Spartan 161
Member
lol will do S1l3nt V1p3r.S1l3nt V1p3r said:
Thanks Sean Bradley, I just wanted to give something back to the site that has given me a new hobby.Sean Bradley said:
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Props My Weapons Build Thread (tutorial)
- Thread starter Spartan 161
- Start date
- Status
Spartan 161
Member
Now since there is no questions on to Part 5
MA5K build ver2 Part 5
Ok now we take the forearm and the plastic insert piece like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8490.jpg
Glue it in place like pictured below.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8491.jpg
Once the piece has set up we then take the forearm and do a test fit. In my build here I found that the rear tabs overlapped the back plate where the trigger goes just a bit. So in this case I will remove these tabs.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8492.jpg
Tabs removed.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8493.jpg
Ok now take the forearm and glue it in place. Use of some good old fashioned rubber bands at this point is a major labor saver. I used super glue all around the forearm. Now set it aside to dry up.
Now while the forearm glue up is drying we take the plunge into the sculpy part of the build. Consider this a mini tutorial on how to use sculpy to make parts for your builds. First off we get together all we will need as pictured below.
Pictured above
Pasta machine
Mold maker (only needed if you plan on making more than one copy of your work)
Clay blade
Super sculpy (or any thermal baked clay)
Clay softener (sometimes needed to soften clay that’s been sitting for a while)
A small container of cornstarch and a brush to apply it. (only needed if you plan on making molds and using them.
What’s not pictured is a sheet of glass or metal to work on and then bake the clay on. Also a small toaster oven with thermometer. Sorry guys.
Alternate tools are as follows.
A clay extruder, this will allow you to make cylindrical, half round and a wide variety of shapes rapidly. I can’t stress enough how useful this tool is. You can form the parts for this build without it but it’s a pain.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8497.jpg
Ok let’s say you don’t want to buy a clay pasta machine. Understandable they are a bit pricey and you may not want to invest that much in your clay tools. Not to worry there is a cheap alternative. Take a metal or plastic tube and just put some rubber O-rings on the ends to act as spacers. This can be used to roll out your clay evenly, Note do not use wood the clay will stick to it.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8496.jpg
Ok in short form the parts for your build and then bake them according to the instructions on the box. If you want to make copy’s then you will have to use the mold maker to make molds of these and that’s where things get tricky. Pictured below is something I made for this demonstration.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7534.jpg
Take you’re formed baked pieces dust them with the corn starch and lay them on your glass or metal surface, this is your release agent.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7538.jpg
Then take some mold maker and work it in your hands until it is malleable, then press it firmly over your baked piece like so. The reason I like to use glass is because I can then pick this up and look at it from below to see if I have to work the sides in closer and avoid air pockets.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7539.jpg
Ok now here comes the real secret to making a good mold. We take sheet of glass and all and put it in the freezer for 15 minutes. This hardens the mold maker. Once 15 minutes is up we take it out of the freezer and gently pry it apart. Pay attention you don’t want to distort the mold be patient. You will end up with a look like this.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7540.jpg
Next we take the mold and bake it (face down to avoid warpage) according to directions on the box. Once you have a cured mold using it is simple. You just use your corn starch to dust the inside of it.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7545.jpg
Then press your sculpy into it firmly like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7546.jpg
Then put it in the freezer for 15 minutes. After the time is up take it out and pop the sculpy out of the mold like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7548.jpg
Then use your clay blade to cut the part off from the excess while it is still cold and firm. This will help keep the formed part from distorting to much. Fix up the part and bake it according to the instructions of the box. So that’s how to make a mold and use it in sculpy in a nut shell. Now back to the build.
Using my old molds from my first MA5K build I made the following pieces.
