mudglassing)

I also thought that the glass in mudglassing referred more to its appearance, and that rondo was more plastic in nature compared with the brittle state of resin (Which i thought would make it more able to absorb shocks). Cheers for the help though!

if you dont want to try adding layers of glass in after you slush the rondo, look for something along the lines of bondoglass or something like that. they sell it at walmart and its perfect for mudglassing, but not good for detailing, thats just my two cents
I don't really have a problem with firbreglass, I just wanted a simpler way of adding it in, or eliminating the need for it alltogether. I think I'll just stick with normal fibreglassing when I get round to it. On a related note, is it possible to mix thousands of strands of fibreglass cloth in with the resin before coating the inside, or would it be almost as weak as usin none at all?
 
You mean loose strands, not strand mat? Like making a fibreglass and resin soup? What sort of gsm would you recommend, because in the UK they range from 280 to 600gsm?
 
You mean loose strands, not strand mat? Like making a fibreglass and resin soup? What sort of gsm would you recommend, because in the UK they range from 280 to 600gsm?

Yes, completely loose. Chopped fibres don't have a surface area (well, theoretically they do, but you know what I mean), so there's no point in measuring weight per area (i.e. g/m²) :)

There are different lengths (6 mm in my case, I've also seen 3 mm and 12 mm) and they come in a bag of a certain weight or volume. Looks like this. I also add cotton flocks to make it more gooey and a thixotropic agent wouldn't hurt to make it stick to walls even better.

If you want to go with cloth or mat, get the 280 g/m² type. Heavier ones are stronger, but less flexible and you'll need the flexibility for certain areas of your models.
 
all right i hope this isn't a stupid thing i did but i apply rondo on the inside on of my thigh armor without putting fiberglass cloth, it kinda collapsed sort of but my leg can still fit in it,

did i mess up?

i think i should have used a paint brush and applied a light layer of rondo
 
If you want to go with cloth or mat, get the 280 g/m² type. Heavier ones are stronger, but less flexible and you'll need the flexibility for certain areas of your models.

Thanks... that'll help a lot especially on high res modes likr the gauntlets. I might try and fill any crevices with sonething like bondo or an extra few layers of resin if the fibreglass mat wont cover it. I might also do a comparison with the chopped strands and matting on my handplates, and see which I prefer.
 
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