my first halo 4 helmet

[csa2k3]

my first halo 4 helmet, was made from a ctc 3d printer with abs plastic ,but i think i could use some help on it would be great

 

[Blondiebot]

Looks great! I did my first halo helmet today in foam, didn't look nearly as nice.

 

[Lazarus215]

looks great! you throwing LED's in the sides? also, I'd recommend doing a little friction welding on the major seams to try and close up some of that gap. it's a bit more work, but it pays off on the final product.

 

[ODST Stryder]

Looks great csa2k3!

looks great! you throwing LED's in the sides? also, I'd recommend doing a little friction welding on the major seams to try and close up some of that gap. it's a bit more work, but it pays off on the final product.

Hey Lazarus215, what would you say the best 3D printer is for this type of application. I have Makerbot breathing down my neck looking to buy their Replicator 2, such not sure.

 

[Lazarus215]

Looks great csa2k3!



Hey Lazarus215, what would you say the best 3D printer is for this type of application. I have Makerbot breathing down my neck looking to buy their Replicator 2, such not sure.

Honestly, it all depends on what youre looking for. Do you want build volume? low price? ability to modify it?

Personally, I find that if you want all 3, you go with a Folgertech Prusa i3 with the aluminum 2020 frame. You can increase the build volume to whatever you damn well please with the purchase of a new hot plate and some easily ordered aluminum beams, and smooth and threaded rods. it's a DIY kit that totals about $280, but with some basic upgrades (new RAMPS and Megaboard, upgraded hotend, and a glass plate) it'll run you about 310-350 depending on how crazy you go with a hotend. the base build volume is 200x200x175, so it's decent, but again, you can upgrade very easily.

 

[ODST Stryder]

Honestly, it all depends on what you're looking for. Do you want build volume? low price? ability to modify it?.

Thank you, Lazarus! I think you've sold it to me.

 

[Lazarus215]

I aim to please. The setup of it can suck a bit, and you're going to have to figure out all the code for it, but I recommend going with the Repetier Firmware. it has really nice integration with z-probe bed levelling. once its all set up and all the kinks are out of it, you're good to go for long periods of time. the only thing that sucks is that each time you close repetier (the actual application) you need to re-run your auto bed-levelling wizard. the whole ordeal for that takes about 5 minutes, providing there are no errors.. (And something it wont tell you is that once you've homed all your axis, raise your Z axis up by the length of your probe arm to prevent your actual Z-endstops from getting triggered, resulting in an error, and making repetier slam your Z carriage into the top of your frame... also. the folgertech base firmware comes with a wrong value in steps/mm on the Z axis. its set at like 3840, should be 4000... yay trial and error!)

 

[Lazarus215]

Here is what it'll look like. (still have the original extruder on, only addition was the glass plate and paperclips holding it on)

 

[csa2k3]

iam getting ready to get the light for it and i do need to do some body work on it before i get the lights put in , in one spot their a hole i need to patch before i can get to paint