Trigger
Safety buttons
Magazine release
Bolt carrier
Below is some pictures of the pieces being made. Note you’re getting a sneak peek at the moveable action, charging handle.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8470.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8467.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8468.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8471.jpg
Ok these pieces are baked according to directions on the box. Once all cured sand the pieces to final shape. Then take the circles and glue them together with super glue. These are the circle pieces that go on the side of the HUD.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8473.jpg
Please read this carefully. If you have questions please do not quote this entire post. Just copy and paste the relevant area. I will do my best to clear up any questions you may have before continuing with this tutorial. Let’s keep this thread as orderly as possible. Thank you for your cooperation.
MA5K build ver2 Part 5
Ok now we take the forearm and the plastic insert piece like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8490.jpg
Glue it in place like pictured below.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8491.jpg
Once the piece has set up we then take the forearm and do a test fit. In my build here I found that the rear tabs overlapped the back plate where the trigger goes just a bit. So in this case I will remove these tabs.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8492.jpg
Tabs removed.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8493.jpg
Ok now take the forearm and glue it in place. Use of some good old fashioned rubber bands at this point is a major labor saver. I used super glue all around the forearm. Now set it aside to dry up.
Now while the forearm glue up is drying we take the plunge into the sculpy part of the build. Consider this a mini tutorial on how to use sculpy to make parts for your builds. First off we get together all we will need as pictured below.
Pictured above
Pasta machine
Mold maker (only needed if you plan on making more than one copy of your work)
Clay blade
Super sculpy (or any thermal baked clay)
Clay softener (sometimes needed to soften clay that’s been sitting for a while)
A small container of cornstarch and a brush to apply it. (only needed if you plan on making molds and using them.
What’s not pictured is a sheet of glass or metal to work on and then bake the clay on. Also a small toaster oven with thermometer. Sorry guys.
Alternate tools are as follows.
A clay extruder, this will allow you to make cylindrical, half round and a wide variety of shapes rapidly. I can’t stress enough how useful this tool is. You can form the parts for this build without it but it’s a pain.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8497.jpg
Ok let’s say you don’t want to buy a clay pasta machine. Understandable they are a bit pricey and you may not want to invest that much in your clay tools. Not to worry there is a cheap alternative. Take a metal or plastic tube and just put some rubber O-rings on the ends to act as spacers. This can be used to roll out your clay evenly, Note do not use wood the clay will stick to it.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8496.jpg
Ok in short form the parts for your build and then bake them according to the instructions on the box. If you want to make copy’s then you will have to use the mold maker to make molds of these and that’s where things get tricky. Pictured below is something I made for this demonstration.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7534.jpg
Take you’re formed baked pieces dust them with the corn starch and lay them on your glass or metal surface, this is your release agent.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7538.jpg
Then take some mold maker and work it in your hands until it is malleable, then press it firmly over your baked piece like so. The reason I like to use glass is because I can then pick this up and look at it from below to see if I have to work the sides in closer and avoid air pockets.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7539.jpg
Ok now here comes the real secret to making a good mold. We take sheet of glass and all and put it in the freezer for 15 minutes. This hardens the mold maker. Once 15 minutes is up we take it out of the freezer and gently pry it apart. Pay attention you don’t want to distort the mold be patient. You will end up with a look like this.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7540.jpg
Next we take the mold and bake it (face down to avoid warpage) according to directions on the box. Once you have a cured mold using it is simple. You just use your corn starch to dust the inside of it.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7545.jpg
Then press your sculpy into it firmly like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7546.jpg
Then put it in the freezer for 15 minutes. After the time is up take it out and pop the sculpy out of the mold like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7548.jpg
Then use your clay blade to cut the part off from the excess while it is still cold and firm. This will help keep the formed part from distorting to much. Fix up the part and bake it according to the instructions of the box. So that’s how to make a mold and use it in sculpy in a nut shell. Now back to the build.
Using my old molds from my first MA5K build I made the following pieces.
Trigger
Safety buttons
Magazine release
Bolt carrier
Below is some pictures of the pieces being made. Note you’re getting a sneak peek at the moveable action, charging handle.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8470.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8467.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8468.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8471.jpg
Ok these pieces are baked according to directions on the box. Once all cured sand the pieces to final shape. Then take the circles and glue them together with super glue. These are the circle pieces that go on the side of the HUD.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8473.jpg
Please read this carefully. If you have questions please do not quote this entire post. Just copy and paste the relevant area. I will do my best to clear up any questions you may have before continuing with this tutorial. Let’s keep this thread as orderly as possible. Thank you for your cooperation.
sparton 110
Jr Member
Outstandind! Please tell me you are going to make molds? If not, when you release the final product, i will be straight to work on one!
Keep up the awsome work
Cant wait to see you in your *** armor holding this
Keep up the awsome work
Cant wait to see you in your *** armor holding this
Spartan 161
Member
Sorry not molding this one. However if someone were to use this method to build a weapon prop it would be more than tough enough for molding. This build will have a moving action and due to that fact molding will not be an option. Next update will have more detail on that action.SPARTAN110 said:
I cant wait to have some *** Armor holding this!
Last edited by a moderator:
Spartan 161
Member
Now since there is no questions on to part 6
MA5K build ver2 Part 6
Ok at this stage of the build we take the pep part of the build and use some spot putty to go over the jointed areas like so. It’s best to work with spot putty outside while wearing a respirator, be safe.
Now we will focus on the moveable action/ barrel assembly of this build. This is the hardest part of the build so far. First off we start with the raw materials.
½” X 36” 16ga sidewall steel tubing
3/4” X 36” 16ga sidewall steel tubing
3/8” X 36” hot rolled steel rod
Compression spring to fit over 3/8” rot rolled steel rod
1/8” roll pins
3/8” black pipe nipple as short as possible
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...n161/nipple.jpg
3/8” black pipe coupling
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S.../38coupling.jpg
I managed to get all of these raw materials at my local Tractor supply company. Lacking that you can always try your local hardware or home improvement store.
Ok next I cut a section of ½” tubing 15” long. This will be my main barrel.
The next steps are only important if you want to have a threaded barrel to attach a fake suppressor to. I realize these steps are beyond the resources of many members. My best advice is if you want this threaded barrel you can always find someone with a lathe and talk them into doing it for you. Also I don’t have many pictures for this section during the lathe work, I will add some later. So with that said onto the build.
Then I took the pipe nipple and coupling, screwed them together and then chucked them up into my lathe. I turned down the surface of the coupling until it was smooth. Then I knurled the surface of it. Then I cut it in half and squared up the ends. This is my barrel nut painted flat black
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...1/Barrelnut.jpg
Next we take the pipe nipple and bore it out with a drill bit so that the ½” steel tubing fits inside it like so. Measuring from the back of the threads to the front of the tubing we want 2 ½” of build to protrude from the end of the pep build. Then we silver solder these threads to the tubing, clean it up and end up with a barrel looking like this.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7698.jpg
Then we take the 3/8” X 36” hot rolled steel rod and cut a piece 10” long. This we insert this piece into the back (opposite side away from the barrel threading and nut) of the barrel until only 9 ½” is showing. Then we measure back ¼” from the barrel lip and drill an 1/8” hole through the barrel tubing and 3/8” hot rolled rod. Insert a 1/8” roll pin, cut to fit and finish area with a steel file.
Then we cut a 3” section of the ½” X 36” 16ga sidewall steel tubing. This is the main part of the action. We then cut a channel into the steel with a dremel. Then I cut a piece of sheet metal and attached it to the front of this piece with some screws. In hind sight I should have just welded it together. Then I drilled a small hole into it, this is the charging handle. Then I made a charging handle out of sculpy and attached it like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8472.jpg
Then I cut a 3 ¾” section of the 3/4” X 36” 16ga sidewall steel tubing. Cut some tabs out of sheet metal and welded it together. Pictured below with the sculpy bolt. This is the entire bolt carrier assembly
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8478.jpg
Next we slide the bolt carrier assembly onto the 3/8” rod area of the barrel assembly all the way to where it buts up against the barrel. We use a sharpie to make out the area on the 3/8” rod that shows the travel area of the action. Then we drill a 1/8” hole part way through the 3/8” rod. Insert a roll pin. Now we have the action with a pin in it that limits its travel. Now we slide on the spring and trim it appropriately. Then we cut a 1” piece of ½” X 36” 16ga sidewall steel tubing. Slide it onto the back of the barrel assembly against the spring. Drill an 1/8” hole all the way through this insert a roll pin and trim to fit. Now we have the assembled action mostly done. Looking something like this.
Assorted parts disassembled
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8509.jpg
Now we take the barrel assembly lay it against the pep build and lay out the lines for the charging handle cut out. Then we cut out the hole with a sharp blade and finish the hole with some small files.
Now we disassemble the action. Take the sculpy bolt carrier and round out the back side of it with a dremel and sand paper until it fits flush against the ¾” surface of the steel like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8478.jpg
Then we insert the barrel with the 3/8” rod still attached into the pep build. When it gets back to the rear receiver we slide on the bolt carrier. We then line up the sculpy bolt with the ejection window and tape it in place like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8476.jpg
Top view
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8475.jpg
Now we take the bolt carrier and barrel out of the pep build. Take the bolt carrier with the sculpy bolt still taped to it and super glue it in place. Remove the tape, take some spot putty and go along the top and bottom of the sculpy bolt. Once it is set up will have a part view like below.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8480.jpg
Then we sand it down and prime it.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8481.jpg
Then paint it flat black
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8482.jpg
Now while that is drying we take the barrel cover the threads with masking tape and paint it with your color choice. I used Rustoleum Hammered black
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8512.jpg
After it is dry slide the barrel assembly into the pep build. Adding the bolt carrier spring and other parts once it gets to the back and check for fit. Modify where needed to insure smooth movement. Here is the charging handle side, note the lines drawn on the pep. This is the area I have to cut out to accommodate the full travel of the action.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8474.jpg
Please read this carefully. If you have questions please do not quote this entire post. Just copy and paste the relevant area. I will do my best to clear up any questions you may have before continuing with this tutorial. Let’s keep this thread as orderly as possible. Thank you for your cooperation.
Ok at this stage of the build we take the pep part of the build and use some spot putty to go over the jointed areas like so. It’s best to work with spot putty outside while wearing a respirator, be safe.
Now we will focus on the moveable action/ barrel assembly of this build. This is the hardest part of the build so far. First off we start with the raw materials.
½” X 36” 16ga sidewall steel tubing
3/4” X 36” 16ga sidewall steel tubing
3/8” X 36” hot rolled steel rod
Compression spring to fit over 3/8” rot rolled steel rod
1/8” roll pins
3/8” black pipe nipple as short as possible
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...n161/nipple.jpg
3/8” black pipe coupling
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S.../38coupling.jpg
I managed to get all of these raw materials at my local Tractor supply company. Lacking that you can always try your local hardware or home improvement store.
Ok next I cut a section of ½” tubing 15” long. This will be my main barrel.
The next steps are only important if you want to have a threaded barrel to attach a fake suppressor to. I realize these steps are beyond the resources of many members. My best advice is if you want this threaded barrel you can always find someone with a lathe and talk them into doing it for you. Also I don’t have many pictures for this section during the lathe work, I will add some later. So with that said onto the build.
Then I took the pipe nipple and coupling, screwed them together and then chucked them up into my lathe. I turned down the surface of the coupling until it was smooth. Then I knurled the surface of it. Then I cut it in half and squared up the ends. This is my barrel nut painted flat black
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...1/Barrelnut.jpg
Next we take the pipe nipple and bore it out with a drill bit so that the ½” steel tubing fits inside it like so. Measuring from the back of the threads to the front of the tubing we want 2 ½” of build to protrude from the end of the pep build. Then we silver solder these threads to the tubing, clean it up and end up with a barrel looking like this.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_7698.jpg
Then we take the 3/8” X 36” hot rolled steel rod and cut a piece 10” long. This we insert this piece into the back (opposite side away from the barrel threading and nut) of the barrel until only 9 ½” is showing. Then we measure back ¼” from the barrel lip and drill an 1/8” hole through the barrel tubing and 3/8” hot rolled rod. Insert a 1/8” roll pin, cut to fit and finish area with a steel file.
Then we cut a 3” section of the ½” X 36” 16ga sidewall steel tubing. This is the main part of the action. We then cut a channel into the steel with a dremel. Then I cut a piece of sheet metal and attached it to the front of this piece with some screws. In hind sight I should have just welded it together. Then I drilled a small hole into it, this is the charging handle. Then I made a charging handle out of sculpy and attached it like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8472.jpg
Then I cut a 3 ¾” section of the 3/4” X 36” 16ga sidewall steel tubing. Cut some tabs out of sheet metal and welded it together. Pictured below with the sculpy bolt. This is the entire bolt carrier assembly
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8478.jpg
Next we slide the bolt carrier assembly onto the 3/8” rod area of the barrel assembly all the way to where it buts up against the barrel. We use a sharpie to make out the area on the 3/8” rod that shows the travel area of the action. Then we drill a 1/8” hole part way through the 3/8” rod. Insert a roll pin. Now we have the action with a pin in it that limits its travel. Now we slide on the spring and trim it appropriately. Then we cut a 1” piece of ½” X 36” 16ga sidewall steel tubing. Slide it onto the back of the barrel assembly against the spring. Drill an 1/8” hole all the way through this insert a roll pin and trim to fit. Now we have the assembled action mostly done. Looking something like this.
Assorted parts disassembled
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8509.jpg
Now we take the barrel assembly lay it against the pep build and lay out the lines for the charging handle cut out. Then we cut out the hole with a sharp blade and finish the hole with some small files.
Now we disassemble the action. Take the sculpy bolt carrier and round out the back side of it with a dremel and sand paper until it fits flush against the ¾” surface of the steel like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8478.jpg
Then we insert the barrel with the 3/8” rod still attached into the pep build. When it gets back to the rear receiver we slide on the bolt carrier. We then line up the sculpy bolt with the ejection window and tape it in place like so.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8476.jpg
Top view
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8475.jpg
Now we take the bolt carrier and barrel out of the pep build. Take the bolt carrier with the sculpy bolt still taped to it and super glue it in place. Remove the tape, take some spot putty and go along the top and bottom of the sculpy bolt. Once it is set up will have a part view like below.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8480.jpg
Then we sand it down and prime it.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8481.jpg
Then paint it flat black
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8482.jpg
Now while that is drying we take the barrel cover the threads with masking tape and paint it with your color choice. I used Rustoleum Hammered black
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8512.jpg
After it is dry slide the barrel assembly into the pep build. Adding the bolt carrier spring and other parts once it gets to the back and check for fit. Modify where needed to insure smooth movement. Here is the charging handle side, note the lines drawn on the pep. This is the area I have to cut out to accommodate the full travel of the action.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh155/S...61/IMG_8474.jpg
Please read this carefully. If you have questions please do not quote this entire post. Just copy and paste the relevant area. I will do my best to clear up any questions you may have before continuing with this tutorial. Let’s keep this thread as orderly as possible. Thank you for your cooperation.
S1l3nt V1p3r
Sr Member
Love it <3
Spartan 161
Member
Thanks for your interest and support S1l3nt V1p3r
Might be a while before I post any new updates. Going to go back and get some more pictures for this last update and make it as good as the other parts. Plus I just got a used truck I am working on. Dang thing is taking up a good portion of my time, but it is turning out to be fun
Might be a while before I post any new updates. Going to go back and get some more pictures for this last update and make it as good as the other parts. Plus I just got a used truck I am working on. Dang thing is taking up a good portion of my time, but it is turning out to be fun
- Status
